M101A2 Trailer Questions

Not to hijack the thread but does anyone know where to get those lifting U-Bolts, or maybe have the dimensions of the stock units? I just bought a M101A3 and all 4 are missing. If someone could post the dimensions I could try and locate a set that might be close to stock.
Unfortunately I think the stock units are a bit beefier than what I might be able to find but I’m still searching. I’m one to, for the most part, have things as they were meant to be but I’m having a hard time locating replacements. I’ve searched eBay, etc and can’t seem to locate them. Also searching for a replacement Data Plate but I’m thinking the A3 plates have not yet been released to surplus (if that’s a thing)?

2Scout said:

Not to hijack the thread but does anyone know where to get those lifting U-Bolts, or maybe have the dimensions of the stock units? I just bought a M101A3 and all 4 are missing. If someone could post the dimensions I could try and locate a set that might be close to stock.
Unfortunately I think the stock units are a bit beefier than what I might be able to find but I’m still searching. I’m one to, for the most part, have things as they were meant to be but I’m having a hard time locating replacements. I’ve searched eBay, etc and can’t seem to locate them. Also searching for a replacement Data Plate but I’m thinking the A3 plates have not yet been released to surplus (if that’s a thing)?

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Post your needs in the parts wanted classifieds.

I'll put it the question out there and see what comes back. Thanks Tinstar.

juanprado said:

I was able to sell the complete set up to another member here. If you can pull the brackets & straps underneath for the tank along with the fuel filler and brace, You might be able to offer a package deal. The tank is a stock m37. Others have retro fitted other tank styles maybe s10 but it has been a while....

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Yep, I could do that. Still have most of the other brackets. There's ever a big plate that I think acted like a shield for the tank that was still on the trailer when I got it. (The tank had already been removed, but the plate remained).

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McGuyver said:

Yep, I could do that. Still have most of the other brackets. There's ever a big plate that I think acted like a shield for the tank that was still on the trailer when I got it. (The tank had already been removed, but the plate remained).

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Yes, There is a front mounted shield to protect the tank.

Stabilizer Leg Update... For anyone following this thread, I have been working on the stabilizer leg for my M101A2 Trailer. I finally had to mount my stabilizer leg to my backhoe trailer. Once I had it mounted, I was able to use a pipe wrench to unscrew the leg from the housing. It took a long time and with the aid of a "Torque Multiplier (aka: Cheater Bar) I was able to get the adjustable leg section to move. After about two hours, I had the adjustable leg in my hand. Here is what I found out: The adjustable portion (lower leg) of the stabilizer is approximately 16 inches long and is 1.25" OD Pipe. The very top of the adjustable leg has an unknown TPI threaded insert that is approximately .75" thick. The rest of the tube (adjustable leg) is hollow. The non-adjustable portion of the stabilizer leg is made of a 1.25" internal diameter pipe. Inside this non-adjustable portion is a long piece of threaded rod with an unknown TPI. The adjustable leg screws onto the threaded rod mounted in the non-adjustable section of the stabilizer system.

The lower leg section tightly fits into the upper section. There is very little clearance between the two pieces. I imagine the tight clearance is designed to keep out dirt and debris. However, this narrow clearance makes it very difficult to get any lubrication in between the two pieces. I think I might drill a small hole near the bottom of the adjustable section so that I can periodically inject some oil, hoping that keep the threaded rod lubricated. Your thoughts?

I seem to remember some of the legs had a lube point. If not, then drill a hole and give it a shot of lube every now and then. Cant hurt.

Both mine have a grease zert installed middle of leg.
Came from Military that way.

Put in too much grease and it will squirt out when adjusting leg.

I am not sure I am at the right place but I will ask my 2 easy questions anyway. I have an M101 trailer that had the 5 lug wheels on it. I am assuming Dodge M37 wheels. During the scrapping process I assume someone did not know that the left hand studs were reverse thread so they torched the studs off on that side. With all the mistreatment the E brake cables were torn. I have used the cargo bed on a CUCV plow truck a few years back. (Mr. Rusty.) Now I want to use the trailer frame on another project since it seems that it is well built. OK now the questions.
1.) It appears that it could easily be converted to dump. It appears like the A frame up front is hinged. Is that correct?
2.) If I remove the 5 lug hubs is it possible to purchase other hubs that would fit on the axle stubs. I want to run 6 lug 15" trailer tires. Basically I will be mounting a mobile Jaw Crusher on the frame and shortening the frame so the weight is directly over the axle and the feeder bin is accessible with a small front end loader. So can I do away with the big hubs and get hubs that will fit the axle stubs? Any information is going to be helpful. I will be using a Yanmar 10HP diesel engine on mine. Not a vehicle.

cucvrus said:

I am not sure I am at the right place but I will ask my 2 easy questions anyway. I have an M101 trailer that had the 5 lug wheels on it. I am assuming Dodge M37 wheels. During the scrapping process I assume someone did not know that the left hand studs were reverse thread so they torched the studs off on that side. With all the mistreatment the E brake cables were torn. I have used the cargo bed on a CUCV plow truck a few years back. (Mr. Rusty.) Now I want to use the trailer frame on another project since it seems that it is well built. OK now the questions.
1.) It appears that it could easily be converted to dump. It appears like the A frame up front is hinged. Is that correct?
2.) If I remove the 5 lug hubs is it possible to purchase other hubs that would fit on the axle stubs. I want to run 6 lug 15" trailer tires. Basically I will be mounting a mobile Jaw Crusher on the frame and shortening the frame so the weight is directly over the axle and the feeder bin is accessible with a small front end loader. So can I do away with the big hubs and get hubs that will fit the axle stubs? Any information is going to be helpful. I will be using a Yanmar 10HP diesel engine on mine. Not a vehicle.

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1) Not as easy of a conversion to dumping as everyone thinks, the bolts on the A-frame are there for assembly reasons, trying to use them to dump the trailer will end up causing things to break unless you modify them in some way to prevent binding/flexing, as the angles of the parts are wrong.

2)If you can find hubs that fit the axle stubs, then you can do whatever you want. I think someone might have done it here before, but I don't recall what thread it might be in.

They were only meant to be hinged/folded for transport on train or aircraft, with the "hinge" bolts loosened enough to accommodate the misalignment of the bolts. If you look closely, the bolts are not on a coincident axis to each other, so if you try to dump it, you will flex the brackets putting a lot of stress on them and they will break after a while. I looked into different hub options for my A1 axle. I never found a viable solution and in the end, it was just simpler to replace the entire axle.

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Thank you. McGuyver that is what I thought. It also looks like the least expensive way. Thank you. I am going to remove the stock axle and possibly scrap it. I was able to use every part of that scrapped trailer.

May I add that the trailer cargo bed is just setting on the frame right after removal from the trailer frame. I done a subframe on the cargo bed and leveled it out. I used the same frame holes as the stock pickup bed to mount the cargo bed to the CUCV frame. Easily removable if needed. No welds body to frame. The only connection is the fuel fill cup. All lights are in the rear bumper.