mep002aowner
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- San Jose, CA
The aux pump stopped working on my mep002a and I took it apart and freed everything up but it still wouldn't do anything more than a single click. Time for a new one, but I didn't want to pay the $200 they are presently going for on Ebay.
I found the OSIAS 24V ELECTRIC UNIVERSAL PETROL DIESEL FUEL PUMP FACET SILVER STYLE TRACTOR BOAT on Amazon for $47.99 or ~$32 on ebay. With a few simple mods, it bolts right on and works perfectly.
I left a review on amazon with the mods I made, which I am copying below. Maybe someone will find it helpful.
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1. This pump comes with two hose adapters that must be removed. One of them will not unscrew because it is too close to the electrical connection (which doesn't seem to come apart) so I had to cut the hose adapter off with a hacksaw so it could be unscrewed.
2. The outlets of this pump are 1/8" female NPT female but the mep/facet pumps are 1/4" male NPT. So I bought two 1/8" to 1/4" male to male adapters. cost: about $4.00 locally. With these in place, the existing mep connectors thread right on.
3. The bracket on this pump has holes in the same position as the facet pump, but the holes are larger and the bolt head can fit right though. I used a 1/4" flat washer on either side to cure that issue.
4. This pump comes with +/- wires that go into some type of plug. I cut the plug off and removed the negative wire by just removing a screw on the bottom that held it in place. The negative is unnecessary on a mep which uses the frame for ground. When you remove the old pump from the generator, there should be star washers under the bracket. Be sure to put these back *under* the bracket, to obtain a good ground connection. Alternatively, one could leave the ground wire on, and wire it to any good ground on the generator.
5. The positive wire must be connected to the old positive lead. In my case, I cut/spliced AFTER the round thingy, which is a capacitor that filters out some electronic noise from the pump. If your capacitor is no longer working, the DC breaker will pop when switch is set to prime. In this case, you can cut/splice the wire before it and you shouldn't miss it. Note that these capacitors are provided with the correct facet model for the generator in order to reduce radio interference/EMI, but most facet pumps are sold without them, and many people bypass them on the MEPs.
That's pretty much it.
I've only had the thing installed for an hour or so and it filled my fuel tank from the aux tank in about 10 minutes, which seems similar to what the old pump used to do. I will report back here if it fails.
oh, one other thing. I briefly opened up the bottom where the fuel strainer is, and things look very similar to the facet pump, to the extent that I imagine some or maybe all parts could be interchangeable. untested, so ymmv.
I found the OSIAS 24V ELECTRIC UNIVERSAL PETROL DIESEL FUEL PUMP FACET SILVER STYLE TRACTOR BOAT on Amazon for $47.99 or ~$32 on ebay. With a few simple mods, it bolts right on and works perfectly.
I left a review on amazon with the mods I made, which I am copying below. Maybe someone will find it helpful.
----
1. This pump comes with two hose adapters that must be removed. One of them will not unscrew because it is too close to the electrical connection (which doesn't seem to come apart) so I had to cut the hose adapter off with a hacksaw so it could be unscrewed.
2. The outlets of this pump are 1/8" female NPT female but the mep/facet pumps are 1/4" male NPT. So I bought two 1/8" to 1/4" male to male adapters. cost: about $4.00 locally. With these in place, the existing mep connectors thread right on.
3. The bracket on this pump has holes in the same position as the facet pump, but the holes are larger and the bolt head can fit right though. I used a 1/4" flat washer on either side to cure that issue.
4. This pump comes with +/- wires that go into some type of plug. I cut the plug off and removed the negative wire by just removing a screw on the bottom that held it in place. The negative is unnecessary on a mep which uses the frame for ground. When you remove the old pump from the generator, there should be star washers under the bracket. Be sure to put these back *under* the bracket, to obtain a good ground connection. Alternatively, one could leave the ground wire on, and wire it to any good ground on the generator.
5. The positive wire must be connected to the old positive lead. In my case, I cut/spliced AFTER the round thingy, which is a capacitor that filters out some electronic noise from the pump. If your capacitor is no longer working, the DC breaker will pop when switch is set to prime. In this case, you can cut/splice the wire before it and you shouldn't miss it. Note that these capacitors are provided with the correct facet model for the generator in order to reduce radio interference/EMI, but most facet pumps are sold without them, and many people bypass them on the MEPs.
That's pretty much it.
I've only had the thing installed for an hour or so and it filled my fuel tank from the aux tank in about 10 minutes, which seems similar to what the old pump used to do. I will report back here if it fails.
oh, one other thing. I briefly opened up the bottom where the fuel strainer is, and things look very similar to the facet pump, to the extent that I imagine some or maybe all parts could be interchangeable. untested, so ymmv.