MEP-803A no AC output

Has he removed the front cover and looked at the tank / fuel pump? If the unit is working until prime is lost then there has to be a leak. Does the aux fuel system work?

Hard Head said:

Has he removed the front cover and looked at the tank / fuel pump? If the unit is working until prime is lost then there has to be a leak. Does the aux fuel system work?

Click to expand...

That's my thought is there is a leak somewhere allowing the system to drain back into the tank.

Just for grins maybe remove and check the seals on the filters.

Like you all, I think it has to be a leak. But could also be the flapper in the e-fuel pump, that acts as a "check valve". It happens, but not often.

DieselAddict said:

That's my thought is there is a leak somewhere allowing the system to drain back into the tank.
Just for grins maybe remove and check the seals on the filters.

Click to expand...

Howdy,
Exactly.

Take a look at your canister filter. Make sure that little tiny gasket stayed in place on top of the cup when you re-installed it.

We are all saying this...and that.

I hope all filters were changed. Fuel cartridge filter and the fuel/water separator filter.

NOTE: after running, system itself is self bleeding. That is the sound change for the fuel pumps from a hollow sound to a full sound. All fuel pumps thru the system and back to the tank via fuel return lines.

Anything upstream of the primary pump shouldn't matter as far as drain back, and it doesn't sound like you are sucking air while running ( otherwise it wouldn't run smooth under load ) Just check from the primary electric pump to the 4 metering pumps and see if there are any issues or leaks. If everything is good and the filter and fuel / water separator are good, I'd suggest changing the fuel pump. If you still have the crappy square body pump, definitely get rid of it. An Airtex E8135 is a drop in replacement for the square pump. $35 on-line. If you have one of the round pumps with the 4" stainless extension line installed you will need some NPT x Flare adapters to make the E8135 fit.
Even with an air leak or a bad check valve in the pump, like Daybreak said, a good pump will self-bleed fairly quickly. My money says you have a failing fuel pump....
And like I said, if it's the old square body pump, get rid of it now... they are known as unreliable pieces of junk.

Howdy,

The exact fuel pump

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]MEP-802/803 fuel pump[/FONT]

Thanks all.

I borrowed a double oven today and put both ovens to bake at 400 degrees. After 2 hours and no hiccups, I turned everything off.

The generator ran great. I swapped out the analog hertz meter with a digital one and it held 240-242v at 60 hz the entire time.

The load meter still does not work though.

Here is a photo of the injectors though after I shut it down. Not sure what that might be -




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Those rubber lines coming from the fuel supply down to the injector are known to go bad. Are you sure they aren't leaking?

Looks oil to me.

I agree it looks like oil seepage from somewhere. The engine was clean and dry when I started it.

I did swap out the worthless hertz gauge though. Now also thinking about getting a digital amp/load meter.




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I would say push rod tubes would be a good place to start looking.

Could be oil coming out around the base of the pump

Guy might have nailed it. Looks like more than one is leaking