• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Deuce starting problem and solution (in this case anyway)

Sparkyz911

Active member
65
61
33
Location
Central IL USA
Hope this helps anyone with a starting problem similar to what I just experienced here.

PROBLEM AND DIAGNOSIS

Went out to start the '71 Kaiser. Flipped on the battery disconnect (its wired on ground side) and the dash master switch. Buzzer came on, gauges moved, fuel pump whirring. Hit the Big Red Button and silence. Pump and buzzer shutdown, gauges go flat. Turn off the disconnect, wait a minute and flip back on. Same thing, buzz/move/whir, hit the BRB and silence.

Pull the batteries out and test, 16v/14.5v, together read 25-26v (Batts are at least 3yo). Leave the meter on the batts and proceed with startup, meter reads 26v, hit BRB and 0v. Disconnect off, meter goes back to 26v, turn disconnect right back on and 0v. If I wait a minute or longer then flip disconnect on and 26v til I hit BRB.

After the third attempt I thought I saw very faint smoke come out from under the cab near the batt box/passenger footwell/door area. Since I was sitting center seat I couldn't see exactly from where. No signs of arcing or burns underneath. On all attempts I hear a click or pop that sounds as if its coming from the firewall/floorboard area on passenger side.

Pulled batt box and attempted 4th start attempt. Again, buzz/move/whir, hit BRB and hear click/pop but no smoke/spark/fire. Shut everything down and walked away. Come back couple weeks later (work got in the way) and start up again. THIS time ZZZ-FLASH-POP from battery.

MY SOLUTION IN THIS CASE

Since most starting issues are likely electric related problems I started with the batteries.
Batts have standard clamp style ends on the inboard end, cap style connectors with a large diameter jumper on the outboard end. The cap style had a side post for the jumper and 2 smaller bolts that press into the post (think like a ceiling fan light sconce). All 3 could be tightened to secure the "cap" to the post. Each cap also had a grease zerk (what kind of grease to use? standard? high heat? dielectric?).

Checked the inboard ends, ground of bat1 was loose, tighten, attempt to start, and ZZZZZZZ-POP-flash from bat2 outboard end again. Pull caps/jumper assembly, and see that bat2 post has some slag on it. No post meltdown yet, but will need new batts by xmas. Cleaned post, caps and reinstall. Started up as normal.

Anyone have similar experiences or solution suggestions (grease type?) please feel free to add on.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,973
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
One can weld with Deuce batteries, there is a lot of current there to be had. Refurbish both ends of every connection, make as when they were new. Ensure every cable is still as per design or heavier.
Make attachments to batteries as per design and protect the connections with something like a CRC product used on golf cart batteries. Never had a problem after that work done.

IMG_7278.jpg

image_505600_1_20411_1_124290.jpg

IMG_7273.jpg

IMG_2756.jpg

IMG_7279.jpg

IMG_2759.jpg

IMG_7278.jpg

IMG_2768.jpg
 
Last edited:

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,167
3,071
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
Alright, I am the first to admit that this is the first battery connector with a grease fitting I have ever seen in my life.
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
643
513
93
Location
Reydon, OK
First time I have seen anything like these terminals and I will not be in the market for any! I would like to ad battery cables need high quality shrink wrap installed at every terminal to seal the connection between the cable and terminal.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,973
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Follow every lead to where it is the end or the origination point, depending on how you look at it.
Pull every cable, Put new or renew and refurbish to new state every cable and connection point.
See photos post 6, it is a bunch of work and a little money, would be most well spent.
It would not be good to have a fire, that is mucho great amps you working with.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks