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Thread: 84 CUCV overcharging

  1. #11
    4 Star General Barrman's Avatar
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    I am not trying to pick a fight with any one.

    The reason I suggested replacement of the regulators is I used to think a few extra volts with no load meant no big deal I can just turn on the lights and all will be fine. One of my M1009's was always at the top of the green and 28.8-29.2 volts. One evening I went to drive home and after driving about a mile my headlights one after the other went out. These were almost new $50 Sylvania Silver Star headlights. I looked at the volt meter as part of my scan to see if something was wrong and it was well into the red.

    I stopped, turned off the truck and unplugged the two wires from the side of the drivers alternator thinking it was bad and now wouldn't charge so I could get home on high beams. I fired it up and was now in the yellow below the green. I hit the high beams and started driving. Then my high beams blew while the volt meter was back in the red once moving. I stopped again, unplugged the passenger side alternator plug and made it home on running lights and 4 way flashers.


    Never forget that the positive of the GEN 1 circuit is the ground of the GEN 2 battery.
    "If you didn't build it, you can't call it yours."

    1952 M35 W/W Gasser
    1953 M35 W/W Gasser
    1967 M715 6.2/NV4500
    1967 M416
    1971 M35A2 Whistler W/W
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1985 M1009
    1986 M105A3
    1987 M1007 Suburban (Cowdog)
    1988 M105A3
    1990 M101A2
    1991 M101A2

  2. #12
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    I appreciate the feedback. I have two complete kits ordered and will install when they show up and hopefully this situation is resolved.

  3. #13
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    Well, finally got back to installing the parts for the alternators. Installed alternators back on the truck and here are the results. Everything is the same as stated in the initial post except for the readings from the alternators (which is a good thing). Alt. 1 now puts out 14.9 at idle. Alt 2 now puts out 14.8 (at the 9 o'clock position stud) and 29.6 (at the 12 o'clock position stud). 29.6 also shows on the batteries. Inside the cab, the needle on the gauge is right on the line dividing the green and the red. If you are in the seat and look the needle is barely on the white line leaning toward the green side. So now my question is, do you think the gauge is bad or there is another problem? I would really like to get the needle in the green at the white tick mark at the top of the green scale. Thanks, all the information has really helped.

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