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Thread: M1008 Heater/Blower Motor Non-Responsive

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    Default M1008 Heater/Blower Motor Non-Responsive

    The heater/blower motor on my M1008 works on occasion. I would like it to work when I need it. This is probably a typical Chevy/GMC problem and not specifically a CUCV issue. The switch feels "Good" (not sloppy or loose), the vent controls (off/defrost/heat) seem to have the right amount of friction in movement and the cool - heat lever at the bottom of the cluster also seems to have the correct amount of friction. What do you think? What can I check? Will my voltage meter be helpful?

    If this is a redundant post, I apologize. I don't yet have the skills to adequately search the threads...

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    It is probably the connection at the blower switch up behind the control panel. You will need to remove the instrument cluster cover to access the heater control panel. That switch and connection are known for being an issue. It gets loose and makes a poor connection causing heat build up and melting the switch and plug assembly. Many GM cars trucks of the same era have that connection and switch. I used the pigtail from Oldsmobiles and Pontiacs to fix the melted connection. Nothing real special. Good Luck. Report back on your findings.
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    Thank you for the reply as well as the repair. Did you get the pigtail from an autoparts store or from a scrapped vehicle?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rmesgt View Post
    The heater/blower motor on my M1008 works on occasion. I would like it to work when I need it. This is probably a typical Chevy/GMC problem and not specifically a CUCV issue. The switch feels "Good" (not sloppy or loose), the vent controls (off/defrost/heat) seem to have the right amount of friction in movement and the cool - heat lever at the bottom of the cluster also seems to have the correct amount of friction. What do you think? What can I check? Will my voltage meter be helpful?

    If this is a redundant post, I apologize. I don't yet have the skills to adequately search the threads...
    One of the things that makes searching easier is to use the "search forum" search engine . This narrows the search to only the forum you are searching ( in this case the CUCV forum) . This screenshot shows the location of the icon to click on in the lower right corner of the screenshot .

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    Quote Originally Posted by rmesgt View Post
    Thank you for the reply as well as the repair. Did you get the pigtail from an autoparts store or from a scrapped vehicle?
    I sourced the pigtail where ever I could. The new GM one was expensive and the wires were all white. I op[ted to pull them out of salvage vehicles used was just as good as new and new was much more expensive. Do as you wish. I used dielectric grease and made sure to have a tight connection and the problem took care of itself without having to do further repairs. Good Luck. Glad I could fast track you in the right direction. Be Safe.
    To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead. Thomas Paine: Founding Father Quote.

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    When the blower does work, does the blower motor fan speed control work?

    When passing time on the site I will search different topics that interest me to use the different search features. And then when in need using the features become easier to use. Some times just forming the question different in the sentence or phrase bring up different responses.
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    ACDelco still makes the blower, blower switch, plug and resistor.

    Rockauto.com or Amazon will have the best prices.
    1987 M1008A1 (2)
    1986 M1009
    1995 NF2D FloodLight/Kohler-Kubota Generator Set
    1992 M101A2 trailer (2)
    1987 M149A2 Water Buffalo (M149A1 Chassis)
    S-280 Shelter

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    x2 on the connector! My truck has the 24 volt gauge delete which means theres a hole there. When blower would stop working i'd reach in and wiggle the connector until blower came back on!

    Off topic, Yearly fall reminder: Pull resistor out of the heater box and make sure the mice haven't encased the resistor with a nest! BTDT, had a fire in the heater box!

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    You were so on the money with the problem. My brother and I worked on my CUCV all day. I replaced the ignition switch and door locks (GMCPauls Truck Parts - under $50.00 w/ shipping), new light bulbs in the dash assembly, and yes, a new switch for the heater control. I bought the new switch from O'Reilly's (HS205 Switch $14.00). As you can see in the picture, the main power leg of the switch is burnt beyond use. Once the new switch was in place, the blower began working magnificently.

    Heater Switch.jpg

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    Make sure the connection is tight. If the switch was that hot the heat was on the connection prongs and they are now weak and loose again. Just as important to change the pigtail or make sure you cleaned it and it stays tight. Some dielectric grease may help. Good Luck. Stay Safe.
    To argue with a person who has renounced the use of reason is like administering medicine to the dead. Thomas Paine: Founding Father Quote.

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