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Thread: Cat 3116 lost oil and started knocking

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    Default Cat 3116 lost oil and started knocking

    Hi guys - I'm trying to figure out the best resolution to a catastrophic failure I recently had on my M1079. The truck is an A0 with a mechanical CAT 3116.


    While driving down the highway, the engine had a vibration-fatigue failure on an oil line to the governor. This caused the engine to lose all oil in a hurry, after which it began knocking. We shut it down as soon as we saw the engine oil pressure light come on, but the knock started before we got stopped.


    We received advice from a CAT service tech that "the damage is likely already done, but maybe the noise is from the governor and will go away in a few seconds with oil", so we replaced the broken line and filled it up with oil. We ran it for about 10 seconds at idle and were about to shut it down when it clunked to a stop. Currently the truck is parked outside a shop about 200 miles from my home awaiting a decision on how to move forward.


    We had the shop take a look, and they advised that the engine isn't fully seized (which means it can be rotated and the trans can be disconnected without having to pull it out with the engine). They gave a quote of $3250-$4250 to swap the engine with one we provide (Used cost is about $3000 with a 6-month warranty from someone in the LMTV community).


    I don't know the best way to proceed here... lots of options. Let me know if you have any thoughts/guidance!


    - Will an in-frame rebuild kit revive this engine after the seize? Should we drop the pan and pull the head to see if any obvious catastrophic damage has occurred? What should we look for?

    - Is our best bet to just do the shop-quoted swap at 6-7K all-in?
    - We're considering bringing it back home to work on it, but are currently quoted $2k to tow it the 200 miles home. Any recommendations on transport?

    - Nobody seems to love the 3116 engine - should we change to something else (3126, C7, DT466, Cummins 6.7 ISB)? Plumbing for fuel/exhaust/cooling, electrical considerations, engine mounts, and transmission-fitment are all complications that make this seem like a long project.
    - Our last option is to abandon the project and sell it as-is, but I'd rather not go this route. If we have to, what's an engine-less M1079 with a fully remodeled cab worth?


    Thanks in advance!
    Brian

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    Help everybody else too. Exactly which oil line failed?
    I ask only as engines are not supposed to fail due to one oil line.
    Lots and lots of really good questions her will be answered.
    I was here, had a good time.

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    4 Star General coachgeo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank8003 View Post
    Help everybody else too. Exactly which oil line failed?
    I ask only as engines are not supposed to fail due to one oil line.
    Lots and lots of really good questions her will be answered.
    there is a small line..... squared U shape; on its side, that attaches to the Governor. This is the one. Not first time this has happened. Fellow reported similar recent and others have reported it before too.

    Recent thread on this topic also
    One does not get troubles in life... just character building opportunities. Build on with a smile

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    See below

    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...tting-replaced

    another one

    https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ow-catastophic

    still can't find that post with a shot of a replacement line where Parker? store put a loop in the metal line to reduce vibration issues. Anyone remember that thread?
    Last edited by coachgeo; 10-14-2019 at 15:31.
    One does not get troubles in life... just character building opportunities. Build on with a smile

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    Many stories on here of failed LMTV engines due to broken oil lines, which are caused by the way by vibration caused by driveshaft spline wear. If you are not a DIYer it’s a matter of doing the math. Very likely the crank is scored up already, which makes an inframe not an option.

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    Looking at just the numbers, if your cost to buy this truck initially, plus the new engine, plus the labor (which will probably go up) is much more than the cost of another running truck, then buying another truck wins the contest. Then part out the failed one to recover some bucks. Being so far away from the truck sure makes the decision tougher.

    I had a 3116 engine lose oil too (oil pressure sensor blew out, grounded itself, and engine diagnostics never knew it). It burned up the main bearings, the turbo, and other assorted internals, but didn't lock up, so might not have been as bad as yours. It does not take long to trash an engine.

    I am replacing the engine. But in my case the truck is home, a replacement engine was available locally (no shipping), and no labor involved except mine.

    Tough decision. Good luck.
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    Find someone to towbar it home and do the engine swap yourself.

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    Tow price seems way off of reasonable. To bring my 1084 from Louisiana to KC was 2000$ including semi tow trucks at each end to load and unload it.
    I would buy another truck to part out like tenmogger said and be money ahead if you have the ability.
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    Geopen - you are correct in identifying the oil line that broke.

    NDT - What is the recommended correction for the driveshaft vibration? I've heard people balance them, but if the issue is spline wear, that doesn't seem sufficient.

    SausageGuy - Any recommendations on how to find a reasonably priced transport option?

    Does anyone live in the UT/NV area and have the ability to help flat tow me home?

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    If your driveshafts don’t pass the “hinge test” which is basically zero discernible movement up and down at the spline, your best option is to bring them to a drivetrain specialist and have them replace worn components.

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