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Survey...... "oil line of death 3116" (governor oil feed line)

Reworked LMTV

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As I look at this line, I think the issue is likely resonant vibration. Transmitted between the block and the governor. If the resonance could be dampened, the line might last longer. Not an expert in this area, but that pounding sound of the diesel is probably with harmonics, mostly in the 100-1khz range. No recommending, but Dynamat type of materials impact this freq range. If one of the connectors was more acoustically isolated /adapted, this would help.
 
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jkcondrey

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Well I finally found time to replace mine. Part was an exact match, so no manufacturer changes. I couldn't see any awkward angle or bends, but the line did have some rusting up around the upper fitting. So I felt good about replacing it. My engine serial number is 7ag04670, arrangement number 118-9577. 94' LVAD. The line comes in plain steel, so I added some epoxy primer and coat of yellow afterwards.
 

coachgeo

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Well I finally found time to replace mine. Part was an exact match, so no manufacturer changes. I couldn't see any awkward angle or bends, but the line did have some rusting up around the upper fitting. So I felt good about replacing it. My engine serial number is 7ag04670, arrangement number 118-9577. 94' LVAD. The line comes in plain steel, so I added some epoxy primer and coat of yellow afterwards.
did you perchance eyeball to see if each leg of the U lined up squarely with their matching union? Did one or the other leg need to be slightly forced into alignment to install the union nuts?
 

jkcondrey

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did you perchance eyeball to see if each leg of the U lined up squarely with their matching union? Did one or the other leg need to be slightly forced into alignment to install the union nuts?
It lined up quite well from what I saw. I will say I don't like the flat surface seal it has though. Seems like a flared seal would be better. The old line did have quite a layer of rust building up under the flaking yellow paint though, right up next to the collar. So I would say it was on its way to glory at some point.
 

coachgeo

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It lined up quite well from what I saw. I will say I don't like the flat surface seal it has though. Seems like a flared seal would be better. The old line did have quite a layer of rust building up under the flaking yellow paint though, right up next to the collar. So I would say it was on its way to glory at some point.
if you get the inclination..... would be interesting to see results of magnafluxing the line you took off. See earlier post w/video on how one can do that themself.
 

coachgeo

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In attached video also see that the line has a manufactured small bend toward the block..... and interestingly...... the breaks described/pictured thus far, tend to be centered between that bend and where it attaches to the Governor... see top pic in this thread.... and watch video to discern best what am trying to describe.... intawesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3DcXz9RrV0
 

Coffey1

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I am going to do the abel mod makes better sense than a hard line.
Even my hydraulic hard lines have clamps to prevent stress on the line.
 

Plasa

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Hello.
Looking at the oil line I have an idea. Why not add a small bracket on the right side where the breather is? There is a big screw that can hold a bracket that holds the oil line, preventing vibration...

Christian
 

Reworked LMTV

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Exactly. Stainless strands vibrating on other strands can lead to failure. Vibration reduction is paramount. So is a low pressure warning system just after the tube.

Hello.
Looking at the oil line I have an idea. Why not add a small bracket on the right side where the breather is? There is a big screw that can hold a bracket that holds the oil line, preventing vibration...

Christian
 

Ronmar

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The length of the line could also be a factor. There are other hard lines on this motor, and they don't seem to break. The size(and shape) of this line may make it susceptible to a particular frequency. A clamp to the head mid-span would help to dampen these. There are however a lot of these engines out there, I have not heard of this being an issue with commercial or bus operators, is this only an LMTV thing?

A pressure switch at the top might help with notification, but how much oil pressure do you loose with a crack until all the oil is gone? A shroud(3d printed?) with a sump and an oil level detection switch might actually work better/alert sooner...

I think the hose is the best option...
 

Reworked LMTV

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Maybe dampen with dynamat or similar?
The length of the line could also be a factor. There are other hard lines on this motor, and they don't seem to break. The size(and shape) of this line may make it susceptible to a particular frequency. A clamp to the head mid-span would help to dampen these. There are however a lot of these engines out there, I have not heard of this being an issue with commercial or bus operators, is this only an LMTV thing?

A pressure switch at the top might help with notification, but how much oil pressure do you loose with a crack until all the oil is gone? A shroud(3d printed?) with a sump and an oil level detection switch might actually work better/alert sooner...

I think the hose is the best option...
 

Ronmar

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Anything that changes the mass and makes it less resonant at whatever input is causing it to work and break would probably work. Clamping it along its length effectively adds the mass of the engine to it, and it also divides it into two components at a different, hopefully less resonant length. because of this it would probably be more effective.

This is of course assuming that it is not fracturing because it is being worked in a different way(component movement), as mentioned earlier.
 

Reworked LMTV

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Clamp with dynamat dampener maybe..

Love physics.

I'm going to test my tube for cracks with magnaflux. Just have not gotten to it yet.


Anything that changes the mass and makes it less resonant at whatever input is causing it to work and break would probably work. Clamping it along its length effectively adds the mass of the engine to it, and it also divides it into two components at a different, hopefully less resonant length. because of this it would probably be more effective.

This is of course assuming that it is not fracturing because it is being worked in a different way(component movement), as mentioned earlier.
 

chucky

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If anyone is looking for the CAT part number it is 7W0367 for the factory metal line from CAT is $49.22 I was quoted today for my 3116
 

chucky

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You overpaid. Offroadeq.com has them, I paid half that, shipped, with some o rings too. Look them up.
I looked them up they wanted 46.88 for an aftermarket and 46.88 for a used one . I didnt order 1 I was quoted 49.22 for 1 so i thought i would shop around but I would definatly give the extra 3 bucks for a new factory CAT part
 

jkcondrey

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I looked them up they wanted 46.88 for an aftermarket and 46.88 for a used one . I didnt order 1 I was quoted 49.22 for 1 so i thought i would shop around but I would definatly give the extra 3 bucks for a new factory CAT part
You just have to setup and account. I paid $21.00, new in the Cat wrapper. Just setup a login, your address etc and the prices will update. I ordered filters for $6.00 too.
 
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