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Differential fluid leak at rear wheel

19Detail

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My driver rear wheel is leaking differential oil and I would like to fix it. Since taking the wheel off is a bit of a pain and then deadlines the vehicle in my driveway until I get the part, I was hoping to get the part ahead of time. The flaw in that plan is that I don't know what to order. I am assuming it is a seal. Does anyone know the name of that seal? I have the -24P, but nowhere does it say "hey dummy, this is the part you are looking for".

Also, any suggestions for other things to replace while I am in there would be appreciated.

Jason
 

simp5782

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My driver rear wheel is leaking differential oil and I would like to fix it. Since taking the wheel off is a bit of a pain and then deadlines the vehicle in my driveway until I get the part, I was hoping to get the part ahead of time. The flaw in that plan is that I don't know what to order. I am assuming it is a seal. Does anyone know the name of that seal? I have the -24P, but nowhere does it say "hey dummy, this is the part you are looking for".

Also, any suggestions for other things to replace while I am in there would be appreciated.

Jason
Figure 143 #43 is the inner seal. Part # A-1205-R-2254 found on ebay.

Might as well replace them all while you are in there.

CTIS Seal # A-1205-Q-2435 on ebay
Outer seal # 2297R6648 on ebay
 
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Floridianson

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Since taking the wheel off is a bit of a pain and then deadlines the vehicle in my driveway until I get the part.

Need to put a S on the end of part. There was a maintenance kit that if I remember had everything you needed. If the CTIS seals really went bad and let gear oil through then yep as Wes said do the CTIS seals and hub seal. Myself I would just get enough to do both sides incase the other side decides to let go just when you do not want it to. Did you loose air in that tire?
 
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Floridianson

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It's been a year or so since I did my seals and switched mine over to both bearings to oil floating. I removed the CTIS but as I remember gear oil would have to go through two high pressure CTIS seals and the hub grease seal. Wonder if it is just the hub grease seal leaking grease and not gear oil?
 

19Detail

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Thanks everyone. You have confirmed something for me: I don't know what I am doing.

In the interest of checking the simple/easy thing first, I would like to check the axle vent, but again, I don't know where it is. I don't see anything that looks like it in Figure 134 and I didn't see anything I would call a vent when I looked at the wheel.

Floridianson's comment is a little concerning. The wheel did not/does not lose air. I think it is differential oil because the level in the differential is going down, so that oil is going somewhere.
 

Floridianson

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All the seals are a 4 on the pain in the donkey to do. The setting up if the geared hub is a 7 to 8 on the pain scale if you have never done a hub set up. You will need a shim kit and I use a geared hub that has the face cut off to set the lash. Plus you need to make, buy or borrow the correct spindle nut socket.
 
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simp5782

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Thanks everyone. You have confirmed something for me: I don't know what I am doing.

In the interest of checking the simple/easy thing first, I would like to check the axle vent, but again, I don't know where it is. I don't see anything that looks like it in Figure 134 and I didn't see anything I would call a vent when I looked at the wheel.

Floridianson's comment is a little concerning. The wheel did not/does not lose air. I think it is differential oil because the level in the differential is going down, so that oil is going somewhere.
If you do not know what you are doing then you should not touch it. You set that planetary up wrong then its really going to bite your wallet.

You should really not touch it if you think taking the wheel off is a pain or a challenge.
 

19Detail

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So, it looks like it was the wheel hub seal. It is in 3 distinct pieces. I have the wheel disassembled and I have one quick question. The -20 states to pack the inner roller bearings. That make sense (mine were washed clean by the differential oil). It does not mention packing the outer cone rollers. That makes sense (the rollers are not separated from the differential fluid so it seems like they would mix). The older post on planetary gear setup shows a picture of the spindle nut socket with a clearly packed outer roller bearing behind it. So my question, is do I pack the outer roller bearings?

Thanks,

Jason
 

Floridianson

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The outer bearings are oil floating from the differential on the rears and added and just checked on the front. On the rears you could add to the hub as per the tm and then double check the level of the differential. If I remember right the diff. level was to be one inch lower than the fill hole. So yes correct level in Diff. will supply outer bearings on the rears.
 
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19Detail

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Sorry, I meant the inner bearing that should be packed was getting flushed with differential oil on its way out. When I took the wheel apart, the inner bearing was as clean as the outer bearing.

You answered my question though. Thanks again.
 

Floridianson

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Yea do not know why someone did that but stock was oil bath front and rear. Myself on the rears since we are working the hub rebuild and sealing the hub I want the mateing services to be clean. So I do not try and oil the bearing / gears on install. I just after installing the rear hub inject just a bit of gear oil into the hub to get some oil onto the bearing. Then with truck on level check the diff. level and the hub will fill to the correct level for use. It has been a couple of years since I did mine and I looked real quick for the TM's. I thought the level of the rear's was check oil hot but double check me on the one. I do use a little grease to hold the thrust washer and thrust bearing into the hub / cap for install.
Just asking are you ready to set up the hub / gear lash and which method are you using?
 
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19Detail

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Thanks. I am still trying to figure out setting the gear lash. I am starting to lose faith in the TM. In the -20-3 (10-9), it says you ignore steps 21 through 24 if you are just packing the wheel bearings for PMCS, but steps 21 through 24 are all about setting the gear lash. I am thinking I may reassemble it and move it out of my driveway (about 100 yards). Then I can push this problem farther into the future. We got about 8 inches of snow and the temp dropped to 8 degrees in the last few days so I am not in a rush to be out in that.
 

19Detail

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I agree, but you have to remove the spindle nut to get to the roller bearings to re-pack them. It seems like I could put the nut back on (on tight to 50ft-lbs, back off a quarter turn, then tighten to 10-20ft-lbs) and not have it at the same depth as the previous guy within the tolerance they are talking about.
 

Floridianson

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We need to check lash any time we go bearing deep into the hub. I tell you what I know you have not been on the board very long but here is my offer. Small deposit to me for the tools and pay for the shim pack. I will send you the correct socket for the spindle nut, cut off face of the hub so you can set the lash the way some of us are doing it and one shim pack. You pay shipping both ways.
Look over this thread and I will pm you my cell number for questions.https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-LMTV-planetary-hub-setup&highlight=gear+lash
 
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19Detail

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James,

Thank you, that is very generous. I have the socket and the shim pack. I am very interested in making my own hub tool (or buying one) because I think I may have to do this again. I have seen the set up from Steve6x6x6 in the old post (below).

I do have a question though, how do you measure the shim amount?

 
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