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M809 Series- Front axle work and what to expect

Robo McDuff

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Maybe because Ajax MD started this thread on the same topic, and he was talking about the axle seals and knuckle.

Should I just put some of the old grease over the spines and leave it at that then?
 

Floridianson

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Yea guess so. I see that you just had the hub seal problem and yea the thread started with full service. I always like to go neck high when servicing these trucks as we do not know how it was treated or what we have. The Deuce and the 5 ton axles I have serviced all seem to have the newer axles with the cross type U joints. Then there were the ones with the ball and seat that required greasing. When I go all in I do the axle to axle housing seal and work my way out. By going all in I can also see what axle shaft I have. I do not load up the knuckle as the one as said have the cross type u joint so far. I can not see grease in any way getting into the needle bearing on the cross type. The ones I have taken apart that have the cross type but some how the knuckle is loaded down with grease there is a big cavity where the U joint has been spinning any grease away from it. With the cross type and pumping the knuckle full also I believe can put a strain or push out the rubber boot. Then there is the problem with all the aftermarket boots failing way to soon. Because of cheap rubber or maybe because of the grease breaking the rubber down. Now with the ball and seat type we have to pack grease around the joint. I do not like those axles but sometimes we are just stuck with them or have to pay the price of new axles. I believe someone said they even had the ball and seat on a 939 series and that would tell me that when it came out they were recycling parts but my memory is failing.
Correction made on this post sorry memory again.
 
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Ajax MD

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Eh, depending on what kind of greast the previous owner used, and the heat that the truck may have sat in, the grease in the knuckles could be OK. Well, assuming that he didn't do any deep water fording and wash it out.

When you get the chance, remove the boots and scrape out all the old grease that you can, remove the little allen-head plugs on the knuckle and stuff it full of grease. The TM says something about 4 pounds of grease! Based on the age of your truck, you probably have the Timkin style axles, so pump the knuckles full of grease.
 

Ajax MD

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Maybe because Ajax MD started this thread on the same topic, and he was talking about the axle seals and knuckle.

Should I just put some of the old grease over the spines and leave it at that then?
Yes, put some kind of grease on the splines, preferably new. GAA is a lithium complex grease. I think you said that the grease you're using is also lithium complex, so you should be fine.
 

Floridianson

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That is why I like the cross type and not greasing the knuckle and not over greasing the knuckle pivot pins. That way if I do go fording to drain out any water in the knuckle I just have to remove one of the bottom king pin cap bolt and drain out any water.
 
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Robo McDuff

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No fording: since 1986 to 1999/2000 in a POMS depot in the Netherlands 100 miles on the meter - then on a private camping ground transporting garbage and white sand, getting to 3000 miles - and since 2010 my property, maybe 100 miles as well.

Grease colors do not mean anything? Mine is a nice dark blue color.
 

Ajax MD

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My reading seems to indicate that colors are often a branding thing.

Lithium complex is compatible with many other types of grease but not (for example) polyurea based grease such as Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty grease.
Here's a compatibility chart for your reference:
 

Robo McDuff

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My reading seems to indicate that colors are often a branding thing.

Lithium complex is compatible with many other types of grease but not (for example) polyurea based grease such as Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty grease.
Here's a compatibility chart for your reference:
How to make me nervous. No way I can check what the previous owner used, just have to hope that polyurea grease at that time (2000-2009) was more expensive, or they did not had it there, or they did not do anything and the last time somebody did something was in the depot or or or AAAAHGGGGGHHHH.


At least the good thing is I am using a Lithium Complex Grease, so hopefully it will not cause problems
 

Floridianson

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My fault for calling chicken little. Sorry. No worry you are repacking the bearings and that is what seems to fail a lot if not serviced when we get these trucks. If you have the cross type axles I would bet there are good and even if you had the ball and seat bet it still has enough grease to be used. Yea the inside of the spindle can always use some grease too but here still think you should be ok and if you ever go all in then you can service / check everything. Also wheel bearings going bad / coming apart on the road would and could cause something bad to happen. Not enough grease in the spindle or ball axle would seem like it would just be a little more wear. I also had to correct my last post as I mixed apples with oranges.
 
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Superthermal

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Ajax
I'll give my thumbs up as well for the torque multipliers.
I picked up a "not so expensive" one from Amazon in preparation even before I got my 923.
After having all 10 wheels off at least once (a couple more than once already to replace axle seals unfortunately) I believe these things are God's gift to MV owners. Unbelievably effortless to use and so simple and effective.
I also recommend always having a couple appropriate spare lug nuts and studs (RH & LH) on hand before starting anything requiring removing the wheels. I found several lugs and studs on mine that were damaged, cross-threaded, stripped, etc. and needed immediate replacement and many more that had seen much better days and will need to be replaced eventually.
Nothing more frustrating than trying to get your truck back together and on the road after dealing with a failed seal or something and not having a simple spare stud/nut to complete the job, especially as I do most work on my truck on the weekends when the local truck parts shops are not open.View attachment 782281

Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Trying to get myself set up with tools for my M813 maintenance list. Thanks for any help or pointers.

Did the 38mm socket fit the 1 1/2 (38.1mm) wheel nuts?
I am guessing you purchased this part...

What did you do to get the square nut/sleeve style lug off? Did you already have one of the combination lug nut removers like Bigmike is out of stock on?
 

simp5782

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Trying to get myself set up with tools for my M813 maintenance list. Thanks for any help or pointers.

Did the 38mm socket fit the 1 1/2 (38.1mm) wheel nuts?
I am guessing you purchased this part...

What did you do to get the square nut/sleeve style lug off? Did you already have one of the combination lug nut removers like Bigmike is out of stock on?
The outer lug nut and inner thimble socket is a common item at napa, northern tool, truck parts places. Just call it a budd socket

Harbor freight has the 13/16 square and 1-1/2 and other large sizes in their truck wheel impact set.
 
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