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Holes, Hinges, and Doors - 1045A2

ewylam

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Good morning folks. I'm looking for some recomendations and pictures of how people have dealt with the holes left after the MAK armor removal. My 1042A2 has a bunch of holes where the piano style door hinge and armor was mounted. Ultimately I want to mount Mil-Spec X-Doors and some how seal up the other holes. Do the X-Door hinges match any of the MAK holes or will I need to drill new ones? Are there any MAK style doors that would use the original piano holes?

743976_6002_0_0001.jpg743976_6002_10099_0001.jpg

Thanks for the advice,
Emmett
 

Coug

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My 1123 had armor, not sure what type, but the holes were there to mount the soft door hinges.

So far I've ignored the holes, they haven't been an issue in the weather. I did use some leftover 1/2" flange head bolts from when they removed the armor to attach some rubber to the inside of the foot wells to seal up all the holes left there.
 

ewylam

New member
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Coug,

Thanks for the reply. I've seen some others use nuts, bolts, and washers to "fill" them in which looks ok too. Another person suggested using plastic hole plugs from Lowes or HD which I will try also. I think i'll just have to order some X-Doors and give it a try.

Thank you,
Emmett
 

juanprado

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Standard x-doors do not use those piano hinges. They use a round automotive style Stricker and 2 hinges which all mount inside the door sill.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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I would at least temporarily use colored duct tape or paint duct tape to match
 

Andyrv6av8r

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I filled my empty holes with 1/2" and 3/8" bolts. The X door hinges lined up with existing holes; some were threaded and some needed nuts.

20190823_163108.jpg 20191104_173635.jpg
 

Crapgame

Well-known member
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I thought about trying those aluminum brazing sticks you use with a propane or MAPP gas torch, using a piece of copper plate on the backside to keep the puddle in the hole.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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You need small plastic or rubber plugs. Readily available on amaz0n.
 

ewylam

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Salem
Thanks for the replies! I'm going to try the plugs and bolts to see which looks better. As you can see from the pics whoever removed the armor wasn't very gentle so some of the holes need attention to smooth out. I'll post picks when I'm done.
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
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Crystal City Mo
Why not use rivets? That is what was there? Or rivet, bolt on some aluminum plate. That is part of the character of the 1045A2.

What if you use pan head screws or bolts.

I would try and replicate the armor or the add on equipment package.
 
Last edited:

ewylam

New member
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1
Location
Salem
cucvmule,


I've considered fabricating some rock rails that would extend up the front fender and down to the rear wheel well reusing the holes in a similar fashion to the armor. I may still go that route but wanted to consider other options and was also concerned with the piano hinge holes which wouldn’t be covered up with the "armor".

Emmett



 

Awol

Active member
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Location
MA
I'd just plug em with caps.

Or, grab a sheet of AR500 and make some new armor plates!
 
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