Can the Protector Box be repaired?

And if so, where do I send it. I'll try to attach the photos showing the hot spots where the damage is within the box. I'm not much of a solid state repair type person but I think these are a power transistor (maybe a different name). Also there was maybe a diode or resistor that was blown in half that I found the pieces to. Any and all advice
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Repair seems to be a no go. Call Michael Vaiden at Blackdog customs in Georgia. He generally has the beat deal. You will need to replace the temp sensor as well to match the new style box.


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With all due respect to dockrock... I and several others on this forum have repaired boxes. You need to search threads and go to the electrical forum and dig deep.

Just understand and that a repaired box might fail, so keep identical spares. I have several kds greens and several others identical to my current box so if one fails I can get going quick.

Best,

T

I was a roadie in high school back in the 70s, brother an electronics tech/IEEE engineer (who got me the job) and I did a LOT of tinkering, built heathkit stuff, know which end of a soldering iron to use and how to circuit trace.

Thing is, when something’s as cooked as it appears to be with your photos, you have to think “cascade.”

Parts fail, often at or below rated numbers - hours, milliamps, volts, temps or because some piece of a star that went nova 7 billion years ago just knocked a few atoms out of place at a critical NP or PN juncture.

So a diode fails, or a resistor, then the next component upstream takes the heat, and the next, and so on.

So, unless you have actual published data on how to repair the board - which isn’t likely considering how “disposable” a part this is so far as TACOM is concerned (I mean, they CRUSH old HMMWVs rather than realize a profit or even marginal cash value on the collector’s market) - you’re working from schematics of dubious authenticity/currency and sometimes guessing at values.

I rebuilt a couple of old (like 40 years) guitar amp heads - Acoustic Control Corp - 270 and 370 (watt) - and even with good tracing, I wound up replacing every electrolytic cap on the boards, and a boatload of resistors I changed due to age and tolerances (like 5% instead of 10) and those things SANG. My son’s high school band used them for years then I sold them for a profit.

Absent good schematics and parts lists with published values, you’re in for replacing a LOT of parts to make the box work like new or better, and many a cold winter evening hunched over circuit boards, soldering iron in hand, scouring Mouser, eBay or Digikey’s sites for parts and so on.

Great fun if you have the talent or are up for the challenge.

Keep us posted.

Norm

Don't know if it matters a lot or not but the engine still runs and starts. The wait light doesn't come on but I let it go about 20 seconds before trying to start it and it fires right up. Sometimes I don't hear the solenoid kicking in so I give it a wack with a rubber mallet gently and it clicks. If it doesn't click, it will not start. Course it's been working OK for the last few days, clicking every time and starting easy as long as I wait, even down to 20*. The original reason I took the box out was I thought there may be a corrosion problem with the connections, like I've seen in some of the photos on here, my plan was to clean them up. Course we all know how plans seldom work out. Where do I go from here? ANy checks that I can do, course when things are blown apart something must not work.

I started a thread not long ago asking the same question. Somebody advised what the blown apart diode is for, it is not essential. If your voltmeter is dipping indicating glow current flowing, your box might still be alive.

Tobash can you link the threads you mentioned, I cannot find them.

Just a note : if your making a manual system...20 seconds is to long ...should be 5 to 10 , unless you only have a few plugs glowing.

Can it be repaired?

Yes.


Should that style be repaired?

If you have the time and know how to do it, then sure, why not. Worst you'll probably do is make a non functional box still not work. (I say probably, but if you really screw it up I'm sure there could be some fire involved, so don't really screw up)

First, let me thank everyone for their answers. I have no experience working on these trucks so you guys and your wisdom have been a great help. When the truck was unloaded into the drive the first thing I did was install new plugs. After such, I started checking the wiring system for grounds and corrosion. I may try to replace the injured parts and see what happens. Course I'm lucky to have a Uncle that does this sorta thing. I guess by the box still working it's a huge plus. My concern is why sometimes does it take a bash for the solenoid to close? Do I need to look for a bad ground or maybe a bad solenoid? Also I have seen a add on ground harness for around 100 bux. Is it worth it? I do have all the necessary parts to make one myself using mil spec wire and connectors if theres some diagram on here. Thanks

Doing a ground harness is definitely worth it. If installing it doesn't help issues that you are currently experiencing, then it's very likely to keep some other issue from rearing it's ugly head in the future. It's one of those "cheap insurance" type additions to the truck. Building it yourself is pretty cheap and easy, just 5 different cables run to 5 different places on the truck from one grounding spot.

Up in the sticky threads there is one all about it that tells you everything you need to do
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...rounding-Kit-Install&highlight=harness+ground