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Deuce + Shelter = Camper RV

Djfreema

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I think Mike Pop had a real nice unimog with a radio box that was converted to a camper or it might have been a Unimog radio box on a M105 chasis, either way it was real cool, there should be pics on the site somewhere. I tried the Unimog thing, they are awesome but I am partial to the duece.
 

tennmogger

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My wife and I just finished putting a 1971 Alaskan hard top popup on our 1988 Unimog U1300. The truck has OD under red paint. It was used by a fire department in Germany until 2003 so this truck is probably not military but there are many like it that are ex-military.
 

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tennmogger

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Nathan,

I really like your shelter conversion project and have been following along. I contemplated an S-280 shelter for my U-1300 but then the 'perfect' Alaskan camper came along. It's hard to find the Alaskan's in 10 ft with no overhang up front, and to find one in good condition is really rare (had to go to MN for it). I like the low profile, and reduced wind load. I lost about 1 mpg when the camper went on. BTW, I get 14 mpg average now, down from about 15 before. I can get 17 mpg if I am realllllly easy on the throttle.

I'm still contemplating options for power in the Alaskan. It came wired for 110 lights and outlets and that's really handy for campground power, but most of my camping will not be in campgrounds. I have added a good deep-discharge 12 v battery and some LED lighting, sort of temporary, but here's what I'm thinking about for permanent.

I like 24 v power. The chassis is 24 v so 24 v battery pack in the camper makes sense. That was the setup in the 404 Unimog radio box.

Camper batteries would be fully charged from the truck and be ready to go when I get to the camping spot. I have a 24 to 12 converter (Wilmore brand, 35 amp) for my 12 volt ham radio needs, and keeping the 12 v battery topped up, so I can run 12 v DC lighting. With the new LED stuff available, and 12 v compact flourescent bulbs available, that takes care of lighting.

I do need 115 vac occasionally. You might also like this idea: 24 v UPS systems are cheap surplus after their batteries are dead. I have picked up a couple and they work great as 115 vac inverters. Just connect their 24v leads to the camper batteries, and get 115 vac out. The UPS's even have a battery charger included. Plug them in in the campground, or at home, and recharge or float charge the camper 24 v batteries. One thing to watch out for is the limited current rating of the UPS's charger. Charging a couple of 7 AH 12 v gel cells, typically, is much easier than charging 100 AH of big batteries! Might have to insert a little series resistance to cut the current, but prolong the charge time.

The Alaskan has 30 gallons of water on board, plus a separate water line and faucet on the sink for campground water, and a simple gray water drain out to an old Gerry water can. The toilet is a canister type. It's primarily for my wife. She refuses to go camping any more without a toilet after I dragged her out into the Rockies for an annual "Cold Butt Campout" in 22 inches of snow. Can't say I blame her. The best part, she takes care of the toilet dumping, he he. I'd rather go to the woods with a shovel.
 
This is the water heater I will be using....$130.00 camping world, amazon, etc.
Ignites on water flow, comes with regulator.

I will be adapting my sink hot water line to this outside the shelter so I have hot water on demand for the sink without a hot water tank.

The shower attachment will attached to the faucet of the sink when shower is in use.

Link to camping world for additional info: EccoTemp Portable Water Heater - Item - Camping World

Edit: 5-15-09. Water heater works great!..I do think the interior version would be nice if using for an M109. The size of my shelter leans towards placing it ouside as shown in my pics. Little work but works slick!!
 

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m109guy

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I was looking for the same type of water heater for my deuce camper. I was about to buy that one, but then I realized that it could only be used outside because of the way it was vented (the entire top of the unit is used for venting). I wanted my heater to be inside my camper. I ended up buying another model for the same price which had a pipe on the top so that you could vent it outside, while keeping the unit inside the camper.

It is called a 1.5gpm Marey Tankless water heater. I bought one brand new for $120 on ebay a few months ago, but it seems they have gone up in price a bit since them. Works well in my M109 camper as it gives me hot water for my sink and shower.
 
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bugei

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Sorry for the semi-hijack

this thread reminded me that i had a prototype of a setup that we made for an elk camp laying around. before there were lots and lots of tankless water heaters, there was essentially, only one. BOSCH.

this setup used a bosch/junkers w125 ventless, propane water heater and a sure flow demand pump to provide the camp all the water they could ever need. throw a hose in the water source, connect a propane tank and a battery, and you were "cooking with gas". you can see the portable shower head which had a on off switch in the picture.

now that i found this, i will list it up in the classifieds in case someone can use it. the dust is included. this is the problem about being a "mad scientist", you have tons of "treasures".
 

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Sevo

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Great thread and thank you for all the pictures.

I have a 109 that I will be doing the same thing with. I am looking for ideas with the beds and i Like the ones you have. Can you give me the dimensions of your beds and frames? Also maybe a run down of materials if you have time.

again thank you for the great thread
 

ohnuts

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Sleepers who lay across beds like you have seem less prone to injury than the ones that crash head first into the forward bulkhead. Like your set up.
 
Keep in mind that for passengers to ride in a camper they have to have some way to communicate with the driver of the vehicle and they must have at least one exit they can open from the inside.
Struggled with how I am going to communicate with the passengers in the back at a reasonable cost. I think my plan will be to install a CB in the cab and one in the box. With 2 that close, I think that will accomodate my needs.

If that is problematic, I might try using the PA output (using a speaker from the BOX PA in the cab and the cab PA in the box. Adding an additional volume control on each side so that it can be controlled by the receiving end.

Still to be tested
 
Great thread and thank you for all the pictures.

I have a 109 that I will be doing the same thing with. I am looking for ideas with the beds and i Like the ones you have. Can you give me the dimensions of your beds and frames? Also maybe a run down of materials if you have time.

again thank you for the great thread
Will get the sizes soon, but I can say this:

I went online and searched standard bed sizes, there is a lot of info for that.

I built mine slightly smaller than a full size mattress. The unfortunate part was I got a GREAT deal on queen mattresses after it was built. I am using them but they roll up against the wall in the back on both of them. eventually I will change them out.
 

jime

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I've seen a lot of pics with the campers on the deuce and pulling the 105 with the supplies. Has anyone built the camper on the 105 trailer instead? I'm kicking around some camper ideas.
 
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