Help me trouble shoot starting issues ?

I did a brief search and did not find any similar scenarios. Admittedly I am pretty novice mechanically. And electronics is my weakest "skill".

1986 CUCV 1008. Converted to 12V by PO or PPO. Just replaced alternator with Remy-Delco Cadillac starter. Things worked fine for a week. I do not think this has anything with the current problem, but I am providing as much info as possible.

From out of nowhere, I was left stranded at work. No warning signs. No start.

Lots of juice. All my dash lights are up and running. Was converted to manual glow plugs at the cut out light switch as well.

But no clicking sounds, nada. I rocked the wheel, jacked with the gear selector, rolled the truck backwards a few feet and threw it in Park. Nada.

I asked my boss to look at it. We popped the hood, and of course, since my boss was there, it turned over and fired right up.

I used it for about 2 more days. Maybe 4 more starts. Now it's dead again in the driveway.

In short, I am very broke. What trouble shooting can I do to be more certain to nail it down specifically? I am guessing solenoid or starter. I am a single guy, so I do not have any assistant to bang on the starter for me while I hit the key. I have heard that this may get the starter to turn over if it is the problem source.

Any ballpark on prices for one or the other parts? Was thinking about $50 solenoid and $150 starter, but who knows.

JesseJaymes said:

Just replaced alternator with Remy-Delco Cadillac starter.

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I'd suspect using a delco starter in place of an alternator could cause some charging issues. Here are some search results to help you.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/search.php?searchid=51813
I found these by using advanced search, entered starter and selected title only (under the shearch term) then highlighted the CUCV forum.

Here A trick to check if your Batt cable end are making good contact. Take a volt meter and place both ends on the post of the batt not the cable ends . then take the meter ends and place them on the cable ends should be same reading. like said a bove make sure that all battery cables are good and clean and also the grounds. Also you can check the little wire on the starter that is the wire that sends 12volts to make the starter start. Power should be there only when the key is in the start mode.
John

Hey Jesse, I offered to help you out a couple of times with your truck, offer still stands. I have ALOT of GM parts, including starters and such.

Ed

Your problem very well could be in the area of the starter relay under the dash. But honestly with the 12v hack... I have no clue what wiring was left, and what was removed. Really frustrates me when people do this to good trucks!

Your gonna need a volt meter. I like the needle type, as the swing of the needle means more to me than numbers and decimal points. Anyhow, start at the batteries, and keep working toward the starter, find where the voltage drops. Keep that test meter in the truck and use it if it happens again.

Hey mangus, you really don't like any 12 volt conversions??? Not even to simplify the glow plug system?

corelokt said:

Hey mangus, you really don't like any 12 volt conversions??? Not even to simplify the glow plug system?

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The problem is... nobody does them the same way, or of the same quality. Makes it VERY hard to troubleshoot over the internet.

With a stock setup... I can sit here and ask questions, get answers, and fix your truck without ever looking at it. I just cant do that with a modified setup, so I get very frustrated!

How much simplification can be obtained by a 12V conversion? Only thing I can think of is not using the step down resistors but you can do that and keep it 28V too! My CUCV knowledge is limited to a stay at the Holiday Inn Express!

You'll learn more eating at Denny's. Private joke, as my last name is Denny.
Back on topic. No need for a relay, timer, computer card or anything more than a starter button and wire. Gotta have resister plugs and not hold them on to long. I have a tractor set up like that. Tractor takes a twenty count to get the resistor to glow. Most say the trucks only take a three count.
I'm not sure what stands to be gained as far as the starting system, except MAYBE a few less relays.

Another idea, and I'm doing this to mine as a pre-emptive repair. Go to ebay and buy a set of 4 hummer military battery clamps. Then when they come, go to a welding outfit and have all your cables remade with welding cable, 1 gauge, with lugs on the ends to fit the new battery clamps and the other ends the same as before. The welding cable carries a lot of current, and is more flexible than battery cable. The hum-vee clamps are heavy duty and take lug end cables. I know my battery clamps have cracks in them. Working fine right now, but not to be trusted.

I did my 12v conversion according to the tech article here on the site. Have had no problems whatsoever, and when I eliminate the starter relay from under the dash, I'll be installing an anti-theft switch and going to fix up a remote starter switch that I can plug in.

The starter relay (under the dash) or the solenoid on the starter sound like the two main culprits. It could also be the neutral safety switch on the transmission. I say that because the relays are bad about burning out in the closed position and ruining the starter/battery cables before they can be unplugged. They can, rarely, burn out in the open position, creating a non crank issue, such as yours. Running 12 volts through the relay creates twice the amperage of 24 volts, and they probably don't handle that too well.

Check the solenoid on the starter with a test light, the small terminal should get voltage when the key is turned to start. ( I usually clip the test light clip on it, and locate the light itself somewhere so I can see it from the driver's position) If you get no voltage there, check for voltage at the starter relay, the Technical Manuals on the site (under resources) will have all the pertinent places to check with the test light. To check the neutral safety switch, I remove the wires from it and use a jumper wire. The tm's will show you where everything is located and how to test it, according to military standards. Best of luck with it, I hope it turns out to be something simple for ya.

I appologize men. I had a typo. Spelling was correct, but intention was not. I replaced the ALTERNATOR. I have not jacked with the starter yet.