Turning up the power on a Deuce

How do you turn up the pump on a mulitfuel to
get more power from It? Do I need bigger injectors
for it? Could use a few more Zebras under the hood
thanks for the help
Jim

how much back ground do u have in the area? i dont wana tell you how to crank up the pump unless you kinda sorta know what your doin
injectors is a possability as there are a few differnt ones used
theres a variety of turbos
propane works well

Good advice hot rod deuce<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink"> Everyone wants that little secret<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_gossip.gif" alt="Gossip"> but when done wrong<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_warn.gif" alt="Warning!"> (turning that little screw to much) melt down<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_help.gif" alt="Help"> IMHO its no big deal<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">

So fellas...I read a couple of posts about people inquiring about more power on the Multifuel Diesels, but nobody will post a direct answer. I think we all old enough to understand that if we get greedy, we'll destroy the motor. Give up the key...and maybe exhaust temp numbers or tips to tell when it on and when it's too much so these people don't have to drive the trucks like they hate them to get them to accelerate well. Ain't I a stinker?

SG,
Not really. I'd do it myself if I had a turbo boost and pyrometer. My problem is all my money right now is in my Masters degree (I start teaching first graders for real on Tuesday). Once I get some real cash flow going I'm looking to aquire these things and asking some serious questions about properly doing this.

I don't remember exactly how but there is some way of putting up to three quarters in the injector pump and yes it does work. had one done it

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=1154&highlight=fuel+pump

should have all the pump info you need.

thats the adjuster stud. turn the nut in like 1/2 a turn and reset the lock nut. Now you MUST have a pyro to look at or kiss that motor good bye!!

The outer nut is the lock nut. The inner nut is turned to adjust the screw in or out. The fuel delivery increases as the screw moves out (=turning the adjusting nut clockwise).
When the FDC is operating and making adjustments on its own based on the viscosity of the fuel, the difference between gasoline and #2 diesel is only equivalent to about 1 turn, so use care and as WT says, get a pyro!

Every one i've done has a threaded cap over the adjusting screw and one lock nut. After removing the cap release the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise. Or into the FDC. And lock the nut back down. Only turn the screw it 1/8 turn increments. After each adjustment rapidly move the throttle open and closed. Watch the ehaust smoke when it starts to blacken then stop and lock the nut back down. Not too tight because the screw in a fine thread into alumium and you may strip the threads. You really should get a pryo before doing this.

Dang DA... I could hardly read that post... LOL, nothing but code!

Anyhow, best way to "turn it up" is to pop more fuel into like like the chaps say. Only thing I'd add to this information is to buy a pyrometer, and place it within 2" of the turbo. It's very important to tap it in AFTER the turbo, as you can break off probes or have shavings ruin your impellers, and then you'll have to buy a turbo kit from me.

Generally, (and I think I posted this somewhere else, I forget, oh well) you want to keep a post turbo egt below 900. Anything nearing 1100-1200 will make the exhaust and turbo literally glow, and if you use "dino" oil, you can coke it on contact with the turbo. This also de-tempers the metal and eventually it will crumble.

There is no "easy" way to just crank power out of it just by turning a knob to infinity. It's not a cummins, and it is fragile. Be careful and enjoy it!

oops, this thread is like 2 years old... oh well

For quality thermocouple probes:
http://www.hewittindustries.com/thermo.htm
They are made to handle the temperature in the exhaust manifold, so if you drill and tap a mounting hole for the probe when the turbo is out of the way, all shavings can be removed.
It is of value to me to be able to see the response instantly and not be concerned about the temperature drop across the the turbo.

Two probes, one before and one after the turbo, could produce some interesting results.

I have mine in the exhaust manifold before the turbo and have had perfect performance for several years.
Then again, in case of failure, a surplus LDT465 turbo costs a lot less than a Holset high performance job.

Actually, I am going to be using two probes to measure the drop this spring. We'll have to trade info.

I should have said that pre-turbo probes are not for everyone; you should know what you're doing.

There is a 1/4 NPT pipe plug facing the front of the truck on mine. That's where i put my probe. I've noticed not all manifolds have this plug. It's very close to the #1 cylinder port. I mesured the probe length and made a extension pipe so the probe wouldn't stick too far into the manifold.
I didn't want it to rectrict any gas flow.

Anybody got an idea how to adjust the fuel rate on this style IP? I smokes so bad it will fill my barn with blackish grey smok in seconds.

Looks like a "code G" pump per TM 9-2910-226-34. Under the cover there is a bracket with a screw holding a "stop plate". Moving this forward or backward changes the delivery. I have no knowledge beyond that about the pump you have, just what I read in the TM. I assume the "1 flat at a time and then try it" careful turning-up procedure holds true for this type as well?

But when is it smoking? shouldn't do so unles you really get into it.

DrFoster said:

Actually, I am going to be using two probes to measure the drop this spring. We'll have to trade info.

Click to expand...

DrFoster, did you ever get around to this data collection? It would be interesting to see the pre-post difference at WOT in 5th from 1500 to 2600RPM.

Different engine, but I have seen as much as 700° difference pre v. post. As expected, post responds very slowly compared to pre-turbo.