• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Look at this Bobbed Deuce

gumps10

New member
17
0
1
Location
Marion NY
That bobbed duece is pretty nice.
Can't wait to see what he wants for it.
Do the bobbed trucks get better milage or just easier to handle?
 

spicergear

New member
2,307
16
0
Location
Millerstown, PA
I just did one...sold it to a buddy of mine before I even had the brakes bled.

Most people really don't need as much truck as the stock M35's are. Most don't need what the bobbed trucks still are but they're different and pretty cool. Yes, the *should* get better milage (don't look for lots, maybe 2 or 3, but I'm guessing there) and they're easier to manage and wheel around.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
1,813
113
Location
GA Mountains
Suspension wide you use the trailer springs and frame hangars. This moves the springs outboard and adds a helper if you install the top plates for them. If you postion it right, you can even use the 105 bed. I like the looks of a shortened deuce bed myself. We've also bobbed deuces using front springs but the M015 stuff makes a nicer conversion.
 

spicergear

New member
2,307
16
0
Location
Millerstown, PA
Do yourself a favor and don't be nice in any way to the rivets and bolts holding the rear suspension on. What I did was cut off the heads, then burn a hole through the center of them. I could not pound them out other wise. Cutting the suspension tower rivets is fun as you're all wedged in on top of the axles trying to see, cut, and not fry your retnas or set yourself on fire...which somehow I'm prone to.

Disconnect the brake line going to ther rear tandem from the junction block. You'll be able to use the origninal front line again. Just plug the rears location.

Once you get all the fastening devices cut, what I did was, jack up the rear of the frame so that the full tandem is suspended. I then took a big digging iron and pried where the tower met the frame and used the weight of the suspension and Rockwells to help pull itself apart. With a satisfying 'thunk,' it all parted and I was able to roll both rears out from under the frame. Oh, I put jackstand in front of the rears behind the T-case on the frame. I unbolted the front tandem and rolled it back under. Marked where it would go via fender opening on M105 trailer box, then with clamps, hung a set of factory front springs and hangers to mark where the holes would be drilled. From there it's pretty much gravy. Using front hardware give you the correct bolts for a square tube axle and allows a pretty easy bolt up. Got some other pics if anyone needs-
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
1,813
113
Location
GA Mountains
As long as you have a torch and lifting equipment, not much for parts. You can position it so you don't have to change the rear driveshaft length. You can reuse the brake hose IIRC and all you need is some grade 8 fasteners. It labor intensive getting all those rivets out and the walking beam side plates off but its pretty straight forward. Need to remove the rear crossmembers, shorten the back of the frame and drill and reattach that stuff. If one takes their time it can look really professional. We have a Tru Value hdwe store right up the street and they have the best grade 8 bolt assortment I've seen in a long time, guess I'm lucky on that one!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks