Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 37

Thread: Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style

  1. #1
    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    GA Mountains
    Posts
    33,399
    Thanks
    757
    Thanked 10,284 Times in 4,616 Posts

    Default Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style

    Gang, here are 2 pics of my bleeder. You can see that the tank line has a ball valve and a quick coupler from an air line. It then connects to a second hose that has a tee and a 6" nipple that screws into the MC cap. There's a plug in the top of the tee but eventually it will have a pressure gauge. You can't install the cap as it's pictured. You have to put the cap on then screw the nipple in. I have a second hose not pictured just for filling the MC. It works flawlesssly and you can just keep the BFS right in the bleeder. That MC cap is also an extra but you could easily use your own cap by just removing the vent line fixture. When shopping for a sprayer, find one with a pressure release valve,
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

  2. The Following 13 Users Say Thank You to Recovry4x4 For This Useful Post:

    bombcar (05-13-2018), crazywelder72 (05-02-2012), CUCVLOVER (09-21-2015), dburd72 (10-17-2011), joshuak (12-15-2015), m715mike (09-07-2015), microjeep (05-08-2018), Niknil (02-15-2011), russojap (08-30-2018), tburk49760 (07-03-2015), tcruwithme (08-31-2018), Torquewrench (06-12-2016), wb9btz (11-17-2016)

  3. #2
    Moderator cranetruck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Meadows of Dan, Virginia
    Posts
    10,375
    Thanks
    118
    Thanked 985 Times in 598 Posts

    Default

    That looks real good, Kenny. Thanks for the post!

    Here is the post from rdixiemiller from a week ago, I copied it here for comparison.
    Between the two, I (we) should be able to come up with some perfect brakes.

    "All
    I have used both pressure and vacuum bleeders over the years. I prefer the pressure type, because the vacuum type can pull in air around a wheel cylinder cup. Normally this is a problem on an older truck, where you might be working on one wheel only.
    Just my 2 cents worth.
    You can build a pressure bleeder rig outr of scrap 2-4 inch black pipe. Take a section of pipe about 1 foot long, screw a cap on each end. Drill and tap the bottom cap for 1/8 npt brake fitting from your local parts house. Drill 3 holes in the top cap. 1 for a fill plug, 1 for an air fitting, get a 45 psi pop off valve from McMaster Carr for the last hole. This is to prevent over pressurizing things. Use a flexible brake hose to go from the bottom pipe cap to the vent hole on the ,master cyl. hook up an air line from your compressor (shop or truck) with a little in-line air regulator. Fill pipe with brake fluid. Hook to master cyl. pressurize to about 15 psi. bleed away. I added a couple of valves to the one I built years ago to allow me to valve off the air, fluid, etc.
    Use common sense ( we all have some, right?) and you are perfectly OK."


    Bjorn
    Bjorn

    Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.

    1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".

    "Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"

  4. #3
    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    GA Mountains
    Posts
    33,399
    Thanks
    757
    Thanked 10,284 Times in 4,616 Posts

    Default

    Gary, the I've never looked for the MC caps at a supplier. I had several I've kept from MC replacements. I might have one or two more on these trucks in the yard. I did just buy some pressure gauges on Ebay for $3.99 ea. Once I have one installed I'll report back. Bjorn, I can tell you it works great! I replaced the steel line from the tee behind the air pack to the rear axle on that M35A2. Bled the system out and got a great pedal. On the test drive I was doing some crisis braking and found a weak line that burst. This one was from the air pack to the tee. Replaced that one and had to bleed the system again. All toll pumped nearly 1/2 gallon of fluid through the system. Those long 5/16 lines hold alot of fluid. Here's a tip from the old school brake guy. When you open a system on the deuce and you know that the system has air in it. Pick one wheel far away and bleed it untill you get that mass of air out. From there bleed the rest of the system. I see the novice deuce brake bleeding guys don't wait long enough on that first wheel and get the air split up in several lines!
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

  5. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Recovry4x4 For This Useful Post:

    crazywelder72 (05-02-2012), tcruwithme (08-31-2018), Torquewrench (06-12-2016)

  6. #4
    Moderator cranetruck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Meadows of Dan, Virginia
    Posts
    10,375
    Thanks
    118
    Thanked 985 Times in 598 Posts

    Default

    Sounds like a winner. I'll try it myself soon.
    About the cap for the MC, why not drill/tap it and install a fitting that can be capped when in normal use? The vent line would be my first choice, though, like RDM is doing.

    Bjorn
    Bjorn

    Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.

    1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".

    "Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"

  7. #5
    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    GA Mountains
    Posts
    33,399
    Thanks
    757
    Thanked 10,284 Times in 4,616 Posts

    Default

    I have the extra cap and it works great. If I had one cap I would switch that steel vent line with a section of braided and a union or even the air line quick coupler so the vent line is easily removed and the bleeder attached.
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

  8. #6
    Sergeant Major jrosbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Vandalia Illinois
    Posts
    171
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 12 Times in 5 Posts

    Default Bleeder

    Well I built my pressure builder some what like yours. I used brake line instead of the clear line. Also I found a sprayer that had the discharge on the bottom of the tank so now i can just hook it to the top of the master cylinder, fill the tank and let the fluid flow down into the cylinder and hose and let the air bleed out of the hose and cylinder before putting it under pressure, that way you dont force air into the system from the top. Thanks for the idea, it sure beats having the wife sit out there and pump and pump and pump. Thanks!

  9. #7
    4 Star General cbvet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Northwest (Knox) Indiana
    Posts
    1,567
    Thanks
    222
    Thanked 167 Times in 87 Posts

    Default

    Interesting info, at least to me.
    Been thinking about building a pressure bleeder for a long time. You guys have some great ideas, but I'm always looking for a simpler (cheaper) way to do things. I try to use components I'm familiar with, have on hand, or can get for free. Not sure exactly what setup I might make, I did a test.
    I'm certainly no chemist, so I test things in ways I understand.
    A year ago, I put silicone brake fluid in 1 jar, & DOT 3 in another. In each jar, I added a piece of PVC pipe, a piece of CPVC pipe, a cheap plastic ball valve, a piece of clear plasic hose, & a piece of clear braided plastic hose.
    I just came across those jars.
    None of the items have deteriorated at all. I guess you can build a bleeder or reservoir out of just about anything!
    Eric
    Eric
    CBVET "Construimis, Batuimus"

    M813A1 Soft Top, Super Singles
    M35A2 w/w, Hard Top
    M35A2 w/w, turbo, Soft Top, Singles, & steel "riot" box
    M332 Ammo Trailer
    M103 Generator Trailer
    M105 Trailer
    Life Member Veterans of Foreign Wars
    Life Member National Rifle Association

  10. #8
    4 Star General atankersdad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Glen Arm Maryland
    Posts
    1,881
    Thanks
    426
    Thanked 952 Times in 284 Posts

    Default

    I built my pressure bleeder yesterday in less that 5 minutes. I took a new sprayer, cut off the spray nozzle, cut 3 inches of hose and attached a 1/8" nipple. I had to bleed/flush the brake lines on my wrecker, and no one was around. I removed the vent, screwed the cap on the MC, screwing in the nipple and attached the bleebleeder. I pressurized the tank and opened the valve. I noticed the brake pedal was solid. I bled the rt rear cylinder until purple fluid came out. The pedal was still firm. Pumped the tank several times and did the other 3 rear cylinders. Then the front. Bled excess air from the tank, removed the nipple and installed the vent. Started up the wrecker and found I had brakes that would put you through the winshield. Took me less than 15 minutes to flush and bleed the truck. WOW.....I found that you could use the bleeder to also fill the MC with minimal hassles. Very handy tool...

  11. #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
    Posts
    1,544
    Thanks
    269
    Thanked 294 Times in 153 Posts

    Default

    I think I'm going to use the Female air tool type quick connect on the truck side since it is self sealing. And the Male quick connect on the power bleeder side with a quarter turn brass ball valve. I will still need at least one valve on the truck side to isolate the reservoir from the power bleeder. And possibly 2 if the quick connect leaks to isolate it from the system. I'm trying to find one valve that will do both and still be inexpensive.

    Also if anyone is curious the kit from wilwood is 64 dollars and the 4 foot of hose is 11 dollars. You will need a few assorted fitting listed in the pdf that any decent hardware store should carry.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by FireFighterHill; 07-21-2010 at 21:30.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to FireFighterHill For This Useful Post:

    tcruwithme (07-23-2015)

  13. #10
    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    GA Mountains
    Posts
    33,399
    Thanks
    757
    Thanked 10,284 Times in 4,616 Posts

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stumps View Post
    Flushing with DOT5 is not a satisfactory way of removing DOT3 from a brake system. The DOT3 will sink to the bottom of any space, and the DOT5 will float on top. In the wheel cylinders, the bleed valve is on the top of the cylinder (meant for bleeding air), so the DOT 3 will stay in the bottom of the cylinder... and absorb water, and make rust.

    You need to take everything apart, and rinse the DOT3 off with DOT5, and then reassemble.

    -Chuck
    According to the military, it's the only way it should be done!

    See http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...id=file&pid=67
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to Recovry4x4 For This Useful Post:

    tm america (07-23-2010)

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Deuce power steering conversion
    By gringeltaube in forum Deuce Modification and Hot-Rodding
    Replies: 75
    Last Post: 01-29-2015, 20:32
  2. Power steering for Deuce
    By moboy in forum Deuce Modification and Hot-Rodding
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 10-25-2012, 23:15
  3. Turning up the power on a Deuce
    By moboy in forum Deuce Modification and Hot-Rodding
    Replies: 35
    Last Post: 09-08-2007, 21:29
  4. What steering gear to get to add power steering to Deuce?
    By ida34 in forum Deuce Modification and Hot-Rodding
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 04-20-2006, 20:45
  5. Power Bleeder pt2
    By Recovry4x4 in forum The Deuce
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-30-2005, 10:38

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •