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Thread: Deuce Power Bleeder R4x4 Style

  1. #11
    4 Star General Tinwoodsman's Avatar
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    I assembled one today patterned after Recovry4x4. One thing I am still unclear about is what to do when bleeding is complete. If I understand the design, the bleeder tank hose and the hose and tube to the M/C cap will be full. I understand how to deal with the bleeder tank hose using the ball valve. What about the other hose and tube?

  2. #12
    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
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    Hopefully you bought a tank that has a pressure relief. If so, release the pressure, close the ball valve and remove. A small amount will spill when you remove the lines but no biggy. The key is to de-pressurize the tank first.
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

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  4. #13
    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
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    It will have some fluid still in the line and nipple. Once unscrewed from the master cylinder cap, let it drip for a bit. For the most part, you will always have a little dead air space in the reservoir of the master, enough so that most of these drippings will stay in there.

    Edit; let me back up a bit. In my pics if when I built that particular bleeder, it showed the nipple attached to a MC cap. Because of the floor configuration, you cant install it like that. I remove the vent line and screw the 1/8 nipple right into the existing cap.
    Last edited by Recovry4x4; 11-24-2010 at 23:44.
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

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    2 Star General mikey's Avatar
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    Default Pressure bleeder questions

    I built a bleeder, thanks to everyone in this thread, but have a few questions.

    I built this for my first deuce recovery next week. I've never seen an mc cap and don't have one for reference. Could someone direct me to the part, maybe with a link, that I need on the end of the tubing that connects directly to the mc cap and brake cylinders?

    Also, is 1/4" a large enough diameter for the hose?

    Finally, what psi are you actually using to bleed the brakes. I believe I read like 16psi? I tested my setup as high as I could, using water, and the hoses sprayed a bit at 50psi. Below that it was fine.

    As far as the build, I could not get a 1g sprayer with pressure relief valve. Looked at lowes, sears, home depot and ace. Apparently they dont get new sprayers until spring. So, I got the 1g without pressure relief and i used the existing hose for the pressure guage and i added an air tank release valve. I drilled a hole in the bottom for the brake lines.

    thanks all!

    Mikey
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    I'm going to try and manufacture one of these bleeders but I don't have an extra MC cap to use, and I don't have the truck here for reference. Thanks for posting the pictures!

    Can anyone tell me if it is possible to use the existing MC cap on the bleeder once it is constructed? Or, is there a distributor that sells spare MC caps that I can order?

  8. #16
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    you can ues the M/C cap, just plumb into where the vent line goes.

    Just a side note, It takes me less then an hour to bleed the 819 with the pressure bleeder, this is from the time I start getting crap out of the tool box, till it is all put away
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    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
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    The threads in the cap should be 1/8 NPT so you can get a 5" nipple and be in good shape/.
    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

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  11. #18
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    I am going to build a pressure bleeder out of whatever sprayer I can come up with tomorrow, that part seems pretty straight forward. I tried to manually bleed (pump brakes and hold while soldier B bleeds at the wheel) and while reading this thread I noticed people were talking about bleeding at the wheel cylinders? We were bleeding by cracking the line fitting at the wheels enough to allow fluid/air to escape and then retightening. The front axle was a little different and we cracked the 3/4 bolt that held the brake line to the back of the wheel cylinder. Is this the proper method to bleed or is there another easier place?

    Do you have to put brake fluid in the sprayer or can you just build air pressure in the MC with it and effectively bleed the system? Seems redundant to bleed the air out of the sprayer and then bleed the actual brake system.
    1984 M35A2C w/w on 6 Michelin 395 XMLs

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    3 Star General dozer1's Avatar
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    You definetly need brake fluid in the bleeder. The pressure from the bleeder pushes fluid in the MC, not air. That way you wont be re-introducing air to the system. There will be a little pocket of air at the top of the MC, but that is where it will stay as long as fluid is being pushed in. How much fluid do you want in the bleeder? enough so it doesnt start pushing air ever once you get going. A gallon in a 2 gallon sprayer is good and redundant. What remains will be there for the next time.

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    LLM/Member 785 Recovry4x4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sp00n View Post
    Understand the bleeding purpose but never used a power bleeder. Always done the pump method to remove air (also never worked on a 6x6 or air assist system until this truck) Nothing appears to be missing or broken on any of the brake backing plates, just following standard procedure for regular light trucks and passenger cars. Does anyone have a pic of the proper bleed valve?
    Taking the power bleeder out of the equasion, there is almost no difference between the deuce and any other drum brake vehicle except the additional axle and the air pack which has a bleeder valve. Every wheel cylinder has a bleeder valve, if you are bleeding vehicles by cracking open lines, you are missing lots of air. Attached is a simple line drawing of a typical backing plate. Right above the brake line (tube) is the bleeder valve. Opening or in the case of them being plugged, removing them, allows air to be purged from the highest point.

    Adding the power bleeder just eliminates the person pumping. Pressurized brake fluid introduced to the master cylinder, pushes fluid (and trapped air) through the lines and out of the wheel cylinders through the bleeder valve.
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    1986 M1008
    1984 M1031
    1984 M1010

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