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CUCV M1008 - RunAway Starter

Armada

Armada

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When I get a new-to-me cucv I always replace the relay wether it needs it or not. Good insurance. First one I ever owned caught fire from the sticking of the relay and almost burnt to the ground. Pucker factor 10!
 
35Z-SGM

35Z-SGM

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M1028 runaway starter problem. Started with low batteries so I slaved the 1028 with the 1008 to get it started. Moved the 1028 to the shop to charge the batteries. Batteries charged up and it started but starter stayed engaged. Turned of ignition, engine stopped but starter continued to crank! Disconnected batteries but not before a lot of smoke from the roadside alternator and burning out two fusible links!

So far I have replaced the starter relay with the Doghead relay mod, replaced the fusible links, replaced the batteries and tried to start her up. Normal dashboard light sequence but would not start. Louder than normal clicking as if there were a low battery or dirty connection. Went back to check the battery connections and measure the new battery voltages. Voltage on both was 12.57 but I noticed a small amount of molten lead under the negative terminal of the front battery.

Any ideas where to go next? I am thinking that the next step is to replace the starter solenoid on the firewall????

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

ActionStarCBRxx said:
I went to start my M1008 and the starter hung and would not stop. I clicked the key on and off, and it just kept going! Eventually I turned the key off and it actually stopped/killed the truck. There was a real nice smell afterwards that I attributed to the starter. I pulled both the negative leads on the batteries and replaced the starter (batter tested as bad at part store). As soon as I touched the negative terminal to the battery post, there were some sparks, and the truck started turning over as if trying to start (with no key in the ignition). I removed the terminal and stopped. I had my friend slowly charge the battery's overnight. (I confirmed they read 12.6 volts.)

The next day I replaced the ignition switch (on the column). I took the negative and positive leads and posts and cleaned them with a wire brush. I then hooked the starter back up then went to place the negative terminal to the 1st battery (not the terminal that runs to the adjacent batter) and it gave a click like it was trying to engage the starter. It did not turn over just click. I put the second negative terminal on and it sparked... within seconds smoke started appearing what I think is the Engine WRG Harness Block right next to the power steering/master brake cylinder. I disconnected the terminal and got a real pretty arc that blew off about 1/4 of the terminal post.

On the starter I took off/replaced, I did not see a purple wire. There was only one wire on the solenoid.

I pulled the wiring diagram off NY Tactical website (http://www.ny-tactical.com/PDF-Files/StartingCircuit.pdf) so I can start tracing things now.

From looking at previous posts it looks like it may be the following:
1) there may be a purple wire that may be loose swinging around around the engine that is trapped some where? (The truck is new to me so I have no experience or history with it)
2) The starter relay is bad?

What else should I be looking at? Also in which manual would one look to diagnose this?

Your help would be sincerely appreciated!

K
Click to expand...
 
doghead

doghead

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There is no starter solenoid on the firewall.
 
35Z-SGM

35Z-SGM

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Doghead, what I mean to say was the glowplug relay on the firewall. But after correcting my statement I realize this is probably not at fault. I think I will dismount the starter and take a look at it and its wiring.
 
Recovry4x4

Recovry4x4

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There are usually 3 fusible links that fry. Also, my most recent runaway was starter related so that is a great place to start.
 
A

ActionStarCBRxx

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+1 on what Recovery4X4 said.
Take your starter to a repair shop and have them test it (Not the local parts store) Your going to find something is shorted in the starter/soleniod. Do NOT buy a cheap starter off ebay or the parts store. They will not last! Have that starter rebuilt by a reputable repair shop using 24V parts.
When you go back to install the starter, be sure to put the brace back in place. Do not run that starter without the brace.
If you haven't already, upgrade your wires and the clamps that attach to the posts. The starter guy can sell you good battery cables (correct length and size) with good connections. Do NOT run your cable connections loose on the battery terminal. This will cause a short and you will see melted led like your already seeing. IF you see any arcs/sparks when you attach the cables, you have a short somewhere... figure out where it is before you re-attach.

On a side note... If its taking a lot key turning to get the truck to start... get the glow plug and/or air in the fuel system leak resolved. All those extra starts are hard on these starters and will prematurely wear out the bushings.

My starter issues went away when I rebuilt the starter, upgraded the wires and got the truck to start on the 1st try.

Good Luck... we are here if you need help!
K
 
doghead

doghead

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usmcpatriot said:
Starter wont run without power :idea:. Remote starter cut off switch.
Click to expand...
This topic has been beat to death in the past. Research what has been posted and then tell us how to do that.
 
35Z-SGM

35Z-SGM

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Fixed!

Thanks for the assistance! I ordered a replacement starter solenoid from Texas Electric, installed on starter and replaced starter and she started up on the first try. Had to replace fusilble links first, replaced batteries with commercial grade, replaced solenoid... install starter and problem solved.

I love this site.

35Z-SGM said:
M1028 runaway starter problem. Started with low batteries so I slaved the 1028 with the 1008 to get it started. Moved the 1028 to the shop to charge the batteries. Batteries charged up and it started but starter stayed engaged. Turned of ignition, engine stopped but starter continued to crank! Disconnected batteries but not before a lot of smoke from the roadside alternator and burning out two fusible links!

So far I have replaced the starter relay with the Doghead relay mod, replaced the fusible links, replaced the batteries and tried to start her up. Normal dashboard light sequence but would not start. Louder than normal clicking as if there were a low battery or dirty connection. Went back to check the battery connections and measure the new battery voltages. Voltage on both was 12.57 but I noticed a small amount of molten lead under the negative terminal of the front battery.

Any ideas where to go next? I am thinking that the next step is to replace the starter solenoid on the firewall????

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
Warthog

Warthog

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Post up the part numbers from Texas Electric. Always good to verify the numbers we list.

Do you have a direct drive or gear reduction starter?
 
rlltide12

rlltide12

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doghead said:
This topic has been beat to death in the past. Research what has been posted and then tell us how to do that.
Click to expand...
Im going to reply without researching :). Why not a high amp battery cutoff switch in line with the 24v feed going to the starter? Would be a nice piece of mind even with the DH mod. Just brainstorming.
 
Last edited:
A

Andy Galloway

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Canton Mississippi
I have a m1028 having starter problems. once it starts cranking it won't stop. The solenoid is hot all the time even with the key off. Does anyone know what might be wrong or what I should try?
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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DSCF4139.jpgThe starter relay under the dash is stuck. Is this a trick question? It sounds like I am being baited into a starter relay debate. But my way is to just change the $20. relay. Others opinions will differ. Mine is a plug and play. And that is about all I am going to say about that. Back to the barn with me.

PS: Someone told me the relay I have been using pictured is a GM fan/blower relay. IDK. Possible. But I took the part number off of one I had in another truck and they have worked fine for me. 24 years and counting. Nothing is infallible. Nothing.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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The starter relay is directly above the gas pedal. It is in behind where the radio would be on a civilian truck. Good Luck. easy fix. Probably had weak amperage batteries and started hard for a while.
 
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