Air compressor leaking oil

My air compressor seems to be leaking oil inside the engine compartment. I cannot tell where exactly it is coming from since it is putting a mist all over. Does anyone have an idea on where to check and replace gaskets?

Does the compressor have its own oil source or does it feed from the engine oil?
Thanks in advance.

check the oil supply line and base gasket.

it feeds from the engine

Do you have a single or dual cylinder pump? Is the top round or more rectangle shape?

The mounting bracket has an oil passage that feeds from the block up to the base of the pump. The single cylinder has a copper line that feeds to the cylinder. The dual has additional passages. The oil drains back into the block via the mounting bracket.

If you remove the pump DO NOT use RTV sealant to form a gasket. You run the chance of blocking this passage and starving the pump of oil.

On a truck I picked up from GL I had an oil leak I could not find. Ends up someone "drilled" a hole in the case. JB welded a screw into it and no more leaks.

The only gaskets I cound find I got from Memphis. The pump base gasket and the mounting bracket gasket.

Here is a picture of my dual cylinder pump with the extra hole.

This is an interesting question.

I think mine is a dual piston like in the one in the PIC above. After cleaning and running, its seems to get wet around the cylinder head, and the port on the left side first. Tried to snug the bolt up a bit but they all seem tight.
Is there a good source for new gaskets if these can be replaced?

There is a complete gasket rebuild kit including the front seal that you can get from NAPA for the Midland twin. Cost is about $20.
Part number is # RN26GV

Okay, thank!

Just a note: They won't have this set in stock. They will order from the factory. It only took three days to get mine in. When I put my "new (used)" compressor on, the only thing I replaced was the front seal.

If I was less impatient, I would've tore the whole thing down and replaced everything. And I think it comes with everything. Somewhere in there are two little O-rings that come with the set.

Warthog said:

If you remove the pump DO NOT use RTV sealant to form a gasket. You run the chance of blocking this passage and starving the pump of oil.

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Warthog, why not RTV? Excuse my ignorance...I'm just learning here. I have a leak similar to what you're describing and I thought I would just use RTV to re-seal it. But your comment has me thinking. Could you explain what you mean please? Thanks.

Think warthog is sayin not to use rtv cause it could block the little oil passage back to the engine

Meaning when I squirt it on and press it down, it could ooze farther than where it's supposed to stay?

jonmolander said:

meaning when i squirt it on and press it down, it could ooze farther than where it's supposed to stay?

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yes!

JonMolander said:

Meaning when I squirt it on and press it down, it could ooze farther than where it's supposed to stay?

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Meaning don't use it. You can run the gasket dry or I use High Tack from auto parts place just to hold it in place.

Floridianson said:

Meaning don't use it. You can run the gasket dry or I use High Tack from auto parts place just to hold it in place.

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Understand that you can use gaskets dry, but what I meant was why do you need a gasket at all when you can just use a high-temp liquid sealant? Will a liquid sealant break down faster than a replacement gasket set? Will it stand up to the expansion/contraction cycle demand? I'm trying to understand why there is such a market to track down and purchase the specific part number of the designed gasket set when you could make any gasket you need at home in your shop with a Permatex product in a tube.

Please excuse my naivety. I have to ask the dumb questions to find out what I don't know.

I believe what they are getting at with not using RTV is that there are small oil passageways that can and will be plugged when the hardware is tightened and the RTV is forced to displace. If it weren't for the possible blockage of the passageways then there wouldn't be an issue with using RTV.

TB58 said:

I believe what they are getting at with not using RTV is that there are small oil passageways that can and will be plugged when the hardware is tightened and the RTV is forced to displace. If it weren't for the possible blockage of the passageways then there wouldn't be an issue with using RTV.

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Aha. Totally get it now. Thanks fellas.

I have my old compressor in the shed I ll have to look at that.I usually let rtv dry before tightening but glad to know that if I ever have to take mine off.

rat4spd said:

There is a complete gasket rebuild kit including the front seal that you can get from NAPA for the Midland twin. Cost is about $20.
Part number is # RN26GV

Click to expand...

Is there a part # for the single as well on here?

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Slate said:

Is there a part # for the single as well on here?

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Did you look in the spreadsheet in the stickies ?