Deuce door windows

If your door window does not roll down all the way. DO NOT FORCE THEM DOWN Do not ask me how I know this Check the window clips I could only row my driver side door window down four inches. SO STUPID ME I TAKE A BLOCK OF WOOD and HAMMER , and FORCE IT DOWN Good thing I had a spare driver side WINDOW REGULATER as I bent the one in the doo all to H#$L,also had to replace the glass. All because one of the window clips had FAILED

wiggall said:

If your door window does not roll down all the way. DO NOT FORCE THEM DOWN Do not ask me how I know this Check the window clips I could only row my driver side door window down four inches. SO STUPID ME I TAKE A BLOCK OF WOOD and HAMMER , and FORCE IT DOWN Good thing I had a spare driver side WINDOW REGULATER as I bent the one in the doo all to H#$L,also had to replace the glass. All because one of the window clips had FAILED

Click to expand...

Feel your pain. I got a door and stripped it and repainted it. When I got it I think the
glass was intact. After I finally got the the whole cab together and put the top on I found a crack when I rolled the window up.

littlebob said:

Feel your pain. I got a door and stripped it and repainted it. When I got it I think the
glass was intact. After I finally got the the whole cab together and put the top on I found a crack when I rolled the window up.

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At least yours was a crack. Mine was a STAR BURST

Frank, that's as good timing as it gets. My Deuce's passenger window lacks 4 inches rolling down all the way. I have to get inside the door anyway, so I'll fix the window when im repairing the door latch.
Started 'er up again at the disposal yard. Looks like the fuel gauge, amp gauge, and the engine temp don't work. The others are OK.
26 days and counting...

The other thing to watch out for is when rolling the window up. I have seen a couple of trucks now where screws have been put in the doors for various reason and the window will catch it when trying to roll up. All you have to do is wiggle the window back a little bit to get around the edge of the screw.

Those windows are a PITA at best, I never roll mine down past the triangle cause I don't like fixin em.

Anybody have good directions to fix the window? Mine only rolls down about 4 inches and then stops--just like Wiggal's.

I have also had the metal window case get rusty and not let it roll down. Just another thing to check if it is giving you trouble.

Have you priced the new window channels? I was going to replace mine until I priced them. I can't believe they cost that much. I may just have to live with some loose windows.

JC Whitney used to have various "universal" window channels that would fit, at reasonable prices.

Lee in Alaska

I (had) that problem on the drivers side, it would go down until about 5-6-7 inches was still un-lowered, the usual banging on top and all....I found that wiggeling in and out slightly let it roll to the bottom. I had that early on in ownership, took the plate off, looked inside, saw nothing apparently bent or in need of re-bending or stuff, put the plate back and it seemed to cure it-self. I'm sure that the channel that the glass sets in is hanging up on the piece that scizzors close and far, that raises and lowers, thats the only thing it could be. Rather than replaceing, (unless you see some apparent damage) I'd just give it the wiggle and call it good

i also need some window channel for the ds of mine

Fixing your windows

DeuceIsLoose said:

Anybody have good directions to fix the window? Mine only rolls down about 4 inches and then stops--just like Wiggal's.

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Take the cover off the inside of the door (6 screws I believe). Have a look as you roll the window up and down. Do not force it. Odds are the guide that slides in the horizontal channel (maybe both) are jumping out of the slot. That's due to broken or missing clips on the guide post.

Hold the guides in place and roll the window down about half way. Look in the bottom of the door for the missing clips.

Grease the crap out of the slots and the guides, push the guides back through the slots and lock the clips back on to the guide posts (not easy to do- the clip goes on the inside of the mechanism).
Believe it or not, the grease helps keep them on. I found that without the grease, the rust in that area causes friction that pops the clips off in an actuation or two. The grease allows them to slip over the rough areas so it doesn't take as much force to keep them on.

Before you button everything back up, look around for screws that protrude too much and hang on the window or mechanism. This includes the screws that hold the door cover on. I had one "replacement" screw that was way long and kept the window from rolling down more than a few inches.

Hope this helps,

DD

Does anyone know how to fix the vertical channel if it comes loose? This is where the problem with rolling my drivers side window up and down comes from.

What exactly do the clips do?

Thanks.

nofearnohope said:

Does anyone know how to fix the vertical channel if it comes loose? .........

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Get a replacement, most probably it did rust away at the bottom.

Or ..... maybe you could make your own, 1.0mm stainless steel with cheap floor carpet glued in place.... works better than stock and will last longer...

G.

DeuceIsLoose said:

What exactly do the clips do?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Hold the regulator pegs in the window bracket.

I just replaced my clips that had rusted to dust. Grease is also your friend when it comes to the miserable mechanism involved.

now you guys tell me. just fixed my windows last week. when i picked up my deuce the brand new regulators were laying in the bottom of the doors. not installed

MCHoward said:

now you guys tell me. just fixed my windows last week. when i picked up my deuce the brand new regulators were laying in the bottom of the doors. not installed

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That's pretty standard.

Deuces came equipped with spare parts pre-positioned all over the truck...
-Spare regulators in the doors
-Spare lug nuts in the tires
-Spare Con-Rod bolts in the oil pan
-Spare sending units in the gas tank
-Spare gear teeth in the transmission
-Spare muffler bearings in the mufflers
-Spare air in the tires
etc.

This was done so that spare parts would be readily available while in combat zones. Reduces the need for supply trucks to carry spare parts for the fleet.














(just kidding...)