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Thread: MEP-003A hook up question

  1. #11
    2 Star General EO2NMCB's Avatar
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    I know I maybe somewhat stupid, just ask my wife. What if your transfer switch amp and volt is set to say L1 which is 3 phase, reconcet switch is set to 120v 1 phase. What is going to be the output? Yes I know not to do that, but I too am confused in the differance between the 2 switchs.
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    General coyotegray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atankersdad View Post
    Great replies to the post guys. I learn something every time I read a thread like these on here. Thank you.
    Me too!! I become more dangerous every day....

    Andy..
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    General coyotegray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
    Andy the generator frame can and should be connected to a ground rod, the important thing in most transfer switch installations is that the generator neutral to frame ground strap be disconnected so the only neutral to ground bonding takes place at the service entrance. Again this is in most situations.

    Ike
    I checked and neutral is bonded to ground at the gen. I e-mailed my electrition to see if this created an issue with how they installed the cut over switch..
    Thanks,
    Andy..
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    Quote Originally Posted by drjconley View Post
    Sorry for being a little confusing. I was refering to the ammeter voltmeter transfer switch on the generator itself. I already have a transfer switch on my house, but my current generator is way to small. I can set the generator to the setting andy recommended, but I dont understand what the six different settings represent.

    Thanks,
    Jim
    The meter reads the combination of volts between the marked L?-L? and the amps of L?, in the position shown on the photo it is measuring voltage from L1-L3 (Line to Line 240V) and amps on L3, the other 1 phase position measures voltage L3-L0 (so would be one of your 120V legs measuring L3 (L2 for your house) to Neutral).

    Ike

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    I suspect you could have a potentially dangerous ground loop condition if your neutral wire were to be cut or disconnected. If the electrician says its ok like it is, I would get a second opinion just to be safe.

    Ike

    Quote Originally Posted by coyotegray View Post
    I checked and neutral is bonded to ground at the gen. I e-mailed my electrition to see if this created an issue with how they installed the cut over switch..
    Thanks,
    Andy..

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    4 Star General saddamsnightmare's Avatar
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    September 13th, 2009.

    Dear Drjconley:

    In addition to what coyotegray has said above about the hooking up of your generator and the need for a transfer switch, permit me to emphasize the need for the transfer switch. The best transfer switch set-up on your house service entrance would or should, ideally use a no-voltage relay. The relay senses the voltage loss on the commercial power line, and if power is not restored , the relay will drop out and stay dropped out. The transfer switch (No Voltage relay actuated) serves to isolate, or disconnect your house circuits from the public power system, and when it drops out it should connect your generator to your house circuits when you cut the generators main braker on its control panel in. Then you get lights, heat and whatever the generator can drive within its load limits. Some civillian generators are set up to start and automatically connect to your house panel when the transfer drops out.
    You may want to have some indicator light installed by your electrician to sense when power is restored on the public utility sideof the tranfer switch, so you know when power has been restored (you may live so far back in the hills that they have to pipe sunlight in, I don't know if you have other houses visible close by), so you can cut out your generators main breaker and shut it down, then manually restore your line power at the transfer switch.
    The additional purpose of the transfer switch between your house main electrical panel and the public utility and generator driven power supply, is to prevent the public utility, when it restores power, from "Motoring" your generator set. The generator will, if it recieves power from the public utility, attempt to act as an electric motor, and if it does, it will generally destroy your generator's engine, as it's governor will not be able to cut back
    the engine R.P.M's with the generator motoring it. Sure, the idea for the transfer switch is also not to fry a lineman working on the public utility's lines, but it also mechanically disconnects your generator and protects it when the power is restored.

    Just my two cents worth,

    Cheers,

    Kyle F. McGrogan

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    i recently aquired a mep002. i remember i went through this before on hooking up my mep 803 and i removed the nuetral ground strap at the gen. and grounded the frame of the gen. to the ground rod of the house. i was wondering were is the strap is located on the mep002? i guess it might be in the control box

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    4 Star General Nonotagain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbk View Post
    i recently aquired a mep002. i remember i went through this before on hooking up my mep 803 and i removed the nuetral ground strap at the gen. and grounded the frame of the gen. to the ground rod of the house. i was wondering were is the strap is located on the mep002? i guess it might be in the control box
    The ground lug is mounted below the control panel on the frame right beside the slave cable receptacle.

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    General jbk's Avatar
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    are you saying the wire attached to the ground lug from the ac control box is the neutral ground strap?

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    Quote Originally Posted by coyotegray
    So the issue isn't having 2 earth grounds, it's having 2 neutral to ground bonds within the same system...correct..? I would still connect the ground cable running from the power inlet to the generator frame that is also connected to a grounding rod at the generator, but the neutral post should not be connected to the generator frame??

    Thanks,
    Andy..
    Andy and the rest of you guys. I would have jumped into this discussion earlier, but I have been out of town.

    GROUNDING!!!!!!!!! You DO NOT NEED to disconnect the neutral ground of the generator. You also DO NOT NEED to drive a ground rod at the generator! As a matter of fact, you should not drive a ground rod at the generator. The NEC states that only one earth ground shall be installed. This was done at your main service panel when your house was wired and built. You do not drive a second ground rod at the generator, the military does this because these sets are the main power source out in the field. They are not the main power source in your home.

    To install them properly, you should be running 4 wires from the generator to the transfer switch/hook-up spot in your house. Two of those wires should be the two "hot" legs of the generator, one wire should be the "neutral" from the generator, and the last wire should be a continuous unbroken ground going back to the grounding bus in the main panel. You could also do as Ike suggested and isolate the neutral bond at the frame of the generator and then drive a second ground rod. This is safe to do, but depending on your electrical inspector you still may have a tough time getting it to pass muster, because as I've stated the NEC specifies only one (1) ground rod shall be driven!

    The reason for only having one ground rod is this. If you look at your main electrical panel you will notice that the neutral buss and the ground buss are bonded together, they are essentially (electrically) the same buss. If you drive a ground rod at the generator and do not remove the neutral bond, you now have two (2) pathways for the neutral current to get back to the generator, the neutral wire and the earth ground because of the second ground rod you drove....this is a big NO NO!!!! The current will parallel the two pathways and now the earth ground becomes a current carrying conductor, and as per the NEC this as a violation. The ground shall NEVER be a current carrying conductor. If you feel better doing as Ike sugested, you can go to the trouble of disconnecting the neutral bond on the generator and driving a ground rod, but if you want to go according to the NEC, that is still not a proper installation, is it safe? Yes!

    If you have not hooked up the generator yet, save yourself the trouble and hassels, and just run the 4th wire (the ground) back to your panel and do it the easy way. If you have 4 wires going from the generator to your house already, leave the ground wire hooked to the generator frame and remove the one going to the second ground rod (just be sure the neutral bond is connected to the frame).
    Last edited by Speddmon; 09-08-2012 at 22:22.
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