How to turbo a 6.2 using 6.5 parts

When I went to start the turbo project on my 84 cucv blazer I saw that there were many questions on how to turbo a 6.2, but no way of showing how to do it. So I decided to document my process and create a pictorial tutorial. I will probably add more as I remember more. Keep in mind I am 17 years old and I am just a back yard mechanic.


Materials
Borg-Warner GM-x series turbo
Intake manifold
Upper intake manifold
Drivers side exhaust manifold
Two exhuast manifold gaskets for 6.2 diesel motor.
Five 90mm 10m x1.5 studs
Five 10m x1.5 nuts
Three 70mm 10m x1.5 bolts
Pressure (boost gauge)
Oil lines ( got this kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0213047694&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT )
A turbo master or stuff for building one
Pb blaster
Small block chevy fuel pump block off plate
Electric fuel pump (and a prefilter for it)


The first step for me started about a week before the turbo was set to come in. I sprayed all bolts that I thought I would be removing with pb blaster. The main bolts I was concerned about were the exhaust manifold bolts. For my set up I will only be removing the passenger side manifold. Only one bolt was loose after 2 days of soaking, I stress that patience is the most important part in this step. Do not force the bolts or you will break them and be left with more problems that you need. I used only a 6 inch 3/8 drive ratchet with minimal force for this entire process. By the sixth day with liberal coatings of pb blaster six of the eight bolts were loose and could be removed easily. The other two were still firmly seated, I used a mapp gas torch to heat the portion of the bolt between the manifold and the head. After several repeats of this process all of the bolts were loose and ready for removal.


Next of course is the removal of the exhaust manifold and the exhaust system. Start by removing the exhuast system, you will pretty much need a sawzall or a cutting torch or this could take a while. I left the drivers side manifold and about 6 inches of pipe. If you plan to have a professionally made crossover I would recommend removing the whole system.


I didn't do it in this order but if I would do it again I would do it this way. Remove the mechanical lift pump (this will be much easier to do with out the manifold in the way). I got a shiny chrome fuel pump block off plate for a small block chevy from my local parts store. Note: the top two supplied bolts will work but you will have to reuse your bottom bolts from the lift pump. I used a oil return line from the kit I bought here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0213047694&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I drilled a 5/8ths hole in the middle of the block off plate and the included gasket with a drill press and threaded the two sides of a fitting to get this:





Also install the oil return plate on the turbo (included with the above kit). And the long angled blue arm.





When I removed my exhaust manifold the bolts were in pretty bad shape so I decided to chase the threads on the head. I used a 10Mx1.5 tap to smooth out all of the threads for the new bolts.





In my case I actually welded a piece to my manifold, again, have it done professionally or do something less jimmy-rigged than mine .


The next step is to install the manifold using your five 90mm 10m x1.5 studs and three 70mm 10m x1.5 bolts. The short bolts will be used on the first three wholes closest to the radiator and the studs will be used on all the remaining wholes. Before you install carefully bend all glowplug tabs upwards (towards the hood). Also a few tricks: Use some silicone rtv to hold the two gaskets together and in place on the manifold. I also used a little on all of the bolts and studs so they would not slide down when I was trying to install. This job can be simplified with two people, I didn't have that luxury.












Now before you get carried away installing the turbo, take your time to either make a turbo master or to install one that you have bought. I just welded a piece of all thread to the shaft, used a strong compression spring, and a nylon locking nut. Maybe cost 3 dollars.





Now it is time to install the turbo. It is pretty much self explanatory, line up the 4 holes and the tighten all nuts to a good snug and even torque.





You can go ahead and install your oil return line completely now. Take the tape off the end of the line so it will expand and you can fit it over your compression fitting.





Now is time to install your lower intake manifold, not much to it just time consuming. While it is off go ahead and turn up your fuel pump ¼ turn. I always turn my pumps up through the top, do what ever what you find is easier.

Install the upper part of your intake. Note, on turbo400 equipped vehicles you will run into clearance issues with the vacuum modulator on the side of your injection pump. I just rotated my all of the way out of the way. My shift points are now a little high, but not to bad. You can also install your fittings for a manual boost gauge.

View attachment 500922









Install the rubber connector between the turbo and the support bracket. Tighten hose clamps down snug. Install support brace between the two.





Install turbo heat shield and brace from intake manifold.


[URL="http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll108/mmcgeorge/Turbo%20Project/IMGP3121.jpg%5B/IMG"]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll108/mmcgeorge/Turbo%20Project/IMGP3121.jpg[/IMG[/URL]]


The oil line provided in the kit shown above has a 1/8npt male fitting so you can install it on the driver side rear of the engine where you can also install a mechanical temperature gauge. The female end uses a -4AN fitting. AN fittings a self sealing and don't need teflon tape. You will need some kind of fittings and adapters to make this work.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]500944._xfImport[/ATTACH]
[IMG]http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll108/mmcgeorge/Turbo%20Project/IMGP3119.jpg


The rest of the project is installing an electric fuel pump, I installed mine on the passenger side outer frame rail. Make sure you use an inline fuel filter before the filter. I just used a small gas one in a circular canister.


The hardest part is the end; the exhaust. I welded together a cross over, it doesn't look good but it is functional. I went below the drive shaft because with a turbo400 the clearance is very tight. I lost a little bit of ground clearance and hope to have a professionally made one put in when funds recover.

I was at the MD SS camp out and weekend party last nite and a member was talking about doing this exact thing to his 6.2. This will be helpful. Thanks for taking the time to document this to the level that you did. It is great that we can share things like this worldwide and the touch of a enter key and then attach photos. Good job. This post needs to go into a wiki by itself...

Great party hosted by Bob. Its still going on. There SS guys took over the upper pasture, set up camp. The big party and bon fire was last nite. We had lots and lots of deep mud. His 1/4 mile driveway was lined with cars. The civilians at the party would stop be amazed when someone would roll in past the farm house in a great big green or tan truck and plow throught the field of mud to get to the campsite. I will post more on the camp out page.

i will be doing this as well

Nice write up. If anyone needs one, I will have a factory 6.5 intake for sale next week....

why did you remove the mechanical pump is it necessary for the install

It is not necessary, but it is the easiest way to drain the oil from your turbo. You could also weld a bung on to your oil pan.

So do you remove the pump to get access for an oil return line?
Have you driven it since adding a turbo? Can you tell any difference? How does it sound.

Yes you remove the pump to put a block off plate that you send the oil through. I have noticed a huge change in power. The engine itself is much quieter (coming from straight piped) but that turbo whistle makes it sound like a semi.

Cool, checked mileage yet?

My fuel gauge doesn't work and the majority of my driving takes place offroad, gravel roads so I can't tell you for sure.

man a banks kit was such an easier process then what it sounds like you had to go threw. mine wasnt nearly as involved as that seemed.. wonder if your pulling more power from your though being you used a 6.5 mani.

I think our power is probably really close, I mean were both only pushing 10 lbs of boost and we are running the same amount of fuel. Yeah I knew a banks kit would be a lot easier, but I couldn't afford it and I always enjoy a little challenge.

TFE,
Like many others on this board, I am slowly amassing parts for my 6.5 turbo swap and I also have a question.

After browsing through some of the posts on the diesel page, some guys said that the clearance between the turbo and the injector lines is a tight fit. Some possible fixes for this problem would be to either use the injectors and lines off a 6.5, or make a 1/4" spacer to fit between the exhaust manifold and the head; did you do either of these?

You have any clearance issues with the injector lines hitting the turbo? Got any detailed clearance pics you would care to share?

Thanks,
James

I used two exhaust manifold gaskets to gain the clearance I needed. Using both gaskets, all of my lines and injectors clear everything fine.

Mike,
Thanks for the write up. I think you used hyperlinks instead of just attaching the image. If you attach the image we can see a thumbnail then click on it for a full size. That is one of the cool things on this site. Loading photos are easy. I have always thought about doing this conversion and I am always on the look out for a cheap 6.5 turbo to rob the parts from. I also halfheartedly been looking for a banks. Since my son drives the cucv now I really do not have too much motivation to do it right now.

Couple more questions while I'm at it,
What about the CDR valve, did you change it per the turbo parts, did the turbo manifold have provisions to hook it up?

On your exhaust exit from the turbo, did you route it outside the frame or did you have enough room to keep it inside the frame, any pics?

Did the turbo clear the stock battery provisions or did you have to relocate or trim the trays?

Thanks again,
James

I have the stock cdr, I put it infront of the airfilter so it would still vent normally, but it would re enter the engine. I have a piece of 3 inch pipe welded to the turbo for now. There was not enough room to go inside the frame. You have to remove the rear battery.

If anyone could help out:

I am looking to buy about the first 6 inches of a stock 6.5 downpipe for use with my gm 4 turbo. I need it basically just for the flange to finish my turbo project. I could also use the clamp.

Thanks,
Mike

The 4 inch exhaust I built. I have a piece of flex pipe that comes from the turbo. I will add installed pictures soon.