M109 camper conversion

poppop said:

Kenny, are you talking swapping axles or just The actuating systems?? You could hook the air diaphram to the existing Duece master cylinder and then plumb the emergency line to the tanks on the 109. Then it would be just like pushing the petal with your foot, but you still would not have split brakes. The 105's don't have an airpac, so would the 105 system have as much braking power as the Duece system?? I can see the advantage of doing away with the airpac if the brakes are just as good.

Mdmorgan, if you do away with the airpac I would be interested in buying it if it works or is rebuildable and you don't want it.

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I don't see the point in the extra work to swap brake systems, even if it would be better. The original brakes would stop the 109 fully loaded and it will NEVER see that much weight again, I would have to destroy another 105 trailer and I don't like the idea of tearing apart good equipment, I have split brakes on my deuce so the backup is there, and i'm going to go through both brake systems and do what maintenance is required to make them reliable.

Now thats just my take on it, i know you guys have been doing this stuff alot longer than I, so any suggestions are noted, and please don't take offense if i don't want to or decide not to do something suggested.

poppop,
The 105's do have an air resevoir, it's just not very big. I might have some parts if the conversion is made to use two 105 brake systems.

Lloyd, I was just talking about swapping the brake actualting system. I prefer the 2 seperate systems for safety issues but heck, look at the trucks we drive. MD, if you keep the existing brake system, I would consider adding a relay valve and using the air tanks on the 109 chassis. This will elimiate the delay between the truck and trailer brake actuation.

Recovry4x4 said:

Lloyd, I was just talking about swapping the brake actualting system. I prefer the 2 seperate systems for safety issues but heck, look at the trucks we drive. MD, if you keep the existing brake system, I would consider adding a relay valve and using the air tanks on the 109 chassis. This will elimiate the delay between the truck and trailer brake actuation.

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How do you mean? i have'nt dug into the brake system so i'm not real familiar with how they work yet.

When you just add an airline to the airpack, there is a delay in the brake actuation as the air flills and pressurizes the line from truck to trailer. A relay valve uses a small amt of air to trigger the release of air that is already on the truck using the existing air tanks and an emergency line supplying the air to the tanks. Result would be faster reacting brakes and I'd guess maybe a little more brake power.

Recovry4x4 said:

When you just add an airline to the airpack, there is a delay in the brake actuation as the air flills and pressurizes the line from truck to trailer. A relay valve uses a small amt of air to trigger the release of air that is already on the truck using the existing air tanks and an emergency line supplying the air to the tanks. Result would be faster reacting brakes and I'd guess maybe a little more brake power.

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oh ok i understand what your saying, any suggestions as to what relay to use? only relays i know anything about are electric.

Thanks Kenny for the info on the m105 brake set up. I was going to say that but you beat me to it.
Vinny

ok time for an update. got the t-case, pioneer rack, battery box off and due to some warping i started pulling the wood floor, and speaking of the floor i'll let the pics speak for themselves

The entire metal subfloor will need to be replaced and a few of the ribs need to be repaired.

Do you really need that metal subfloor for what you are going to use it for? What would be wrong with using 3/4 treated plywood for the subfloor?

Wait, I just thought of a problem, most modern treated wood is corrosive to metal. If you used it on those metal ribs they would have to be protected someway.

Yeah thats why i was going to replace the subfloor then use the plywood, but i'm a long ways from even thinking about that yet, got half of the interior wall panels removed so i can fix holes and leaks in the outside skin and every time i take something off i find more rust and watersoaked insulation. if i would have known it was going to be this rotten i would have waited for one in better shape, but you live and learn, plus i'll have plenty of stuff to use to teach the wife how to weld

wow i love it your wife is getting into working on it to soon you will have to buy her one toya i think they all leak at least when you're done with it you will know what you have and it will be new from top to bottomkeep up the good work

yeah its one of the reasons i wanted to get it, so we could build it together. and its already to late when she bought me my deuce for our anniversary i said "let me buy you one, we could have his and hers, their cheap, come on" she was like we don't "need" another one. now its, i want a bobbed deuce and something with tracks! so now i'm like !!!

good catch get her a m114everyone wins with that one

thats kinda heavy, i showed her a pic of a m29 weasel and she liked that, plus i could haul it around in the deuce

Cool project, sent you a pm.

Well now that its starting to warm up a little we've gotten back at it. We've removed all interior panels and insulation, got the rest of the floor cut out(new plasma cutter is the bomb diggity,lol) cut out the 4 ribs above the axles to fasilitate the removal of the chunks as seen here. as far as the rest of the body goes, still trying to find where the rust stops.

I found with mine that once I pulled all of the interior panels that the rust did not end. I will try to grab some pictures of the floor now. I cut out the rusted areas and welded in new steel. Rolling some of the roof sealant on the floor as a bit of extra waterproofing and noise insulation and then new plywood. I swear that the guy who designed these boxes must have had the concession for screws.

WOW You went all out.. Looking good. I`m sure it will turn out great. You guys can handle it.. >>>>>>>>>>>> You want to do mine next ????

Neil

I am putting a 1/4" steel plate floor in mine currently( I already removed the wood floor and what was left of the rusted steel below ...I couldn't imagine having to remove the inner skin on the walls though. I was going to put in a raceway for all of my pipes on the edge of the wall longways down the truck. I think I am right but doesn't the floor hold the entire box to the frame ribs?