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Thread: Adding Detroit Lockers???

  1. #21
    4 Star General quickfarms's Avatar
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    Good info

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    General RANDYDIRT's Avatar
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    I run a Grizzly locker in the rear of my bobber, and I love it. I plan on putting one in the front soon. I think it was about $400 or so.

    Dirt
    1974 M109A3 Bobber (Old No. 7)

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    Sergeant BackWoodsDrifter's Avatar
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    Have detroit lockers front and rear in my K30, drives like a grizzly bear with the hubs locked in! really like the detroits was looking to do this with my duece if i ever bobbed it. seen the grizzly's sold by yukon which is another name i would trust too. Prolly run an arb in the front next time though. Wouldn't own a rig without a locker in the rear been doing so since I've been driving. Comes winter time just steer with the a$$ end.
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    2 Star General TacticalDoc's Avatar
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    still new to all of this but wouldnt you want more traction in front.

    It seems that the front end is the weak point since it has the least amount of grip where rubber meets road and most weight.

    also with lockers and lock outs in front the wouldnt be working unless you switch to all wheel drive and lock it in.


    ARBs seem like a more complex system also

  5. #25
    4 Star General spicergear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unforgiven View Post
    I knew detroit lockers slipped initially but I was unaware of continued slipping during off road use. Good points....


    You know the ARB's would still need stronger axles.
    This is a misleading post. Detroits do not slip and continue slipping. When the rear axle is being powered by the driveshaft the Detroit is LOCKED...and that's that. Kenny is right that with good driving they can be very tame. I ran then for years with no problems IN ROCKS on the street. When say you're decelerating and the rear axle has input from the tire slowing the truck, the Detroit is open. Approach a tight turn and lift and make you're turn politely. You will eat up tires if you drive aggressively has the locker will spend more time engaged. These axles are pretty tough and usually 48" to 53" will start stressing them along with a heavy foot. I've pounded these axles with 46" XML's and no sweat on the stock stear axle. I did have Ouverson double splined shafts and drive flanges on the rear.

    Detroits are easy to install, just all the parts are heavy. Mark the side lash adjustment nuts (the ones that are threaded into the side of the caps about 4" diameter) so they'll get back in the same place, cut the lock wire and attack it with an impact gun.

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    Sergeant Major monkster's Avatar
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    My M35a2 has a plack stating lockers installed ; injury and or death can result from jacking up one wheel.
    M35 w/w
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  7. #27
    4 Star General spicergear's Avatar
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    That's because the axle could be loaded and VERY sprung. You jack it up like that or have a lug tool on it and that thing spings it would be like getting your thumbs caught in a backspinning steering wheel!!!

    [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQ1yMBR7w4Q[/media] Youtube vid on the Detroit Locker No-Spin...what we install...how it works.

  8. #28
    2 Star General TacticalDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spicergear View Post
    That's because the axle could be loaded and VERY sprung. You jack it up like that or have a lug tool on it and that thing spings it would be like getting your thumbs caught in a backspinning steering wheel!!!

    [media]] Youtube vid on the Detroit Locker No-Spin...what we install...how it works.

    again I'm new to this...

    the lockers would be under tension and rotates when lifted? why?

    if you have lock out hubs it wouldn't be under tension if you lock them out before lifting - right?

    I'm thinking of getting lockers/lockout hubs for my front wheels but need to do A LOT more research like learning how to drive with lockers.
    Last edited by TacticalDoc; 01-25-2012 at 17:07.

  9. #29
    4 Star General spicergear's Avatar
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    Lets say you pull into your parking spot by turning into it and your hubs are locked in and your Detroit quietly in action. When you turn one tire turns faster than the other-- with the locker they turn the same speed so axle parts have to take up some of that rotation. Usually it will build to a certain point then the tire will spin, hence chirping sounds sometimes in locked rear axles going around turns in like say a muscle car. You however have over 7,000lbs on the front axle and just turned in and the tires haven't effectively had a chance to try and squirm that sprung tension through the shafts and locker anywhere and you parked it. You won't be able to unlock the hub because there will be so much tension on all parts from hub to hub. Driving forward and back a truck length in a straight line will usually relieve the tension enough to allow the hub to unlock. Jacking up one tire s..l..o..w..l..y.. will help as you can allow it to slowly rotate a little and let the pressure off. If you jack it up real quick and it unloads quickly you could ask for other problems. Usually when a lockout hub won't unlock it's because there's pressure like this on it from the axleshaft. It's actually pretty simple stuff just take a moment to absorb as there's a bit going on.

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  11. #30
    2 Star General TacticalDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spicergear View Post
    Lets say you pull into your parking spot by turning into it and your hubs are locked in and your Detroit quietly in action. When you turn one tire turns faster than the other-- with the locker they turn the same speed so axle parts have to take up some of that rotation. Usually it will build to a certain point then the tire will spin, hence chirping sounds sometimes in locked rear axles going around turns in like say a muscle car. You however have over 7,000lbs on the front axle and just turned in and the tires haven't effectively had a chance to try and squirm that sprung tension through the shafts and locker anywhere and you parked it. You won't be able to unlock the hub because there will be so much tension on all parts from hub to hub. Driving forward and back a truck length in a straight line will usually relieve the tension enough to allow the hub to unlock. Jacking up one tire s..l..o..w..l..y.. will help as you can allow it to slowly rotate a little and let the pressure off. If you jack it up real quick and it unloads quickly you could ask for other problems. Usually when a lockout hub won't unlock it's because there's pressure like this on it from the axleshaft. It's actually pretty simple stuff just take a moment to absorb as there's a bit going on.


    lockers seem to be a pita maybe I go with ARBs

    ah and the video wasnt working for me at work
    Last edited by TacticalDoc; 01-25-2012 at 20:25.

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