The way I install a block heater

First I started draining the coolant; next I disconnected the batteries then removed the air filter housing. I could see the most rear freeze plug that needed to remove, then loosened the solenoid bracket for some room.
Then removed the freeze plug, I installed the Kat’s 600 watt heater. Part #11611. Zerostart part # is 3500025, and it is 1000w. The only reason I used Kat’s was because of the price.
Replaced coolant and air filter.
This install took less than an hour and I had to fish the freeze plug out of the block.

Looks good. What made you decide to go this route over putting it into the water pump?

I have never removed a freeze plug, how did you remove it? Where did you get the Kats heater from?

Please forgive my ignorance but how are the frost plug heater secured in the block? Is it just a friction fit?

coolnick73 said:

Please forgive my ignorance but how are the frost plug heater secured in the block? Is it just a friction fit?

Click to expand...

Depends on the style. Usually they have a nut on them that when tightened it expands into the space. Others have a clamp that grips the inside. Freeze plugs come out very easily. They provide a weak spot in the block so if pressure builds from water freezing or steam build up it blows the plug instead of cracking the block.

Stock core plugs are pressed in steel. They are not designed to protect the block, they are only there to support the cores during casting, also providing access to remove the thermally decomposed cores.

The easiest method to remove them is a slide hammer. Drill a hole in the middle, thread in the screw tip (dent puller) and yank.

I have poked a hole in them with a screwdriver and then just bent the screwdriver over to pop them out.


sw

I just did the same thing to my deuce, but I used two 600W heaters meant for a 4.0L jeep engine. I used the 2nd freeze plug hole from each end to get them somewhat spaced evenly and allow even block heating.

Freeze plugs knocked out easily with a punch and hammer at one edge... As that edge goes in, and the opposite edge comes out, you grab the plug and pull it out with channellocks. (Don't keep hammering until they fall in!!)

The heaters I used had to have some help getting the o-ring in, but once it was all in, they haven't leaked a drop. With only one plugged in, it starts easily at 20F on 50% WMO/Diesel. I did add a splash of gas for volitility, but I don't know how much that helped. I got a stick-on oil pan heater to help out too. Only 150 watts, but better than nothing.

So far as I can tell, there's plenty of room for block heaters behind all the freeze plugs, in case anyone cares, and if you're going to leave it plugged in all the time, one is sufficient for normal temps unless you live in ND or MN. I used two so it would heat faster if I want to get it going sooner.

C

(quote)..Looks good. What made you decide to go this route over putting it into the water pump?

I choose this one because of how it is used to heat the block. The location of this kind of heater is in line with the coolant flow that goes from back to front of motor. I do not have to heat the water pump and other bulk items on the front of the motor. I am only interested in getting the motor started and let it do the rest from there.

I have never removed a freeze plug, how did you remove it? Where did you get the Kats heater from?
I used a hammer and screwdriver and hit the bottom to rotate it to pull it out. I used too big of a driver and knocked it inside of the motor and had to fish it out. I like the idea of a slide hammer, next time.
Amazon you can get the heater for $15.

I have poked a hole in them with a screwdriver and then just bent the screwdriver over to pop them out.

These are thick you will not poke a hole in them.

Please forgive my ignorance but how are the frost plug heater secured in the block? Is it just a friction fit?

These use the butterfly method.

Temperature update: I plugged in the heater this morning at 7am. Took readings in various places to see what was getting heated.
The heater was installed in the rear 2” plug hole. I took readings 1” left of the 2nd plug from top to just under the plug. I also took readings on the front of the right side block on one of the dimples sticking out, and also on the left rear head between 5th and 6th injector.
The truck had not been driven for 15 hours temp only dropped to 25F with very little wind.
Temp started in every position at 43F.
8AM temps had risen to 67F at the 2nd plug, 52F at the front, and 54F at the head.
9AM temps had risen to 70F at the 2nd plug, 61F at the front, and 60F at the head.

At the end of temp check the oil pan was still at 43F.

Usually it will take 20 seconds with similar temps to start, this time it took 6.
So this is success for me. I am happy with the results and this is a 600w heater.
My goal was for shorter starting time, now for a ghetto prelude.
This fix cost me less than $15.

Very interesting and informative results.
Thanks for your effort.

Thanks for posting,

I am about this way of heating the block, in my opinion, this is the correct way, I have the water pump heater installed, and do not like it at all !, I don't need to heat the water pump, or the front part of the motor, I want the core of the block warm . Thanks Again

Good data right there! I hope to take some temp readings on mine when I get a chance (most likely next weekend). Maybe it will be cold enough for some good results.