Winch broke

While today I went to see if I could move the trucks from there snow grave. I thought great today I will use the new deuce w/winch. Found good tree, hooked up got in the cab 1st gear winch in low things were going great. I thought wow this is cool glad I bought a winch truck. Then all went wrong load snap the cable went limp, so I thought I snaped the sheer pin. Went out to look and froud gear oil all over the ground. Look at the pto shaft and found that the winch shaft sheer pin was still in and not broke. So I got even madder shouldnt the sheer pin snaped to stop this from working. So I went and pulled the pin and found that some morron put in a pice of chrome hardend round bar. Now because of some ones time saver I now need to tear apart my winch and try to find the parts I need.
John

Sorry to hear that I hope its not to costly.

wow that really sucks . hope you dont need a whole winch . .i think it would be cool as heellll to have a slip clutch on the winch rather than a shear pin .kind of like they have on bush hogs and tillers

Note to self. Check what kind of pin is in my winch before I try mine out !!

Out of curiosity, which parts failed and leaked gear oil? - was it the PTO assembly or the gearbox on the winch itself? I don.t have a winch truck but have a winch to mount eventually and need to learn as much as I can thanks for sharing your story.

that is a good thought frodo.. i dont have a clue as to what is in mine.. an i dont have any spares.. need to order some up

x-ray said:

Out of curiosity, which parts failed and leaked gear oil? - was it the PTO assembly or the gearbox on the winch itself? I don.t have a winch truck but have a winch to mount eventually and need to learn as much as I can thanks for sharing your story.

Click to expand...

While I don't know what happened here, usually the worm screws itself out of the case.


Reminder--- Everybody check your shear pins .

You have to ask yourself why they replaced the shear pin with hardened stock? It may be that there was something wrong with the winch causing it to shear pins right and left and somebody got sick of dealing with replacing them.

Sorry to hear about your disaster.

This is one of those things that has been talked about at great length in various MV publications and club newsletters; when you get a new truck, always check that the shear pin is of the correct material.

Could it be that the winch had other problems and broke pins frequently and that's why someone put in a steel pin? Possible, but I think it's much more likely that some dufus broke the pin and didn't know any better or examine the pin itself and determine it was aluminum. I suspect they grabbed whatever was handy and made a makeshift pin to continue using the winch. If this wasn't so common, it wouldn't have been mentioned in so many articles over the years. It is a great lesson - always check the pin before using the winch. I'm just sorry that your lesson was so costly.

It is easy for us to say that whoever did this is a doofus, just remember that an Army soldier's main focus is to accomplish the mission! You do whatever it takes equipment be dammed.I know this from personal experience, I drove a lot of equipment to failure while in the Army, in the perfect world(our world) you would stop, take corrective action and fix the problem the right way sometimes soldiers don't have that choice, the equipment you use is a tool nothing more.

This does not mean you don't take care of your equipment, just remember that Private Snuffy might have had to make a Macgyver fix in the field to accomplish his mission and it was never corrected, good idea to check those shear pins.

What usually fails here is the aluminum housing on the worm side will crack open like an egg. To me it seems the aluminum pin breaks far before 10,000 lbs of pull is achieved. I use a grade 2 bolt (no markings on the head) and no exploded winch yet. I have broken the bolt many times.

Perhaps it should be on the inspection list for anyone with a winch I know It will be when I have one.

Yes it is a big pain in the a__ looking at the winch it is the side that has the shaft.It split wide open not ever having one apart when it warms up I will pull it and take pics of the teardown and repair, and post it here.
John

Here is a thread that will tell you all you ever wanted to know about shear pins. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/7948-winch-shear-pins.html?highlight=winch+shear+pins

Gringeltaube did alot of research on this and made a list of different pin materials and their breaking strength.

i also have a grade two in mine i havent broken the pin yet .i put the correct nos pins in it i broke 4 of them just trying to wind my winch cable up in flat ground using the brakes for resistance

TM, maybe there are some other issues there. I can drag my 20,000# M108 with the brakes locked and this with a single part line. Maybe the holes are wallered out or something. Pulled a stump a few months back and used the M35A2 as an anchor behind the 108, rigged a 2 part line and started moving both trucks before the stump began to work.

ya i think they might have been the cheap chinese parts sold as nos. they had the same effect in gimpys winch when i was stuck at haspin. i gave them to him to try us as we were breaking alot of pins getting me out with three trucks and all using snatch blocks.

So did any one look at the list that was posted in post 14? all the steel bolts he tested were 5/16 dia. Of couse its going to have double the shear load of the stock GI issued shear pins.
The steel bolts he turned down to the correct size would be good for the winch and not let it over load tot he point of horrible destruction. The reason for using aluminum as the shear is so the shaft and yoke are not damaged by the violent shock and gualing when using steel. I would say that drilling the shaft out and using the 5/16 pin would be the way to go if the holes in your shaft and yoke are damaged. I know mine has a bolt pounded in it. I have not pulled any thing with it yet and wont for some time but will have the pin changed out before the use of the winch. Has any one tried using a mild steel pin? It is softer than even a crapy grade 2 bolt.


I am understanding now why all the later trucks use fluid powered winches.

broke winch

email snoop7979@aol.com
i have a m365a2 with a winch that now will only pull the weight of a person but put any more on it only groans and does move at all will a winch with a broken sheer pin pull a person but nothing else and were is the sheer pin if thats it changed at snoop7979@aol.com

Snoop, that is entirely possible. There may be just enough friction on the shaft and yoke to spin the drum without resistance. TM, PM me your address, I have some pins for you to try!