• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

MEP-005 Fuel Injection Pump

Ray70

Well-known member
2,331
4,932
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Well, not sure what I did but I threw the whole thing back together again, putting a pressure gage in the plugged port on the bottom of the vane pump end cap. Tried to test for pressure and noticed nothing on gage but after several attempts at cranking I heard a slight sputter to the engine. Eventually I got it running! Now I'm getting a pressure reading on the gage when running.
Of course, NOW I have an oil leak near where the lower right corner of the front cover meets the corner of the oil pan and the front corner of the block. Although the motor never really ran with all that diesel in the oil, I suspect it has damaged an oil seal somewhere.
Time to download the TM for the White 289 and see what I'm dealing with now.
At least it's running again!
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,672
21,586
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Ray,

Was writing a long thing about the IP when you posted again. Oh well, fingers needed the exercise.

Are you talking about Figure 79, Cover, Item #8 and gasket, item #10? If so, then go ahead and order the front main seal, item #11. Might as well, cheap insurance. The white engines, for the 15 and 30 KW were notorious for leaking. Mainly from front and rear (figure 78, item 11) main seals. If you do the oil pan also. Figure 77, item numbers 5, (X2) and 6, (X2). And, a real sharp eye would also see, that all these parts are part of a kit, 5330-01-022-7993. The 7993 is the big gasket kit. It has it all in it. If you do the oil pan, be advised to use some sort of glue or a tacky substance to keep the side gaskets on the pan. The rubber end gaskets also can sometime be a PITA to keep in place. So we used weak spray on tacky crap, to keep them in place also. As me how I know.

Also, when putting the pan back on, and I know I don't have to remind you, but for the benefit of others who might read this, screw all the bolts in by hand, but not snug. Wait until all are in, then snug them up, kinda like a head gasket. Not all one side at once. Or not all one end and then the other. From side to side, like a head gasket. The pans can sometimes warp, or not go on just right, and LEAK. As me how I know.

We had so many of these leakers, that we decided to replace every 15 KW gen set in a battalion, (about 50) the front, rear, oil pan, and IP seals, along with a raft of other seal and gaskets. And on about 25%, was wasted time for the mains. The engines had been around so long, and "quick" overhauled at Tooele, Utah so poorly, that no one noticed that the cranks, in the main seal area were worn. So the new seals would start leaking again in 100 hours operation.

Two of my "problem children" were the Master Engine Removal Team. Those two boys could start a job, and 90 minuets later, the engine was hanging from the chain hoist. Poetry in motion. It was the only thing that kept me from tossing them out of the Army. And they were turbine repair guys. There is, or was, two different seal kits, the 7993 kit, and another one, smaller, but has the gaskets and seals for just the bottom of the engine. The kit is not in the TM. The only reason I know,is because we went and stood on the desk of the TROSCOM, (Troop Support Command) boss in El Paso and he got it for us. I can not remember the number. As it was smaller, cost less. The overhaul kit, 7993 is, or was about 200 bucks. The NSN has been replaced by NSN 5330-01-045-4162. Part # 40-3094660. In the TM, the part number has an "A" at the end. That's a mistake, TYPO.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,331
4,932
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Thanks as always Guy... This machine drives me crazy. It looked like oil was dripping steady from that corner on the pan.... Went back later and started it up and no leak?? I see a little bit around the dipstick tube, so I guess I'll just keep an eye on it.
Everything else seems pretty good except the temp gage isn't working. After testing it seems both the gage and sender are both bad, so I just located both thanks to the -24P parts manual (y)
Also performed the battery alternator test and I am unable to change the voltage using the adjustment screw. It stays at 24.94V which I assume is strictly battery voltage and there is a problem with the alternator.
Next time it's a nice day I'll have to dig deeper into that.

I have a theory on the IP that maybe you can confirm or disprove: After it sat a month or more ( with a bad IP shaft seal ) I assume all the fuel in the day tank drained into the oil. After this last rebuild and subsequent starting difficulty, do you think the problem may have just been that when the pump is installed dry, it is somewhat air bound and maybe it requires excessive cranking or other ways to relieve the trapped air and let fuel in? ( also, the glass check ball in the T-fitting is clean and works properly ) The reason I ask is because after the initial no-start I removed the top cover again as well as the end cap and the vane pump. Eventually I reinstalled everything, but I left the top cover bolts a bit loose because I was 100% sure I would be tearing the pump apart a 3rd time. After doing this and reattaching the fuel lines, that's when I began to hear a slight sputter and started getting fuel out of the IP, so I'm wondering if this allowed trapped air to escape and fuel to enter the vane pump, since I see no other way for the trapped air to escape with the pump sealed up and the check valve working correctly, since the pump is only gravity fed and the check ball needs some pressure to open?? Just a theory, but makes me wonder.... :unsure:
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
15,672
21,586
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Ray,

There were times that the 15 & 30 were very hard to bleed out the air from the fuel system. After the Day tank, its all gravity fed. E-Pumps only feed the day tank. So from the day tank to the IP, needs to be looked at closely sometimes. Yes the check valve needs some pressure to open, but the IP will also provide some vacuum also. But that only works right when the IP is full of fuel anyway. When ever we installed a IP when it was dry, it took a long time to prime. Sometimes it would "Stutter" for a while. That's why I always primed it from the jug farthest from the IP. Crack that line at the injector, and crank the heck out of the engine. One of the problems connected to the IP, when the shaft seal rolls over, is that the pump is no longer air tight. It can no longer prime itself.
 

Jimmie Morgan

Member
62
12
8
Location
Goodman, Missouri USA
Yeah if you have any questions feel free to ask. I will try to answer them with my limited experience.


Another update. Today I feel as though I have made a lot of headway toward getting this unit restored to what it is supposed to be. I hooked the unit up to the main panel today at the barn and put it under load. Seemed to hold around 58-62 hz no problem varying a bit with load. If I tweak the throttle it will hold 60hz no problem and varies up and down bout 1 hz depending on loads coming on and off line. I then decided it was time to see what she could really do. I dropped in the 200 amp breaker to the house and the other well. Loaded the unit right up. Amp meter as you can see in the video is running around 90 amps on both legs to the panel. I turned the Dryer on and the oven and had the 8 ton AC running along with 4 refrigerators and a freezer. Turned my air compressor on in the barn and had the AC unit in the barn running as well as some space heaters and the charger for the forklift.

I ran the genny for about an hour and half under this load and it held the hz within about 1 to two hz of 60 hz plus or minus depending on the load. Im not sure if this is normal for these units but seems to be good enough for all the stuff I am running and the electric motors did not seem to mind the minor variance in freq.

Engine running really clean no smoke water temp around 160. Checked all the wiring with the infrared thermometer and did not notice any hot spots.

After an hour and a half it ran out of the 4 gallons of fuel I put in it. Low fuel light came on and it shut down on its own. So that is working at least. Hopefully the injector pump will not need to be rebuilt but only time will tell who knows.

The only thing that is not working now and im not really sure how to go about fixing it is the percent power meter. You can see in the video the whole time it just reads 0 on the meter. The amp meter is working great but the percent power meter is not. Im going to post in the 004a conversion the same question and see if anybody knows how to fix it.

Thanks again for all the help guys.

lee
[media]
Cannot get your video to Download
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks