Mep 002a and mep 003a test runs

Hello all. when you are test running these generators do you all have them grounded and hooked up to anything to use the power that is being generated? seems like after a while there might be a big static charge released from the generator if it werent. thanks in advance

Always best to run a generator with a load. Wet stacking can occur if ran often unloaded. If you can't get a full load, use something to pull some power. I will often use a circular saw just to see if it is OK, also plug in a 1500 watt hair dryer or whatever.

Never heard of a static charge. You should ground the generator with a grounding rod if possible.

You should always have the generator properly grounded. There will be no such thing as a large static charge with your generator. It's like the power companies generators...it's capable of making 10 KW, but it's only going to produce what it needs to satisfy the load connected to it. And it's not necessary to load it up every time you run it, wetstacking is a very slow process, since it does not happen overnight, if you run the set once a month to keep things moving and lubed like I do, then load it to at least 80% once a year for about 1/2 hour to an hour to burn off the deposits you'll be fine.

In addition to what Speddmon said, it is better to test a unit with some load to make sure there are no hidden problems. Get several cheap 1500 watt electric heaters to function as a load for the set. The convenience outlet is enough for one, but if you get some wire you can make a junction box with a main breaker and breakers for each outlet (4 for a 10KW).

I could make a little diagram of what I'm talking about if anyone's interested. We made several tent power boxes out of .50 cal ammo cans with two outlets on each side and a 60 amp cannon plug on the end.

Oh yea, and grounding the unit (ESPECIALLY a unit of unknown condition) is extremely important. You don't have to worry about static buildup, your concern is a fault causing a short to the frame and possibly to you (the operator).

Later,
Joe

Later,
Joe

Thanks all!

These sets are truly amazing.

I ran a load test this weekend connected to my house for 30 minutes. I currently have 7 basic circuits installed in my interface (furnace, well pump (220), sump pump, fridge and a few rooms for lighting/outlets and the most I could get outta the set was about 27-28% and that's when the well pump kicked on with all other circuits running.

Apparently I need to add more circuits to make this set work a little.

t~

I ran a load test this weekend connected to my house for 30 minutes. I currently have 7 basic circuits installed in my interface (furnace, well pump (220), sump pump, fridge and a few rooms for lighting/outlets and the most I could get outta the set was about 27-28% and that's when the well pump kicked on with all other circuits running.

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Mep-002 or 003? Yes they are amazing. You won't find one as well built at the hardware store! Ever notice how the portable gensets at the big box stores are rated? For instance they list a unit as a 5k rating so you think thats the normal operating capacity, when actually its the peak surge rating. You are really buying something more like a 2.5-3k unit. And even then the peak rating is only to be operated for a brief moment.

Whoops...sorry. The set is a 002a with just under 10hrs on the clock.

originalboxcar said:

These sets are truly amazing.

I ran a load test this weekend connected to my house for 30 minutes. I currently have 7 basic circuits installed in my interface (furnace, well pump (220), sump pump, fridge and a few rooms for lighting/outlets and the most I could get outta the set was about 27-28% and that's when the well pump kicked on with all other circuits running.

Apparently I need to add more circuits to make this set work a little.

t~

Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more OBC, they are amazing!!!!!!

I gave one of mine it's monthly run this past weekend as well. While I was doing that I also hooked up my home-made load bank and gave it a good thorough workout as well. I like to load it at least once yearly to burn off any deposits left behind from just running it monthly to keep it lubed.

The load bank is 10 - 1 KW 240 volt strip heaters controlled by switches, one switch per heater. The set ran flawlessly. The only thing I noticed was that my % load meter is off a bit. According to the TM, with a 10 KW resistive load the set should show 80% load on the meter. I was only showing about 60-65% load. But for having a 41 amp draw out of an available 52 amps the set performed excellent. The frequency was extremely stable and only dropped less than 2 Hz (60 Hz down to 58-58.3 Hz) from no load to full load. And as far as the foltage stabilization goes, going from no load to full load and full load to no load all at once, the voltage stabilized within 1 to 1.5 seconds with very minor rise or fall in voltage. Also, I could barely detect any noticable change in engine tone from no load to full load.

On a side not, this was the first time I started the set in over a month. So all of the oil that would drain was drained back to the oil pan. Temps were in the mid 60's. I had full oil pressure in about 5 seconds or less. I think that spin on oil filter conversion has worked wonders for the oil pressure responce time and should provide for a lot less wear and tear on the engine.

The heater strips are a great idea Speddmon!

Maybe I should get an electric heater(s) for my pole barn to use to load test as well as initially heat everything up then switch over to wood... a two-fold benefit!

These aren't heaters like you're probably thinking of. These are more from an industrial application. We used them to keep large electrical cabinets warm and dry in the winter time. Here is a link to something very similar to what I used.

channel strip heaters.

Tom,
Can you recommend something besides heaters that I can annually test my set with? I currently hook it up to the house, which takes time (I have to move it out of the shed). I'd prefer to do it in situ. Thanks!

I'm putting together a load tester that is relatively inexpensive using common items.


3 – 240V 2 pole switches
3 – 240V 2500 watt water heater elements.
1 – 55 gal drum with top


Mount the 3 elements in the top of the drum. Fill drum with water. Wire to switches so you can very the amount of load. You could do the same if you have a spare electric water heater available.

Actually heaters would be the cheapest and easiest way to do it, unless you have a huge compressor and other shop equipment on hand that can generator about 50 amps of loading for the set. If you can get some large loads like a good sized air compressor motor, air conditioner and the such; they would work, but the problem with those kinds of things as loads is that they cycle off and on. So that makes it hard to get a good consistent load for about 30 minutes or so to let the generator come up to a good hot working temperature.

The kind of heaters I linked to are probably going to be a bit pricey, but they allow the flexibility of only putting the loads on 10% load at a time with the switches they way I made it. Or all 10 KW at once to do some more in depth tests. A very cheap alternative would be to get some cheap baseboard heaters that will give you 10 KW and use a cheap air conditioner disconnect switch to turn the heater/s off and on with. And still another route would be to go to a heating/cooling contractor and see if they have any used but working furnace heat coils they would sell you. I got 2 - 9.6 KW coils for about $20 each and was going to use them with an AC disconnect switch until the strip heaters presented themselves from work for free. And if you do use the furnace heat coils, it's a good idea to set them up in such a way that you can have a small fan blowing across them when you run them to keep them from overheating.

I never thought of it until now, but I have an electric furnace sitting upstairs in my shop that would be good for that.

When we test ran small generators we hooked them up to either a bank of portable 1500 watt heaters or the load bank. Three heaters will give you close to 50% load, hook a table saw and cut some lumber or something to make it cycle a little and work.

Always use a ground, it takes about two minutes to pound a ground rod in next to the driveway or shop or hook to whatever grounds your hot tub. When I added onto my shop I installed a three section ground rod and ran a wire and lug inside the door.

Just a thought but an old electric range you could vary the load by turning on the top burners one at a time and then the oven. turned on all the way easily over 5000 watts.

For a newbie like myself, please explain "wet stacking". Thanks!

Wet stacking is a condition in diesel engines in which not all the fuel is burned and passes on into the exhaust side of the turbocharger and on into the exhaust system. The word "stacking" comes from the term "stack" for exhaust pipe or chimney stack. The oily exhaust pipe is therefore a "wet stack".
In diesel generators, it is usually because the diesel engine is running at only a small percentage of its capacity.
It is detectable when there is a black ooze around exhaust pipe connections and around the turbocharger. Continuous black exhaust from the stack when under a constant load is also an indication that all the fuel is not being burned.
Courtesy of Wikipedia.

Thank you, I appreciate the info.