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M211 pricing

Gunfreak25

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Thanks for your input guys. Your all very encouraging! :D

Do you guys think I will be able to install the shifting tower and pull lever starter back in place over the B&M? I've been told it can be done by some other M135 owners who have put similar BB GM engines in their trucks. Will undoubtedly take some imagination......

My head is SWIMMING with ideas already. This is going to be really fun! I've contemplated keeping the manual brakes as is for now....maybe keep the truck under 45 mph until I can get the air booster installed? Or would I need Schwarzenegger type legs to stop the truck without the air booster? :lol:
Probably answered my own question there...I will definately need/want full braking power.
 
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Stan Leschert

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If you are creative, you can keep the tower and pull start lever. As for the Air pack, Yes you could drive it, BUT I would highly NOT recommend it! There is a reason why even these old air assist sytems have a low air warning buzzer... If you are in a wartime type crisis, the truck is designed so that you can start to move it. The only battle that that cool beastie will ever see again, is you trying to parallel park!
 

Gunfreak25

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And I don't think manual brakes on a 7 ton green machine are anywhere as easy to operate as manual brakes on an old packard... :lol:

Stan, don't you have a Youtube account? I think I saw the video of your M135, freakin' sweet machine. Like the "driver fuel" comment. Good beer :beer: I'm a Guinness guy myself though...
 
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hippiedude

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I think you could set up some kind of cable shifter through the tower ..... You may have to make a custome top though .... I will look at mine and see if I can invent something in my head to help .... :idea:aua:idea:aua:idea:aua........... Maybe a B&M type shifter utalizing you ball and button knob ......... Then making a new cover for the tower ..........I think a T hadle would look cool though ....... Tim
 

Gunfreak25

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Well the truck has been paid for. Now to make for shipping arrangements.....

Tim, that is a great idea. Seller said something to that affect as well. Already has a B&M cable floor shifter. All the shift tower is made up of is a simple sheet metal housing with lots of internals. Bet I could gut it and just fashion it over the B&M. Would look totally original!
 
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Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
No pics yet, the truck won't be here for another few weeks. Y'all will be the first to get them though.

Come on Stan, everyone has to have a money pit. Nothing like using 5 gallons of gas to get a gallon of milk from Walmart. Actually Walmart is just up the street here. Yuma's small. :lol:
 
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nattieleather

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I think you got a good truck with a good sound modification. I think the price was more than I would be willing to pay for but it sounds like you are happy and that's what matters. I would look into getting on board air installed. It can be done on a V8 engine. This will allow you to rehook up the air pack for the brakes. With the air pack and the dual wheel cylinders (there are two on each wheel) once everything is adjusted and working properly these truck will stop on a dime and give you eight cents change. I love the old M211s I think they performed better than the original M35s, road better, and stopped a lot better, but the auto trans was it's downfall with the army. Oh yeah.....give it a good cleaning when you get it that will help you see what you really have. Good luck with your truck and please keep us posted with lots of Pics!
 

Gunfreak25

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Well I got the title for the truck today. Turns out the truck was originally built as an M220 shop van. But as you can see it is disguised as an M211.

Do these have a dual circuit brake system? I may be confusing that with a dual wheel cylinder arrangement. A dual circuit system would be a nice safety mod....
 
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Stan Leschert

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I think that the dual circuit was put on the A-3, and some rebuilt A-2. the TM for the 211 family is here on this site. With a single circuit braking system, just remember that one of the most esential pre-trip, and halt parade items is CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID! If it is less than before, you have a bit of maintence to do. Wheel cylinders are the most common problem, and are not that pricey.

Now get out the camera, and send us some pics of your project, as is progresses.
 

pa.rich

New member
I own a M211. Its all stock. The roof is the exception. You have some work that will be a fabricator's challenge. The air compressor should go back on . The mount for it and a pulley on the engine will need to be fabbed. There are used hardtops around but most will be prohibitive to ship. Pull all your wheels and replace the wheel cylinders, they are usually corroded and need to be replaced if they havent been done. About the shift tower, thats made to fit the original hydramatic and wont be of much use as it is except to modify the top for the single range tranny.One thing you will have which the original tranny didnt is "Park" ! The 211's relied on parking brake and wheel chocks. And if the parking brake didnt hold , it was a problem on a hill. One thing I would change is to cut out that floor panel and get it back where it belongs and weld up a new hump over the affected area. Good luck on the truck and you have lots of enthusiasam. Keep sending us progress reports. There are alot of the 211 and 135 style trucks around yet and some being parted out . Check the classifieds here on this site. They are pretty simple, but heavy parts. If you could get the manual, it is a excellent help with good pictures. Have fun.
 

Gunfreak25

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Rich, the floor panel you see out of place isn't bolted in place. But I will be moving it back, that's for sure. I have a few things to re-arrange and install in the cab. Some doofus installed an old gas pedal/linkage from an old Cady and as such moved the floorplate backwards to make room for it on the firewall...

All of the wheel cylinders have been rebuilt. Even comes with some spares!

I do have an original factory manual for it. It's been quite handy, covering every aspect I can imagine.

Hope I don't wake the neighbors when I start it up upon arrival!
 
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Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
Truck is scheduled for delivery on Saturday. Been setback after setback. It's time for her to come home, I am giddy as a schoolgirl!! :jumpin:

I found an ORIGINAL soft top for $240 shipped. That includes a reproduction cab rear and tie down ropes. Going to get it next week.
 

nattieleather

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nopicsYou know someone had to say it.... :) Congrats on the truck and enjoy. I wish I still had my M211 but I'm a speed guy and 45mph was not my idea of fun on the interstate..... But compaired to the M35 the M211 rode so much nicer.
 

Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
After 4 months of waiting my old crusty lady is home. I had John and Jay from "J&J Recycling" in Tucson bring it down for me. I won't bother posting every little detail, just the basics. It does run and drive but has manual brakes right now and on the front axle only. I need to tear into the compressor to see if it has seized up from sitting outside for 10 years or not. If it works then I'll be fabricating it onto the 455.
If not, guess i'll go find a Bendix 2 ton vacuum booster off an old Chevy dumper.
Running open headers right now. Not comfortable with that for fear or warping valves or bleeding ear drums, will need to get that fixed soon. Truck runs, drives and shifts just fine but it seems to have developed a really bad timing problem. Noticeable as heck upon startup, and the deep cycle battery in it makes for a poor starting battery. No alternator or generator hooked up at all, so when the battery is drained it must be recharged. Probably the reason for the deep cycle being in there.
Was a real pain getting the thing to idle without dying. Forget putting it in gear, just wanted to die. Had to keep one foot on the brake and one on the gas to constantly keep it up when changing from forward to reverse. B&M shifter works great and I may just throw a rubber boot on there and keep it. Might just add the shift tower for looks and hook up a solenoid to the pull lever starter. Already has keyed ignition so I can use that as a master. Only thing electrical hooked up is ignition so I have lots of wire play ahead of me.

It's a very solid truck, hardly any rust worth mentioning. I figure about $500 should get it on the road and another $1500 before I can call it fully reliable and basically finished. It won't look brand new but won't look like it's been neglected for 40 years either. The oxidized and sun bleached paint cleans up great with some superfine steel wool which reveals deep glossy 24087 olive drab underneath. Since taking the pictures yesterday morning, I have the glove box fixed, seats torn out and almost ready for new upholstery. Will need a new springer seat for the driver side though, too far gone to save. It will stay covered up with a tarp until it's all finished and I get a soft top for it.

I haven't driven it yet. Maybe 5MPH down the alley for 30 feet. But I can already tell it's GOING TO BE A BLAST to drive in town. This is going to be my daily driver if things work out. I live in a small town and every day necessities are only a couple miles a way. Will be a great grocery getter! :beer:

Please excuse the camera date. These pics are only a day old.....
 

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Gunfreak25

Well-known member
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Location
Yuma, AZ
More pics. Behind the passenger seat I found the original back cushion still neatly tucked away inside the cushion cover, knotted neatly by some unknown Arizona soldier years ago. I did find warning stickers on the truck dating back to late 1964 so that tells me it was in service atleast until the early 70's. Behind the drivers seat I found a long thick chain welded to the cab body with a large US marked lock on the end of it. Wasn't sure was it was for at first, but then I found it was just the right length to loop through the steering wheel. It's a field version of an anti theft device! No key though, so I guess it's for looks now.

The paint on this truck is absolutely amazing considering how much time it has spent outside in the Arizona sun and elements. Very few areas without paint and the majority of the areas are still dark olive drab. Atleast 3 coats on the entire truck, as there are some chips that reveal more olive drab paint beneath. Transfer case has a Fort Leonard Wood rebuilt tag dated 1964. Kinda odd I guess? Found a set of keys inside the drivers seat, no they don't fit the lock mentioned above. Found lots of spare wheel cylinders inside the cab as well as replacement cups (all new) and a round of .357 Mag. No broken glass. Doors and windows work but need clean/lube. Under carriage still has the tar coating that's in like new shape to prevent rust, chipped a small area off and it revealed factory fresh olive drab. I love desert trucks! Unfortunately the radium paint inside the gauges no longer glows at night. Darn, I was hoping for some radioactivity to set off any local radiation alarms. :twisted:
 

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nattieleather

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Cleveland, OH
Truck looks good. You have some work ahead of you but nothing that can't be fixed. Does the truck have the original transmission or has it been changed? I see someone changed the original shift tower, but it's good that you still have it. I would put it back in if I was going to make it original. I'm not sure if you stated that it's an original motor or if it has been changed to something else?
 
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