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Thread: how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

  1. #11
    4 Star General Katahdin's Avatar
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    I had fun researching this one (new to me). Looks like you have a "code G" pump without the FDC. Basically you'd need to remove the cover and do your adjustments there, see the following for more info:

    TM 9-2910-226-34
    page 3-105

    http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/2...ensator-2.html


    Quote Originally Posted by nhdiesel View Post
    Well I have an oddball. Older A2, non C turbo (still a turbo). It has fairly recent filters, but I'm going to change them again before doing any real adjustment; and will install a pyrometer as well. This truck is GUTLESS. I mean I can barely hit 2400 rpms on the flats, even in lower gears, no load. I know the 11.00 rubber is a slight extra drag, but they are also highway radials and only singles, so that should help a little. The truck runs smooth, starts every time no matter the temp (even when it was -10 this winter). But it seems to idle pretty low.

    Here are a few pics of my pump:

    Attachment 185507
    Attachment 185508
    Attachment 185509

    As you can see my pump is nothing like the one pictured. Where is the adjustment screw on this one?

    Jim

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    Another Ahab (09-27-2013), drmerc (12-09-2013), HanksDeuce (12-28-2012), LostTrails (09-21-2013), nhdiesel (06-05-2010)

  3. #12
    2 Star General nhdiesel's Avatar
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    Thanks and repped! If there is enough time between the rain tomorrow I'll check it out. I just replaced my cracked injector line, so now I can move forward to other maintenance items.

    Jim
    1962 M35A2, LDS 427, 11.00-20 Goodyear radials, For Sale
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  4. #13
    4 Star General jimk's Avatar
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    Screw and the 2 nuts are under this cover. I did one not long ago. Moved it a turn and nothing much happened. Advised that a pyrometer was important but was overuled by the owner. Turned it a second turn and not much happened. Turned it all the way and got lots of power and smoke. Pushed again for a pyro but don't think he listened. Engine had a C turbo. A boost gage would be better than nothing. If you get 12-13psi at 2600 you'll have LDS output and almost idiot proof EGT. The LD may not respond to additional fuel.
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    Thanks for the red arrow! I was lost reading about the triangular cover, facing right , to the rear, facing the radiator etc. The previous picture shows the two nuts , but not the rectangular cover on top at the rear. Does anyone have a picture of where ahead of the turbo you drill and tap in the pyrometer lead? I did this on my Cummins 12 valve but not on a Deuce. If you drill right after you start the engine, ( be Careful ) the exhaust pressure blows the chips up and out so the turbo doesn't eat them. Same while tapping the hole. You feel way better knowing how hot thing are when pulling a load. John

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    Moderator cranetruck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oilleaker1 View Post
    Thanks for the red arrow! I was lost reading about the triangular cover, facing right , to the rear, facing the radiator etc. The previous picture shows the two nuts , but not the rectangular cover on top at the rear. Does anyone have a picture of where ahead of the turbo you drill and tap in the pyrometer lead? ......John
    Two choices, forward three of rear three cylinders, both sets monitored here.

    Remember to taper the bore for the pipe threads.
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    Great shot of the pyros. One will be sufficient for me. Two more gauges would be cool though. I'd do one pyro and one boost. I appreciate this thread Thank You! John

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    Colonel REO 54's Avatar
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    I just learned about this techique from an old warhorse mech near FT Lewis,Wa yesterday.He stated the same things as Westech;dont' allow that droopscrew to rotate and or drop!Also,he and made task specific wrench for that job by grinding down a wrench to fit.Thanks for this post guys.Good info.
    1954 REO M35A2 front winch/rear PTO.
    1981 Amgen M35A2 W/W.wildland fire deuce
    Slow is smooth...smooth is fast

  10. #18
    3 Star General kendelrio's Avatar
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    Just another reason for the "How to" section......

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    Will you know if the rod falls off inside if the screw is turned? How can one tell?
    67 Kieser Jeep M35A2 Bobbed w/w
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    Quote Originally Posted by cranetruck View Post
    Remember to taper the bore for the pipe threads.
    Explain for non mechanic please
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    M35A2 WO/W + Winch ,
    M35A2 WO/W
    XM105E3,M105A2,M105A2
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    M750 ("The Poop Deck")
    M796 Bolster Trailer,
    M796A1 Bolster Trailer
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    ɹəʌəɟ po əʌɐɥ ı

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