Kinda got carried away..... M1028 rebuild

Update - Got the new GEP vented fuel pump mounted and fabricated/installed a new fuel line; installed the coolant bypass hose and fittings; had my original 1984 Delco starter completely rebuilt and installed, along with the correct starter bracket - hot-wired 24-volt from my truck to test the bendix and check gear clearance. It was perfect; Received/installed the new ARB flexplate bolts (thanks again Ken). Next, I will mount the torque converter in the Bowtie 700R4 and install the transmission to the engine. Here are a few photos -

Can you speed this project up?

Your gonna make me pee my pants with anticipation.

Sharecropper said:

Update - Got the new GEP vented fuel pump mounted and fabricated/installed a new fuel line; installed the coolant bypass hose and fittings; had my original 1984 Delco starter completely rebuilt and installed, along with the correct starter bracket - hot-wired 24-volt from my truck to test the bendix and check gear clearance. It was perfect; Received/installed the new ARB flexplate bolts (thanks again Ken). Next, I will mount the torque converter in the Bowtie 700R4 and install the transmission to the engine. Here are a few photos -

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Bowtie 700R??

LT67 said:

Bowtie 700R??

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Yes a Level 2 K-case 700R4 from Bowtie Overdrives in Hesperia, CA http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/

The owner is Chris Gardner who owns and drives a M1008 as his daily driver and knows how to build/set-up a 700R4 for diesel application. I purchased a Level 2 from him which is rated for 450 HP and 450 FPT. I’m planning on attaching the 700R4 to my P400 over the weekend and will post photos next week.

November 14, 2018 Update -

Got my 700R4 transmission installed. Installed a new Derale pan with cooling tubes. Installed a HMMWV temperature sending unit in the big bung but have ordered new AutoMeter gauges and will install the AutoMeter-specific sending unit in the small bung when it arrives. Hooked up the 700R4 TV cable to the bracket and injection pump and properly adjusted the cable length. I inserted an aftermarket transmission dipstick but I'm not crazy about it. Thinking about looking for a GM tube and dipstick which would be correct. Having fun.

Looking good! I get my 4l80 from the shop tomorrow, pretty excited.

gimpyrobb said:

Looking good! I get my 4l80 from the shop tomorrow, pretty excited.

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From the shop? It's NOS. You change something?

I had some goodies put in it for longevity! Again, it was packaged well, thanks so much.

Had to slightly modify the cast aluminum dust cover but it went on without a hitch. The cover I got off Ebay must have been from a SBC because the opening for the starter hub was too small. My 700R4 also did not have a threaded boss for the bolt over the starter, so I just cut off the top end to clear the starter hub, no biggie. Also, because of the P400 girdle and special cast aluminum oil pan, I had to cut off the flared radius which would normally go around the rear main seal. After cutting off the flare, the dust cover fit right up against the oil pan like it was made for it.

gimpyrobb said:

I had some goodies put in it for longevity! Again, it was packaged well, thanks so much.

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What did you have installed in the 4l80?

Jozseph said:

What did you have installed in the 4l80?

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Ahem........., respectfully guys, maybe you should start a new thread?

New thread? This one hasen't reached 50 pages yet. Did you ever get your headers in? Any pics of them?

ken said:

New thread? This one hasen't reached 50 pages yet. Did you ever get your headers in? Any pics of them?

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Ironic that you asked Ken. I actually just test-fit the headers to make sure the starter cleared. Here are a few photos -

Sharecropper said:

Ironic that you asked Ken. I actually just test-fit the headers to make sure the starter cleared. Here are a few photos -

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Still holding my bladder,,, when we going to see the install?

The pics look good mike. So far what is your opinion of them? How is the quality? Do they look heavy duty? Do you think they will last?

ken said:

The pics look good mike. So far what is your opinion of them? How is the quality? Do they look heavy duty? Do you think they will last?

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Ken; I have owned/installed numerous sets of headers on my cars over the past 50 years but these Stan's Headers are the first on one of my trucks. These things are built tough like the military would build them. The manifold plate is a full 1/4" thick and the tubes are thick and heavy. All welds are nice and the machining is top-notch. The ceramic coating is inside-and-out and the set came with the 3" muffler-side flanges for easy exhaust attachment. I could not be happier. The quality is unsurpassed. The only thing I had to do was to source the special small-wrench metric bolts, as Stan's came with US threaded bolts. I found these at Bel-Metric Inc. www.belmetric.com , #BF110x25YLW. They were $1.24 each and worked perfect. The headers will probably be the last things I install on the engine prior to lifting it into the truck. I have already measured everything compared to my M1028 engine bay and it appears there will be no issues regarding clearance. Regarding if they will last, I am certain they will last as long as I do, and probably a little while longer.

Man I would love to hear it running with headers and I different exhaust. What size pipes are at the collectors?

ken said:

Man I would love to hear it running with headers and I different exhaust. What size pipes are at the collectors?

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When I get this thing running I will make a video and post it for everyone's enjoyment or dismay.

The collectors are 3". I plan on running 3" straight-through Flowmasters or Magnaflow with a gentle sweep to exit right in front of the rear tires.

I ran 2 1/2 inch pipes through the quietest mufflers I could find on my 1028A1. Then turned it down just before the rear axle. There was a big difference in seat of the pants power. I hope you see a bigger gain than I did.

ken said:

I ran 2 1/2 inch pipes through the quietest mufflers I could find on my 1028A1. Then turned it down just before the rear axle. There was a big difference in seat of the pants power. I hope you see a bigger gain than I did.

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The reason I plan to turn the 3" pipes out in front of the rear tires is to create a slight negative pressure in the system to help pull the exhaust gasses out. I will extend the pipes out to be even with the rear tire face on each side and cut the pipe-ends in-line with the airflow. Might not be much, but every little bit helps.