6.2 to 727 adapter??

Its in a older Dodge 3/4 ton I would guess maybe a 1974 75? and looks like a bubba got you change over to keep plowing snow! lol..

Angel says "WOW"!
I'd guess a 413 also.

Yeesh!

Sell a couple of those 6.2's buy a cam/heads/intake&carb for that 318.

Or you can sell the 318 in the truck and put a better engine in it, like a 6.2l. Maybe it hadn't been mentioned, but that engine has some serious run ability problems anyways.

I like that old engine, it would be unique and an interesting project, it would probably be the only one out there.

Yeah, I'd say the wrecker is probably a 413. Still a good engine, but that thing would need a total rebuild before I would trust it. The second truck looks like a 383 or 400. It's a low deck B series block so that rules out it being a 440 or any other RB engine. '72-'74 will be part time 4WD with a divorced transfer case if it's 4WD, '75-'79 will be full time 4WD with a NP203, which would mean it would be a bolt in swap on a M880 series truck. I'm assuming that's a 4WD since it seems to have the plow pump on it.

If it was me I would do a compression check on that 383 or 400 in that 74ish truck you posted. If it checks out, grab the all of it, and slam it in there in one shot. That thing has just about everything you would need, mounts and all.

That wrecker is an interesting thing, motor looks to be about a 62 or 63 vintage 361 industrial motor, seeing as how its a two barrel low deck. A 413 would be an RB motor with a 4 barrel. Anyway, it does have the industrial manifolds that would fit the 361 motor that you are in love with (I am too). I am not sure they would fit the chassis though. You are in a better position to check than myself. The trans in that truck is likely a huge rock grinder thing that wouldn't fit under the floor in your truck and could weigh as much as the motor. While its cool, there aren't many parts on that truck that will help much.

Regarding big block mopar engine ID: There are two types, low deck or B motors and tall deck or RB motors. The 350-361-383-400 motors are all B motors and the 383RB-413-426-440 are all RB motors. I've added the 383RB in there, but it is a one or two year deal around 1959-1960.

There is no need to get casting numbers on mopar big blocks to get an ID, it is stamped onto a pad near the distributor. On RB motors the pad is on the top of the motor just behind the water pump, on the driver side. Its about 1"x2", level with the horizontal. On B motors the pad is just under the distributor, on the same plane as the passenger side head. The pad will have random things stamped in it, dates or other things, and the displacement. If the guy on the line was lazy he might have stamped in only the first two numbers, like 38 rather than 383 or 41 for 413.

Look toward AMC, they put anything together. You might have to take the guts out of one case and insert it into another. May as well rebuild if youre gonna do that though all that though. Personally, I took the 318 out of my 89 Ramcharger, PIG that it was, and replaced with a 4bta. Runs every bit as good as the LA ever did, and gets 30mpg!.

I have a 4 BT that I am saving for a M56B1 project but it might just end up in this truck.. They are just so hard for me to get and not that cheap anymore.. Thats why I started down the 6.2 road because I have some nice ones but the direction is still undetermined.
Some excelent info brought to the surface for us mopar ignorant guys.. I thank you all for your time and sharing and keep it coming. I enjoy learning about new things and will document this once I get a clear direction, free up my shop and pull that 318 soon to be Lake Michigan artificial reef out.. The 318 reminds me of the GM 305 fopa! Or better yet the 4.3 V6 in a full size 4x4! What were the engineers thinking?

Oh, you guys...I love my 318, starts, runs, goes down the road, 12 mpg, gutless wonder, sounds like a sewing machine, never see one at the drag strip or car shows, so if ya need one they are everywhere.....but I know where Cit is coming from.....that pig of a service truck he has wieghs about 3,000 lbs more than my 880.......

The carb on that wrecker is TINY!!!!!!!!!! Seems that poor engine would be starvin....sigh..lets get the torch out...rip it out of there.....so many engines...so little time.

A 318 is a very durable and reliable engine. They are generally under-built so they don't have a huge output from the factory but they will run forever and usually with problems that would make lesser engines not run. Up the compression, valve sizes and add headers or some better flowing manifolds and they will put out impressive power that easily tops a similarly built Ford 302 or GM 305. If you really want an easy swap for more power, pick up a good used Magnum 360 engine and add a 4 barrel carb and manifold, good for about 300 HP with free flowing exhaust. About all it requires is one mount bracket a weight kit or flexplate to balance the converter to the 360 specs and a little time.

Elwenil said:

A 318 is a very durable and reliable engine. They are generally under-built so they don't have a huge output from the factory but they will run forever and usually with problems that would make lesser engines not run. Up the compression, valve sizes and add headers or some better flowing manifolds and they will put out impressive power that easily tops a similarly built Ford 302 or GM 305. If you really want an easy swap for more power, pick up a good used Magnum 360 engine and add a 4 barrel carb and manifold, good for about 300 HP with free flowing exhaust. About all it requires is one mount bracket a weight kit or flexplate to balance the converter to the 360 specs and a little time.

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The 360 was on the table but the plate was empty.. I can't seem to find one of them in good working order in these parts?? I really would like to delete the spark plugs but it's so much hassle in this particular application. All the upgrades you mention would cost me more than 3 - 6.2's.. I am still going to try and save them motors for something. If not they are headed to the scrap yard and like maxim always says! They just don't make them anymore.. It would be fun to clean that wrecker motor and light it up just for fun. I bet with some ignition work and a carb clean she fires off. Like the old guy said "ran when parked" LOL..

Don't scrap 'em, they will be good for spare parts, one day, soon enough!

I know that this isn't your original idea, but.... if you could wait to find a bargain TH400, then all you need is the factory chevy 4x4 adapter/rear support to accept the NP203, after swapping input shafts, or the whole TC.
Besides the "mandatory" hydroboosted brake & PS conversion..., also consider installing a larger radiator and adding a pair of extra leaves to the front spring packs. The drive shafts remained stock length but that leaves only minimum clearance between firewall and the 6.2's right bank, even after a 1.5" body lift to fit 285/75R16s.

(detail pics of my 6.2 converted "GM886" are available... a M880 is next in line, waiting for the same UPGRADES!)

G.

gringeltaube said:

Don't scrap 'em, they will be good for spare parts, one day, soon enough!

I know that this isn't your original idea, but.... if you could wait to find a bargain TH400, then all you need is the factory chevy 4x4 adapter/rear support to accept the NP203, after swapping input shafts, or the whole TC.
Besides the "mandatory" hydroboosted brake & PS conversion..., also consider installing a larger radiator and adding a pair of extra leaves to the front spring packs. The drive shafts remained stock length but that leaves only minimum clearance between firewall and the 6.2's right bank, even after a 1.5" body lift to fit 285/75R16s.

(detail pics of my 6.2 converted "GM886" are available... a M880 is next in line, waiting for the same UPGRADES!)

G.

Click to expand...

Post the pics on this thread would ya? I must have missed this build..
Did you document it through Steel Soldiers?
Sounds interesting and I like your idea and input.

citizensoldier said:

Post the pics on this thread would ya?.....

Click to expand...

Will (carefully) do so....

... I must have missed this build..
Did you document it through Steel Soldiers? .....

Click to expand...

Long time ago I did mention that swap, here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/m880/6861-some-more-questions-rookie.html It still IS the best work truck in the fleet!
No documentation done yet.... (I'm afraid of all the Dodge purists here on board! It seems like replacing a 318 with a GM diesel is kind of an insult...! )

G.

They can rant and rave who cares.. Its about what works.. they all make junk and they all make some good stuff. "Function before fashion" for me all the way.. If they start bad mouthing it I will sick the mods on em! sick em dog! sick em!

It is an insult, lol.


I just can't see replacing one powerless engine with another. I fully understand that you have a few 6.2s laying around and want to use them but honestly I wouldn't consider the swap worth it for all the trouble to swap it in and get less power than the 318 is capable of with a few mods. It would probably get better fuel mileage than a mild 318, but with the price of diesel and all the cold weather starting/glow plug issues I would really have to think hard about if the swap was worth it. Anytime you start swapping across brands it becomes a headache as none of it will bolt in and generally you are stuck with the vehicle since few people want to buy a "bastard" vehicle. Not criticizing or anything, just posting my opinions and what I've seen with similar vehicles. Seems like only street rods get any respect with crossbreeding, lol.

Elwenil said:

It is an insult, lol.


I just can't see replacing one powerless engine with another. I fully understand that you have a few 6.2s laying around and want to use them but honestly I wouldn't consider the swap worth it for all the trouble to swap it in and get less power than the 318 is capable of with a few mods. It would probably get better fuel mileage than a mild 318, but with the price of diesel and all the cold weather starting/glow plug issues I would really have to think hard about if the swap was worth it. Anytime you start swapping across brands it becomes a headache as none of it will bolt in and generally you are stuck with the vehicle since few people want to buy a "bastard" vehicle. Not criticizing or anything, just posting my opinions and what I've seen with similar vehicles. Seems like only street rods get any respect with crossbreeding, lol.

Click to expand...

The 6.2 has a pretty good torc curve and this would be a pretty simple swap if the adapter plate was still readily available and affordable. But its not, so next in line would be A complete driveline swap..This would work but then just use a chevy truck and have a better front axle,power steering and part time 4X4.. I use manual glow plug buttons on my trucks and have no cold start issues. If its real cold I just plug it in. You could also tweek the pump and ad a turbo later on if more horsepower was needed. A 6BT would be the best swap but are very exspensive and the truck can not handle the weight or torc. 4BT would be nice... Hmmmm..
A 6.2 moves a loaded M1028 or M1031 right along. Now granted you have 4:56 gears compared to 4:10 but I think it would be a good use of a cheap 6.2.
I get 20MPG with the M1009 and about 10 to 12 with the M1028 depending on how you drive it. I get maybe 8 with the 318 and dont see how modifying it for horspower will increase the mileage ? You would have to create high RPM's to gain the horsepower needed therefore decreasing the mileage.

A '70s 3/4 should easily handle the weight and torque of a 6BT as far as the frame is concerned. The front axle should be swapped out for a D60 with the appropriate springs, but I do know a bunch of people with 6BTs in 1/2 trucks and Ramchargers, some even running on the 1/2 ton axles though they don't see any towing duty.

As far as mileage, a swap to the correct size 4 BBL carb, decent cam and a little bump to the compression will most likely increase the mileage over what it is now. Most people notice an increase in mileage just by swapping a 4BBL on a 2BBL equipped 318 if they can keep their foot out of it. Also, high RPMs does not necessarily mean bad MPG. You want the engine to be in it's powerband and will normally get better mileage at an RPM where the engine isn't working as hard and you have very little throttle vs a higher gear, lower RPMs and putting the pedal down more.

Let me help you with some of the Mopar stories that are flying around. The 383 is a B block engine and not an RB. There were two unusal years in which the 383 was actually a "Raised Block" engine. If you can find one it is either a 1959 or 1960 year and rarer than hens teeth and not worth troubling with unless you're going fo a 100% correct restoration. The small blocks bellhousing will not bolt up to a big block, either B or RB engine. And neither wil a big block, again either B or RB bolt up to anything small block. The 360 is an externally balanced engine meaning if you swap a 360 for a 318 you will have to a balanced flywheel or torque converter, otherwise the 360 will self destruct. The 727's were for years the go to trasnmission on dragstrips because it was a bullet proof 3 speed automatic. This has been years ago and it's possible they don't even make adapters to bolt a small block chevy to a 727 anymore. The bellhousing you had a picture on of the 361 is a forward sump style. Better than even chances you'll have to go with a rear sump pan and pick up tube. The pans will work on any big block wether it is B or RB. The RB was designed to get additonal stroke from the basic B block to give the higher displacements. The intakes between B's and RB's will NOT interchange, the raised block has a slightly wider intake to accomodate the farther distance gained when the blocks were lengthened. The list of what will interchange between B's and RB's and wedges, hemis, and new or early style big blocks is too lengthy to post here. As far as plastic timing gears there are a whole slew of after market gears, Cloyes comes to mind, that offer all steel timing set ups for the same price as the quieter plastic coated gears used in stock applications. As far as using a 6.2 you'll need to find an adapter to bolt between the block and the front of the transmission. you'll also need a different torque converter to handle the lower rpm range of the engine. If the 6.2 requires external balancing you have an additional headache to contend with. If I might suggest a solution, trade or sell the 880 series and buy a CUCV cheap without an engine. I've seen hundreds of the chevy's on DRMO yards without engiines since they can't keep them running for very long. Then, based on all the posts concerning problems with CUCV I see posted here you'll have a whole new set of problems. The other thing might be to trade a good running 6.2 for a good running 318. If you're looking for something to fart around in, is fuel mileage all that important? Best of luck.

I have several CUCV's and they all run very well.. I think I will just put the utility box on one of the M1028's and then put a M101box on this truck and call it good. The truck only has 11k for miles on it though. The motor has a new carb,new distributor,new plugs and wires,oil change,new filters,new starter,and still runs like crap.. Thanks for the info M376x6 some good "TO KNOW" stuff in there.
They should have never put this box with the welder/genset on these trucks. They are grossly overloaded with it...I prefer the 3600lb carrying capacity of the M1028,Dana 60 front,also the locker rear and posi front really crabs and goes. To much work and money needed for the old Dodge to make it go anywhere..