cucv lift kits

wilsonmotors · Oct 7, 2010

i want to get a lift for the m1009. i would like a 6in with 35's any ideas about what needs to b changed steering dive shafts i was hopeing that i could do a 6in and not have to make the drive shafts longer any ideas?

3dubs · Oct 8, 2010

With a 4" lift you can run 36" tires. $' you can do without all the other expensive stuff. You can buy everything at one time or do it as you have the money at Offroad Design - Fullsize Chevy GM 4x4 Suspensions, Parts and Performance great people too. They sent me this to help me with a 4" lift.

4” lift

4” EZ-Ride Front Springs Tuff Country TCI-18470 $275
For 4” HD front springs substitute TCI-18371 add $40
ORD brand custom springs typically about $575

Front U-Bolts:
1/2t and 3/4t front ubolt kit TCI-17701 $30
For D60 front axle substitute GU37051add $15

Heavy Duty Greasable Front Shackles GU37011 $99

Greasable Spring Main Eye kit GU37012 $27

Drop Pitman Arm SKY-CA50 $105
Or for D44, or 10 bolt
4” Raised Steering Arm TCI-70100 $75

Brakelines – choose either:
79-98 and D60, 10mm Brake line kit through 6” Lift GU30011 $112
73-78, 7/16 Brake line kit through 6” lift GU30071 $112

Sway Bar Disconnect Kit GU37001 $99

Swaybar bushings – choose either:
Sway Bar Bushings 81-87 BG05003 $19
Sway Bar Bushings 73-80 BG05024 $29

Bolt-in steering box brace – choose either:
73-80 GU39001-E $130
81-87 GU39001-L $130

Rear Shackle Flip kit:
For Blazer and Suburban use:
½, and ¾ ton 4” Shackle Flip 73-87 GM GU38010 $189
For trucks use:
1/2t and 3/4t 2.5” Shackle Flip 73-87 GU38012 $189
1 ton 2 ½” Shackle Flip 73-87 GM GU38013 $190

Greasable rear spring and shackle bushings – choose the kit to fit your stock spring eyes:
Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit 1 ½” spring eyes and 1 ½” Shackles GU38002 $90
Greasable Rear Spring Bushing kit 1 ½” spring eyes and 1 3/8” Shackles GU38003 $90
Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit 1 ¾” and 1 ½” spring eyes and 1 ½” Shackles GU38002-A $90 (generally for trucks and subs with 56” springs)
Greasable Rear Spring Bushing Kit 1 ¾” and 1 ½” spring eyes and 1 3/8” Shackles GU38003-A $90 (generally for trucks and subs with 56” springs)

GU380154.5” Heavy Duty Rear Super Shackle GU38003-A $105
No bushings with this kit, bushings are included in the greasable rear kits above. ORD HD rear shackles use 1.5” bushings.

Rear U-bolts:
½ ton Rear U-Bolt Kit TCI-17751 $36
¾ ton Rear U-Bolt Kit TCI-17752 $40

TCI-SX8000 Tuff Country Shocks set of 4 $154
Front TCI-61231
Rear TCI-61301

Bilstein shock upgrade:
Bilstein 5125 Shocks set of 4 $356
4 pcs BE5-A465-H7
Front extended shock mount kit $46

Mudstone · Oct 8, 2010

Second. Call ORD and be done with it.

Cucvnut · Oct 9, 2010

third dont steal stuff from ORD's web site

tymbom · Oct 9, 2010

I'll 3rd the motion. Get some crossover steering while your at it and you won't regret it.

DokWatson · Oct 9, 2010

If you don't feel like spending a ton of money, rear shackle flip and front 52" spring swap+zero rates.

http://diy4x.com/

wilsonmotors · Oct 9, 2010

ya i had planned on going there does any one know if i can get 6in's of lift on the m1009 and not have to leghtin my drive shafts or am i go to have to get longer drive shafts with a 6'ins of lift

rnd-motorsports · Oct 9, 2010

With 6'' and if you plan to play yes plan on changing shaft! and to help you can lower the cross member there should be 1'' spacers on top of the frame on each crossmember bolt put them between crossmember and frame will help. [thumbzup]

Cucvnut · Oct 9, 2010

I would just get longer drive shafts. But you might not need them. Lowering a t case is a cheap fix to avoid a problem but its not the correct way to do it.

rnd-motorsports · Oct 9, 2010

Cucvfreek what is dropping the transfer case not the correct way to do it? nobody said dropping the case would fix anything You lift your truck and you are the expert. Alot of lifts recomend the transfer drop To help with the constant volocity bind when lifting these trucks. No post stated that dropping it would fix anything! I build and Repair 4x4 for a living not as a hobby like yourself.

Dropping the transfer is the correct way to help with bind of front shaft!

Mudstone · Oct 9, 2010

I dropped my t case a little. the shims are there waiting for you. Its the right course of action. if you go more than 4" new d shaft. If you're gonna do the shaft might as well do a d60 and 14bff... if your gonna do the axles you might as well do the crossover steer. if your gonna do all that you might as well clock the transfer and flat belly the thing. if your gonna do that you might as well build a cage... oh man.

DokWatson · Oct 9, 2010

Nothing wrong with dropping the t-case, its just a couple spacers to correct angle. As long as the engine isn't banging against the firewall or something it won't hurt anything. In fact, I plan on dropping mine a little here soon... and I have extended drive shafts.

86m1028 · Oct 9, 2010

Dropping the t-case is NOT the RIGHT way to do it.

When you lower the t-case yes you make the rear angle better BUT you make the frt angle WORSE.

Why half ass it when you could spend alittle more money to do it RIGHT the first time.

Mudstone · Oct 9, 2010

from what i was told today you want to equalize the angle of the front and the rear... wouldn't a combination of shims and t case drop accomplish that task?

rnd-motorsports · Oct 9, 2010

Okay for those who say dropping the transfer case is not the proper way to do it , It is not done to affect the drive shaft length but to help with angles both rear and FRONT an angle gauge will prove it SORRY 86m1028 also many lifts recomend and even sell kits! Skyjacker Transfer case drop kits - Jack-it, Inc. - The Suspension Experts
Chevy Transfer Case Lowering Kit - Low Price Guarantee
Fabtech Transfer Case Lowering Kit
and many more we all must be doing something rite :beer:

Mudstone · Oct 9, 2010

you don't need a kit... the spacers are there already from the factory.

rnd-motorsports · Oct 9, 2010

I know the spacers are there I said that a few posts back.thanks! just posted the kits being available becouse a few say that it is wrong to drop transfer to correct drive shaft angles mainly the front cv

wilsonmotors · Oct 9, 2010

ok guys i did a 4in on my 89 k5 and used the factory shims to lower the t-case for the angles and it worked perfect i am going to put a d60 an 14bolt ff and a hmmwv 6.5 with a 6.2 banks sidewinder kit that i have never done more then a 4in lift so the 6 is new to me didnt know if the shafts will need to be lengthened or not and it will be a play toy for mudd and rock crawling around here so to sum it up i can use my shafts with a 6 but if im gunna play i need new shafts right?

DokWatson · Oct 10, 2010

wilsonmotors said:
ok guys i did a 4in on my 89 k5 and used the factory shims to lower the t-case for the angles and it worked perfect i am going to put a d60 an 14bolt ff and a hmmwv 6.5 with a 6.2 banks sidewinder kit that i have never done more then a 4in lift so the 6 is new to me didnt know if the shafts will need to be lengthened or not and it will be a play toy for mudd and rock crawling around here so to sum it up i can use my shafts with a 6 but if im gunna play i need new shafts right?

Install lift kit, put the front of the frame on jack stands so the suspension/wheels etc hang free. If your splines are showing on the front shaft, it'll probably need lengthening. Rear shaft should be fine.

Cucvnut · Oct 10, 2010

its a cheap way to fix the real problem of having to short of a drive shaft. if your gonna lift it do it right get new drive shafts or wait till you can afford it the right way.

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