breaking free stuck lug nuts

Gadget -

That ebay wrench is neat because not only does it give you a little bit of gearing to help in the struggle, but it also keeps the inner lugnut from spinning while you're working on the outer. Really a great tool, but I am in the same boat as you - I am not sure how it actually performs.

Matt

I'm really enjoying the PS Magazine search function...here is the torque multiplier:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index...._lug_nuts&name=gallery&include=view_photo.php

Has anybody actually used on of these? Geared wrenches are nothing new but this one behooves me a bit. With a standard geared wrench there is a kickback bar. It would be easier for me to grasp if I had one to hold.

I had to use a pipe on a breaker bar on my ole '53 Stude M34. Put the bar on top of a cinder block with a 2x6 on the cinder block then drove it forward (right front tire)...you definately knew when it popped loose.

Gadget said:

On to impact guns...
Considering the torque multiplier effect and knowing they could have geared that 24v impact gun anyway they wanted, I'm really interested in hearing from anyone that's used one on rusted-stuck budd nuts. I've used a 1,200 Ft-lb Ingersol Rand impact gun with the correct diameter air hose and over-pressure from the compressor, yet that's only *barely* loosened the nuts...after going forward/reverse a half dozen times and using heat. I can't believe a 24v gun just plugs in and spins them off with ease. But I am prepared to be convinced....

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Gadget,

I had to change the brushes out in my Robo Impact wrench, so I pretty much disassembled it, just because that's who I am. Curious. It is geared, though I can't tell you what the gearing is. Though Advanced Dynamics is still in business and making the Robo Impact for the US military. I spoke with an engineer who sent me an exploded diagram of the Robo Impact that I own so I COULD disassemble it AND get it back together. Plus I ordered the rear plastic cover because I boogered it up getting one stuck screw out. The rest of the wrench had allen head screw EXCEPT for the rear. NOW all my screws are allen head. And while I did booger up the end piece, I kept it because I could still have used it in an emergency situation. Like if I backed over the end of it with a fully loaded deuce.

Besides, I'm all about working smart, not hard. My gunsmithing instructor said many times "If you ain't cheatin', you ain't trying". Basically he meant that there is ALWAYS someone else who figured out a better/easier way to do almost every task and you should take advantage of that 'cheat'.

So, I have the Robo Impact wrench. I have the 20 ton air/hydraulic bottle jack. I will be soon adding a hand cranked bed crane so I can get the tires up in the bed, because I'm designing a 'bridge truck' style headache rack. Mainly for storage and a place to mount two spares, because I'm going with dual saddle tanks on my truck, which eliminates the standard spare storage position.

Besides, with your member name you just GOTTA LOVE one more tool.

jim

Jim, I bought a Robo-Impact gun on ebay and it worked twice and died. Do you know anyone who repairs them? Where did you get the replacement brushes from? Thanks

WCJIV said:

Jim, I bought a Robo-Impact gun on ebay and it worked twice and died. Do you know anyone who repairs them? Where did you get the replacement brushes from? Thanks

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http://www.aircraftdynamics.com/

They sell parts and might even do repairs.

Thanks Jim. I have emailed them about repair.

Walter,
If it just needs a 'brush' change, it's easy. You can do that yourself. Did it just quit? Or did it make odd noises and then quit?

When I took mine apart, one of the brushes wires had come out. As I had been given a new set of brushes, I installed them. Then I used JB Weld to put the loose wire back into the brush (magnet). I let it sit overnight. So now I have another set of brushes and will be good to go for some time.

If you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact me.

jim

It just quit. I have not taken it apart yet. I will do a little exploratory surgery and see what is wrong that is obvious.

24volts well I have to see that one, I use a 3/4 or 1 inch impact wrench for my tough nuts on my M813, I have changed plenty of duece nuts and they should budge with air tools, try
the penetrating fluid and heat route first.

Well, in the never ending train wreck saga of my Deuce….
One upon a time, I blew a tire…big hole. However, in a rare case of forward thinking, I had purchased a budd wheel socket from Houdel. Shame about the tire, and the cost to replace it, but I’ve got the correct socket already so no problems, right?
Put the socket on a 1/2” impact wrench with a ½” to ¾” adapter and blasted away. Would not budge.
Ok, so I soaked all the lug nuts on the wheel with Liquid Wrench Super Penetrating Oil, set up vibrations on all of the nuts with the impact wrench and let them site for 24 hours. Tried again with the impact wrench…no dice. I put a breaker bar on it, nope. Put a four foot conduit on the breaker bar, nope.
So, since this was such a fun adventure, I broke out my lil’ Coleman propane torch that I use for sweating pipes and began to heat a nut. After heating the nut, I put the breaker bar with a seven foot piece of conduit and applied pressure.
At this point, I refer you to Houdel’s post: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=5972
Mine completely broke, not just merely deformed.
Ok, found a Roboimpact on eBay and got it. Oops, I have a 3 prong slave outlet and it requires a single pin one. So, I bid on one on eBay and got it. Now, three weeks later I trudge back out to use the miracle Roboimpact on these nuts that have been busting mine.
Same old story, the nuts stubbornly refused to give way, even to the Roboimpact. So, we break out the lil’ Coleman torch and begin to heat them and play switch. I would heat a nut, then Steve would hit it with the Roboimpact and I would heat the opposite net, then we would switch again after a bit.
Well, the Roboimpact lost to my $%&@#* nuts! The ½” male portion on the Roboimpact shattered. ‘Course, Houdel’s socket is still going strong with no problems (thanks Houdel…I would certainly recommend them). And yes, I was fortunately turning them the correct direction.
Out of all of this, I’ve got several questions for several people…

BFR:
What was the brand of breaker bar you used? If it will put up with that, it should put up with my 200 pounds hanging on a 7 foot conduit. Please, please, what is the model number and manufacturer?!

Wallew:
What is the email address of the engineer at Aircraft Dynamics? I’ve sent them an inquiry for an exploded view and parts list, as well as a .pdf of the manual if the could. I hear crickets chirping and no return email. Only one try and I am going to try again since I now NEED something from them. But I figured if you have someone that will take mercy on me….well…

Anyone else…:
Got any bright ideas…preferably not involving spending any more money? My commanding officer is a tad pissed at me breaking the tool I just shelled out $100.00 for, not to mention the breaker bar, and the wheel is still there.
Guess I’m back to my same old saying…
“If I didn’t have bad luck, I would not have any at all!”

I just scored a 3/4 drive roboimpact on e-bay for $9.99, the power cord is broken so hopefully it will be an easy fix, although it never is. I would gladly loan you my military torque multiplier wrench if you thought it would work, would have to ship it though.

Never had a nut I could not budge, inner or outer, on M37 thru M123 with other than hand tools...mostly without gear multiplier, too. After I tunred 60 I got one of those beauties...as it prevents inner nut from spinning with outer on duallies. Long pipe, support and a 200 lb guy at a 6 foot radius is 1200 lb.ft. and if you jump, it is even more... manual labor is good for you and a heck of a lot quieter than compressors, air wrenches or even electric impacts...ACE

Of course you have to realize that the nuts on the left loosen right and the nuts on the right loosen left...and sometimes they get mixed up by motor pool maniacs doing brake jobs and putting wrong hubs back on.... But they are marked on the stud L or R so take heed... Budd Nuts Rock.. ACE

Got any bright ideas…preferably not involving spending any more money? My commanding officer is a tad pissed at me breaking the tool I just shelled out $100.00 for, not to mention the breaker bar, and the wheel is still there.
Guess I’m back to my same old saying…
“If I didn’t have bad luck, I would not have any at all!”

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I'd have used a torch to cut the old nut off by now. I don't let my equipment bully me around like that, I show it who's boss!

Actually... I'd have a buddy of mine torch it off. He's VERY good with a torch and could cut that nut off without damaging the wheel or Budd nut.

Jon

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94109

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92622

One of those ought to do it. If they do not, it is torch time.

I fear that Momma will use the impact gun on MY NUTS if I buy another $100.00 tool to do what I already spent $100.00 on! $10.00 bucks for the ¾” Roboimpact?!! Yep, if I didn’t have bad luck….

Recovry4x4:
I have one of these & it works great. You don't need a kickback bar becuase it has a socket for the outer & inner nuts & holds them at the same time. As with a touque multiplier you need two bars, one to turn the nut & one that is held still. The square inner nut is used to hold the gear wrench from turning while you loosen the outer nut. You have to have 2 bars to use the gearing on the square nuts or front lugs. With the bar & the gear wrench all my lugs have come off with pretty easy. I think I paid about $65 for the gear wrench & 2 bars

SierraHotel said:

BFR:
What was the brand of breaker bar you used? If it will put up with that, it should put up with my 200 pounds hanging on a 7 foot conduit. Please, please, what is the model number and manufacturer?!

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name brand... CHINA
model number... uh... china
guess it was made on a good day
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