Manual Glow Plug install

well i was reading the forum and have never seen the pictures on it posted so thought i would do it and get ya'll to critique it and see if i did it right. I was looking for the "orange wire" on the top of the relay but mine doesnt have it so i left it alone. I left the controller card installed and functional and was using the switch as a backup and to help on warm starts where this one seems to be a bit sluggish. I didnt know that there were two blue wires until i was under the dash.

1. isolated light blue wire on controller card harness (beside purpleish wire) and spliced a wire going to a LED switch.
2. from LED switch Ground terminal ran a seperate wire to a easily accessable ground block. I usually make add-on stuff where i can pull a ground easily if needed.
3. switch is only powered when the key is in the start position not the accessory position, if i was going to do it again i would get a momentary switch but oreilles didnt have any.
4. If i hold it for a slow 10 count it seems to start as if the relay had just cycled

If i did this wrong please tell me i wont get butt hurt or anything. I was trying to follow about 4 different sets of directions on here and some of them were conflicting. I just want this done correctly. Thanks

Looks right to me. I just did the same to my M1008 last weekend. Mostly as a "just in case" but more likely as a "WHEN" my controller card decides to kick the bucket. Nothing worse than getting stuck in the woods in a Minnesota winter. I haven't had to use it yet, left the light blue wire plugged into my working controller card, spliced on an extension, ran that to one side of the switch, the other to one of the existing ground terminals under the dash.

I used a lighted toggle with a red flip-up cover over it. Was thinking of labeling it "ARM" and my starter push-button switch "FIRE" just for kicks. The lighted switch is nice, I know when it's working, or worse, left ON. I'm the only one that drives the truck though. I think just about everybody should do this, along with bypassing or replacing their Starter Relay. Easy projects, save some major pain later.

Does this bypass the card all together? If not, what's the advantage?

If you don't cut through the wire, only tack on a separate wire going to a switch, then it won't bypass or disable the controller card. Everything will still function as stock.
The advantage is that you have a backup in case your controller card or another component in the system fails, which is fairly common in these old trucks. For example, the engine block temp sensor failed on me and was not telling the controller card that the engine was cold and needed the glow plugs to start. I flipped my manual switch to fire the glow plugs, started it up and drove to get a new temp sensor. Also, sometimes after I've driven the truck and warmed it up then parked it for an hour or so, long enough for it to cool off some but not all the way, sometimes the controller card won't turn on the plugs because the motor is still somewhat warm. So, rather than cranking the starter forever I just flip the switch, turn the glow plugs on for a few seconds, and it starts right up.

Copy that. Thanks. Reason I ask is because I partially burned up the controller card in my 1008 the other day. I have another on the way, but I don't want to install until I am able to fully diag all the wiring. So I was looking at this as a temp measure (a lot quicker to splice in and ad a switch). The truck is new to me. It had the old "relay chatter" so I replaced the GP and starter relays, batteries (type 31s), and a lot of the main cables to ensure good power. But is still had the chatter. Once it warmed up, it stopped. But after a +/- 15 minute drive, as I was backing in my driveway, I smelled electrical burning. Located a scorch on the card next to a resister. So I don't want to continue to use the card and I don't want to ruin my new one.

how many volts should each glowplug be getting to cycle properly? the person before me did a hack job and im going to redo it all. thanks

The Glow Plugs need 12V. It's in the TM's.

usmcgunner said:

Copy that. Thanks. Reason I ask is because I partially burned up the controller card in my 1008 the other day. I have another on the way, but I don't want to install until I am able to fully diag all the wiring. So I was looking at this as a temp measure (a lot quicker to splice in and ad a switch). The truck is new to me. It had the old "relay chatter" so I replaced the GP and starter relays, batteries (type 31s), and a lot of the main cables to ensure good power. But is still had the chatter. Once it warmed up, it stopped. But after a +/- 15 minute drive, as I was backing in my driveway, I smelled electrical burning. Located a scorch on the card next to a resister. So I don't want to continue to use the card and I don't want to ruin my new one.

Click to expand...

You may want to disconnect the controller card then install a switch, and check your GP relay for proper function also. If you are the only one who ever drives the truck it might just be quicker, cheaper, easier, and less hassle than trying to keep replacing the controller card.

Did the switch. I know it's working because I'm hearing the click of the relay and I can see the load as the dash lights dim. Still having a heck of a time getting her to start though. I need to hit each one of the GPs to see if I'm getting current there. PO said he changed out the GPs, but that doesn't mean they're getting power. ugh next step.

You can also check each glow plug to make sure they're working. Even new ones burn out sometimes. I recommend the AC Delco 60G's. They don't swell and get stuck like some others. You'll have to double-check me on this but I believe each plug should show 60 Ohms of resistance. You can also pull them out, ground the GP case and throw a jumper cable on the GP lead over to your front battery +. The plug should glow red pretty quickly.

Good thread! I need to do this as well. I plan on using a toggle switch and LED.

As far as GP reistance - a good glow plug should read 3 ohms.

Ahhh.. 3 Ohms... 60 Ohms.... Slight difference there I knew someone smarter than me would correct that. Thanks.

Picked up the GPs today. Have to wait until tomorrow to swap them. I did a check each of them, well 6 out of 8. Part of the delay in checking current was that I need to finish the push button switch so I could enlist my 5 year old son. EASY INSTRUCTIONS....push, hold, let go. So got him home from preschool and each one was showing 10.5 volts. But there's 12.4 to the relay.....hmmmm.

You need to measure the ohms of each GP to test it. 0-3 ohms

If you have a voltage difference between the relay input and output, that shows your relay is bad.

GP diagnostics is in the -20TM.

Thanks Doghead. I was just making sure that I was getting current to the connectors. I planned on testing the resistance tomorrow when I pull them. (hopefully) I hope the relay isn't bad, I replaced it with a brand new one 2 or 3 weeks ago....along with your famous "Doghead Relay Mod." Thanks for that by the way. It worked well. So when I check voltage on the feed side of the relay, it's 12.4/5. Have child push button and it's 10.5 just like the GP leads. Back to Napa Crappa.

Yup.

usmcgunner said:

Picked up the GPs today. Have to wait until tomorrow to swap them. I did a check each of them, well 6 out of 8. Part of the delay in checking current was that I need to finish the push button switch so I could enlist my 5 year old son. EASY INSTRUCTIONS....push, hold, let go. So got him home from preschool and each one was showing 10.5 volts. But there's 12.4 to the relay.....hmmmm.

Click to expand...

Couldn't you use a remote starter switch to energize the relay? Just a thought to make life a little easier.

Hey buddy, don't rain on my quality father/son time!! lol

Thanks for the pics. I don't know why my 1008's have different colored wiring at the controller card but the pics helped identify location of colored wires to troubleshoot. Still troubleshooting but thanks for the pics!