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V100 mods

135gmc

New member
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Location
St Paul/MN
Remember that epoxy primer either needs a color coat within a few days, or a second coat of epoxy primer when you are ready to spray the color. If you don't, the color coat won't bond to the primer. That happened to a friend's Jeep - the end result was OD paint that could be pulled off with masking tape.
 

wgtactical

Well-known member
674
315
63
Location
Carrollton, Georgia
Here's a before and after pic of the axles. After sandblasting, epoxy priming and a finish coat of automotive urethane, the complete overhaul included larger axles, disc brakes, new bearings, bushings and seals, lockouts, Detroit lockers and a few other items.
 

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wgtactical

Well-known member
674
315
63
Location
Carrollton, Georgia
Here’s the improved clamp plate made from one piece T304 stainless steel that secures the axles to the leaf springs…the original ones (made from six pieces of mild steel) would have worked, but like most mil spec stuff, I didn't care too much for the way they looked :lol:
 

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wgtactical

Well-known member
674
315
63
Location
Carrollton, Georgia
Here’s the rear axle installed, now I’m waiting on the stainless steel hardware for the Monroe Gas Magnum shocks. The leaf springs were individually powder coated and all hardware was replaced with stainless steel.
 

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axlr8

Member
424
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16
Location
Rushford MN
what kind of hardware do you need? if its from monroe personally, dont use an impact on it... use a torque wrench and go to your spec...my brother being the impact lover he is..just spun off a ser of new 3/4 inch shock bolts for his 87 chevy...with a cordless impact. We have 2 sets in the mail so we have extras...and BTW ssweet build! It will be a great vehicle when completed!
 

wgtactical

Well-known member
674
315
63
Location
Carrollton, Georgia
I ordered some stainless steel nylon lock jam nuts and flat washers to replace the plated steel ones. Also I rarely use an impact wrench and when I do, it's usually for disassembly.
 

Stalwart

Well-known member
1,739
33
48
Location
Redmond, WA
Remeber with stainless hardware, it only has the strength of mild steel. Plus, apply thread lubricant on the threads, it will preven galling. I've been bit by that when a friend "helped" me with my boat's second stern drive while I was working on the first. I applied anti-seize on mine and he didn't, 1/2 of his were galled the next time I removed the drive and I had to replace the SS studs.
 

wgtactical

Well-known member
674
315
63
Location
Carrollton, Georgia
Remeber with stainless hardware, it only has the strength of mild steel.
There are different grades of stainless fasteners, and some I use are comparable to grade 8...they're expensive, but available. Some non-stainless fasteners I use are grade 8 or grade 9 because of the strength requirements. And yes I know about the anti-seize precaution...as a matter of fact, it is mandatory on any stainless fastener that has no threadlocker specification. Most of our primary work involves stainless steel, so we've become pretty familiar on what you can and can not do with it.
 

Stalwart

Well-known member
1,739
33
48
Location
Redmond, WA
I agree that stainless differs amongst it's different alloys. I only have 316L fasteners in my hardware bins. Great corrosion resistance, especially at elevated temperatures. I only use this alloy unless very high shear or tensile strength is required.
 

wgtactical

Well-known member
674
315
63
Location
Carrollton, Georgia
Well, today was a good day! I purchased a spare transfer case for my machine from a gentleman who also shared a ton of history and stories when he personally delivered it to the shop :cool: He also gave me a lot of extra stuff too...some of which I didn't know was even available, like this new V-100 parts manual :jumpin:
 

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