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My Chevy c-6500 has full disk brakes all the way around. It tips the scales at about 23,000 pounds and stops like my half ton Chevy. As long as the system is designed for that kind of weight disks work excellent.
My local alternator/starter shop helped me find this company - not that there aren't others out there, but these guys are who I could find. They did a great job and a low price: I dealt with Rob at Hoosier Electric, 219-844-8389. He simply asked me to send him my stator and rotor and he would rewind. So the local shop disassembled, I sent the rotor/stator, then local shop reassembled after I received rewound pieces.
I actually did have a 24V starter built and that is what I used. It does seem a little vague in the write up, but I did have the local shop build me a 24V. I did this for amperage draw, but could have left it 12V. However, since 24V are readily accessible, so I would do it again.
No - I made some hand sketches and built from that. I do not remember if I explained that I used a different driver's side motor mount - the stock Cummins mounts are different from one side to the other, and is kinda funky. Justin Wehring informed me of this and I'll have to look at which other cummins mount I used. It wouldn't have been a problem, but this let me build the two frame mounts identical.
This will take some planning; it did for me. Intercooling was imperative for me. If I did not need that, then I feel I could have reused the stocker and the swap would have been easier. I could have likely either used a mechanical fan or a simpler electric. But since I wanted the intercooler in order to make reliable power, then I did not feel like the stock deuce rad would be able to cool well enough. The Cummins motor I had was a 2175 CPL at 215hp - however, even with 210 vs 130hp, I would not have done this swap with 1600s tires. While 175hp and 210hp are tremendous power improvements (not to mention at least 50% more torque) over the MF engine, this was a lot of work and I am performance-oriented. The motor is at about 350hp/800tq... that helps make the work even more worth it to me. And these power upgrades were only a few hundred bucks.
I knew that the 2wd version of the Dodge NV4500 had a very long slip yoke that would be way too long. While looking for rebuilt '4500s, I contacted a guy that builds them on Ebay and discussed. Before I could suggest a GM short tailhousing, he said he could do it. So sent me a rebuilt NV4500 with Dodge front and GM short fixed yoke rear. (His name is Jim - I have his number if you need)
No problem. It was a lot of work and I learned a lot. The things I planned for went well. Amazingly, the things I did not plan for also went well. Please let me know if I can help with anything else.
purely enjoyable. really has the power to get to whatever speed you need - no trying to wind out a gear to make sure you get to the right speed. just press harder and you'll get there no matter what gear.
I know, I know... I haven't taken any more videos at all. I've been asked many many times and I just haven't done it. I really do mean to... time keeps getting in the way. I will try to make a concerted effort.
I've been thinking about it. Besides the usual desire to do the work cleaner next time (I always intend to do perfectionist things like running all wires perfectly and nicely loomed but it never actually happens as clean), I don't know that I would do much differently.
I wanted 1600s, and you can't fit them on a stock deuce without doing a lot of work to the rear suspension. Also, the biggest benefit is overall size - maneuverability is a good bit better being 3' shorter in length and shorter wheelbase.
