NTC 400 Mo Power

eldgenb · Jan 18, 2011

none particular, it is cheap(less than $20 for all of it), easy to source, every napa has it, it is more similar to the OE setup that has been in there and worked great the last 30 years so why mess with it. Just my thinking.

eldgenb · Jan 18, 2011

well I got a second wind and decided to move further ahead with the fueling mods. I also did a tune up, filters and belts and took pics of the correct part #'s to save you the time at your parts store trying to measure and read through books for an hour. I also Included a pic of me freezing my a$$ off at 11pm getting these photo's to share with the community. The item to the rear of the pump that I am pointing at is where the "fuel button" , "Governor Spring", and "idle adjustment" are located. I added shims between the gov. spring and the spring retainer, each shim added is roughly 30 rpm gained, I added 5 shims. *****WARNING***** When you remove the snap ring for the spring retainer it is under pressure, if you did not know this like I did not and quickly removed the snap ring you will have a yard sale of parts all over your driveway in the middle of the night with only a led headlamp to assist you in finding a spring retainer and 3 original paper thin shims.

The second Item I am pointing at is the aneroid adjustment which dictates how much the truck will fuel pre boost. There is a tin cover on the pumps that covers this up with some creative cutting and brute force I removed the tin cover completely on mine for ease of adjustment.

One last thing, a good practice to get into is marking all of your filters with the date changed and current mileage of the truck, will save you a mess time trying to remember "when the H#LL did I last change that thing"

M920 · Jan 18, 2011

NDT said:
Jeeze you guys . . . Gull wings?? Coffin hood?? It's called a Butterfly hood. Real trucks still have them.

Sorry NDT.....by calling them a "Coffin Hood" I was not trying to insult the correct term for the contraptions, but instead I was just trying to point out to the guys where you might end up, if you're not real carefull with those things..... [thumbzup]

Soni

cornrichard · Jan 18, 2011

This has been super helpful to me so far. I can't thank you enough. When you get around to the aneroid adjustment I will be on the edge of my chair. One of my trucks has aneroid trouble. When it shifts there is a pretty good lag then the turbo finally spools up and I get full power. I think the aneroid is the screw inside the pump cover closest to the front of the motor. I have been waiting months for someone to open theirs up so I could look inside the pump cover. Thanks!

eldgenb · Jan 18, 2011

cornrichard said:
This has been super helpful to me so far. I can't thank you enough. When you get around to the aneroid adjustment I will be on the edge of my chair. One of my trucks has aneroid trouble. When it shifts there is a pretty good lag then the turbo finally spools up and I get full power. I think the aneroid is the screw inside the pump cover closest to the front of the motor. I have been waiting months for someone to open theirs up so I could look inside the pump cover. Thanks!

I have not adjusted it yet but I did expose it in one of the pictures above for reference.

Floridianson · Jan 18, 2011

eldgenb said:
You know I have thought a lot about it but that is as far as I have gone, I am a virgin when it comes to injection pumps so if someone could explain the principal operation and how to modify it I would be in!!

I really want to avoid going into the engine too much, I honestly don't need as much power as it puts down stock but I can never leave well enough alone. Once I get the 15 spd in the truck the extra power will be nice to pull the extra OD gear in the tranny.

I would think you can just run her and hope she don't have any fuel knock. If so you will have to regasket the injectors for what I have been reading. Thicker gasket advances thiner retards something along them lines.

NDT · Jan 18, 2011

Is there any way to make the engine burn less fuel? I just filled up my M916 and it cost almost $350.

Floridianson · Jan 18, 2011

NDT said:
Is there any way to make the engine burn less fuel? I just filled up my M916 and it cost almost $350.

The truth. Thats why I will put my .02 in but have no disire to change anything about my motor with prices as they are now.
Also I have a J at the end of my numbers.BC 400J. I have a large turbo on mine and it sound like a fright train when she winds up . I don't haul anything heavy but have used it to haul the M817 back from Albany and I had to look back to make shure it was there.

Floridianson · Jan 18, 2011

Good thread though. You going to put a fuel perssure gage on her? Look preatty good on the dash.

Bighurt · Jan 18, 2011

NDT said:
Is there any way to make the engine burn less fuel? I just filled up my M916 and it cost almost $350.

Is there anyway to make big oil lower their price?

I didn't think so either...

The sad thing is the more people use alternative energy the higher fuel prices will go because big oil doesn't want to lose the linings in their pockets now do they.

Back to your original question.

-Make sure tire pressure is correct.
-Ensure you are using properly rated oil and of adequate amount
-Make sure the gravity of your coolant is correct.
-Don't haul stuff you don't need.
-Don't drive like a dragster.
-Don't turn it on.

Floridianson · Jan 18, 2011

oldMan99 said:
Is there a reason to use hard line instead of braided SS line and AN fittings?

Don't think you want any rubber product after the PT could be bad.

Bighurt · Jan 18, 2011

Floridianson said:
Good thread though. You going to put a fuel perssure gage on her? Look preatty good on the dash.

I'm sure you guys don't worry about it but I do up here.

Do they make fuel temp gauges? You comment on pressure gauge made me think about temperature, as I monitor fuel rail pressure on my 350...but I'd love to see temp.

Floridianson · Jan 18, 2011

Bighurt -Don't turn it on.[/QUOTE said:
Best one yet. I have found the bigger the motor the less fuel you burn compared to a med. size motor that you allways have your foot to the floor on level ground.

Bighurt · Jan 18, 2011

Anybody know how much fuel is used in starting the motor? I guesstimate would be cool...

My F350 uses in summer about a 6th of a gal turning over and bringing up the oil pressure.

M920 · Jan 19, 2011

Floridianson said:
Best one yet. I have found the bigger the motor the less fuel you burn compared to a med. size motor that you allways have your foot to the floor on level ground.

I found that to be true with my ISX 600HP versus the original BC 1 400HP.

The electronic ISX 600hp actually gets better fuel milage then the mechanical BC1 400HP...... and I got 200 more horsies to play with!!!! :jumpin:

Soni

eldgenb · Jan 19, 2011

Floridianson said:
Best one yet. I have found the bigger the motor the less fuel you burn compared to a med. size motor that you allways have your foot to the floor on level ground.

All of these fuel mileage posts all relate to one thing... Power to weight ratio, the more power you have (in the diesel world) the less an engine has to work to get a vehicle to a desired speed. This should also ring true with the modifications that I am making to my truck, well so long as I don't drive it like an idiot so I am sure my mileage will not change much

. The best thing I did to my 07 dodge 5.9 was add 100 hp, gained a ton of power and my mileage went up 5 mpg!! Well when I was not clouding intersections that is

.

eldgenb · Jan 19, 2011

Bighurt said:
I'm sure you guys don't worry about it but I do up here.

Do they make fuel temp gauges? You comment on pressure gauge made me think about temperature, as I monitor fuel rail pressure on my 350...but I'd love to see temp.

The only gauges I intend to add are egt and boost. Don't much care about the fuel pressure, I am not changing buttons or anything to raise it to any alarming pressure, if it starts to leak I know I have a problem. I am going to drill the panel that contains the headlight switch and such and remove the BO light switch and the one below it to install the gauges in the dash.

Floridianson · Jan 19, 2011

Here is a pic of the two different Turbos. The big one is on my M920 and the smaler was on the M916

I still think a rail pressure gage would be nice. If you had put a T where you hooked up the new fuel line you test and gage there.

oldMan99 · Jan 19, 2011

Floridianson said:
Here is a pic of the two different Turbos. The big one is on my M920 and the smaler was on the M916

I still think a rail pressure gage would be nice. If you had put a T where you hooked up the new fuel line you test and gage there.

Do you see better power or better MPG or both on the one with the larger turbo?

Do all 920's have the larger one?

Do all 916's have the smaller one?

And.... Thanks for the pics!

Floridianson · Jan 19, 2011

Never drove the 916's they were bought as resadue.
Don't know about the turbo's but I like my turbo.

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