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Hood skin separating from braces...

linx310

New member
478
0
0
Location
texas
I noticed that the areas on braces under the hood skin of my hood have separated. Now when I go down the road I can see the hood skin on the passenger side vibrating.

I really do not want to weld the braces back to the hood skin because I would have to repaint the vehicle. From what it looks like they may have been glued.

Do you think if I cleaned up these areas and used jb weld with text books on top of the hood skin I could get it to bond?
 

A3superdeuce

Member
47
1
8
Location
Turpin, OK
They use a flexable adhesive from the factory so that the hood will still flex a little with opening and closing as well as temp changes. You don't want to bond it solid or it will buckle.
 

JDToumanian

Active member
1,655
14
38
Location
Phelan, CA
Be sure to fix it or the sheet metal skin will stress crack right in the middle.... That will cause your hood to look like mine. :roll:
 

rod

New member
165
2
0
Location
Alabama - The Heart of Dixie
I'm not sure that JB weld would hold it. Have you checked with some of the Auto Body Supply store or Auto Body Shop to see what they recommend? I suspect a body panel adhesive would be your best chance of holding the hood skin to the braces.

I had the same problem, but knew I was going to paint, so I used the wire-welder to reattach the braces to the skin.
 

319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,349
49
48
Location
Michigan
I used a two part auto body panel adhesive on mine. Has held up very well. Can't remember the brand but 3M also makes it. Cost about $35.
 

jbingvtx

Member
529
2
18
Location
Meadow Bridge, WV
I've never owned a CUCV but several of the civvy GMs of this vintage and if you don't keep the hood hinges lubricated well it really messes with the welds and can even cause the hood to buckle in the middle. So if you get the skin stuck back down, make sure to make the hinges slippery.
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,630
136
63
Location
south elgin illinois
I had a lot of 1009s like that usually has the tell tale crack through the rib in the center they are a real pain to open because that takes the spring tension out of the hood so they dont release right. I usually replace the hood but I have saved a few by useing the adhesive called liquid nails after applying the adhesive put a block on your air cleaner and rest the hood down on it and weight the front of the hood down so it keeps pressure on it for a few hours.
 

zout

Well-known member
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
I think its named Silkaflex - tube you can use in your caulk gun - made for this problem for scuffing. Try HD or Lowes. Trying to remember the product # but I think it is 215. Black tube - works wonders like a silicone but better. I use this on semi trailers ribs and skin.
 

mikelee

New member
189
1
0
Location
montrose,michigan
Mine also did this I re-urethaned and also used great stuff expanding foam amazing how much quieter and the foam really sticks filled in the holes let dry and trimmed 2 years now
 

maxim

Member
I used the remainder of a tube of sealant that I used to hold in automotive glass. It flexes, does not freeze, very sticky, and allows the steel on the hood to move with the temperature changes, and comes in black. Used on a 1009 and 880 with excellent results.
 

Yellowsub1962

New member
8
0
0
Location
Peyton, Colorado
I'd also suggest SEM non sag structural adhesive #39337.
You don't have to buy the special gun and mixing tips if you're only going ot use it once, just mix equal parts like JB weld. This stuff flat out works.

here's the first link that popped up in my search
SEM 39337 Door Skin & SMC Adhesive
I buy it from my local auto body supply store about $29ea
 
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