What did you do to your deuce this week?

Put a new clutch in yesterday and put it all back together, need to fine tune the freeplay and should be good to go .

Happy Easter everyone .

Rogue Valley OR. I briefly lived near White City in a tent on the Rogue river about 40 years ago. Nice truck.......

davidb56 said:

Rogue Valley OR. I briefly lived near White City in a tent on the Rogue river about 40 years ago. Nice truck.......

Click to expand...

That sounds like an interesting story, and I have heard a few about Bonners Ferry, sounds like a good place to retire .
HMU if you ever get back down this a way ....

put in a momentary switch on the cross member so the shift rod will engage it in reverse for a large LED back up light.. I'll finish wiring it soon as Im changing over to LED tail lights. I already have them up front. Put the Mr gasket shift boots on. next week I'll paint the floor with bed liner and slop some on that nasty crome trim.

davidb56 said:

put in a momentary switch on the cross member so the shift rod will engage it in reverse for a large LED back up light.. I'll finish wiring it soon as Im changing over to LED tail lights. I already have them up front. Put the Mr gasket shift boots on. next week I'll paint the floor with bed liner and slop some on that nasty crome trim.

Click to expand...

I plasti dipped mine. Turned out pretty good.

Spent Saturday installing a pyrometer gauge and a boost gauge. I followed a similar gauge bracket idea from an old post of a fellow SS member I saw awhile ago. Drill and tap was easy (did it with the engine running). I got the existing screw out of the top of the intake for the boost gauge. I didn't want to strip the allen bolt... so penetrating oil, heat, tap tap tap, repeat....finally broke it loose.
Just drove it for the first time today to start documenting the readings.
I'm not sure if I'll bypass the FDC or even play with the fuel adjustment at this time. Just thought it couldn't hurt to add the gauges and see what the engine is doing.

M50 H2O distributor

Got my new to me (and the truck) cab put on yesterday, Easter Sun.
Clutch and trans all put back together and adjusted Sat. the day before .

Need the paint the entire truck back to the old dark green, not sure where to find that, but I'm betting the info is in here, somewhere ...

Here's a few pics, hope I'm not hogging the thread up to much with my mundane ongoings .

VR....Thanks for posting up. Lots of people use Behr house paint over red primer. I'd consider the Rustoleum camo rattle cans to work on smaller areas and is an oil base. I prefer an oil based paint to seal the primer. I notice eventually the acrylic latex shows rust getting going.

Maybe you could start a build thread. It helps you to document your progress if you use SS that way.

Valley Rock said:

Got my new to me (and the truck) cab put on yesterday, Easter Sun.
Clutch and trans all put back together and adjusted Sat. the day before .

Need the paint the entire truck back to the old dark green, not sure where to find that, but I'm betting the info is in here, somewhere ...

Here's a few pics, hope I'm not hogging the thread up to much with my mundane ongoings .

Click to expand...

Gillespie paint is another good paint, matches factory paint the best, this is either online order, or sometimes at local military shows.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

I picked up Queen Lola from storage today. She had been sitting for 6 months and I did not start her up once this winter (a first; time did not permit). Battery disconnect on, accessory switch on, instant strong buzzer. Start button; 3 second crank and she fired right up.

I took her on an 80 mile (120 km) round trip to stretch her ...legs? ....wheels? and she seemed to enjoy it. I made sure the drive train got thoroughly heat soaked. No spurting oil anywhere. A few of the usual seeps. I notice that after about an hour of driving everything seems to loosen up and she feels so much smoother. Maybe that is all BS and it is my body becoming numb, my brain woozy from the hot air blowing into the cab and my ears deaf and I no longer notice half of what's going on.

Today I was in that weird mood where I could have just continued driving...somewhere...anywhere...for hours...for a day or two. Alas, I work tomorrow, so no-go.

I installed a gun mount in the cab, and replaced the exhaust stack.

The gun mount is great for holding drink cups, too!

I pulled a master cylinder on my forest service deuce and a half, rebuilt it, and reinstalled it. It's now a 3 bolt master cylinder... good gravy that last bolt was difficult to get. I'll tell the next owner and let him reinstall that last bolt if he really wants to.

Replaced a section of rusted brake line.

Refilled and bled the brakes.

She starts and stops now. First time that vehicle moved under it's own power since 2011, probably (that was the last year of registration the A&M Forest Service had on it).

Today I re-installed the drivers wiper air motor that I removed and cleaned. Pretty much all it needed to work again, and also installed 2 new 12" blades and all wiper air hoses. Wipers working the way they should, next will be all brake hoses and remote brake fluid reservoir.

Ordered 4 new old stock 11r20 Michelin XLs for the rear. Broke down a 5 ton wheel that had a new 11r20 Michelin XL on it. Cleaned up the inside of the tire. Cleaned up the tube and flap. Aired the tube up and checked it for leaks. Made a new shifter knob out of a pair of steel knuckles. Ordered a lemon grenade to use as a hood ornament.

Working on my driveshaft for the 4x4 and have somewhat of a fiasco. I started without realizing that the driveshaft from the transfer case to the first rear axle was not the same size or u-joint as the one from the first rear to the second rear. I'm going to leave out the gory details.

The fourth package of parts should arrive shortly. I spent for a few parts that I won't use trying to stay entirely OEM style and size and found that some components were not available, then found that I could transition to the modern 1410 series u-joint and keep the 3" tube.

If you want to use any of your OEM when lengthening a driveshaft into two units, you will have to use the size for 3" tube. If you go to 1480 series, the smallest is 3.5", so none of your OEM driveshaft could be used, all must be bought new (may be a better way to start with).

My area is facing severe flooding. Queen Lola was at work, hauling sand bags today. A front loader can deliver about 100 bags, a loader about 250 and Lola carries 500+. Monday the river will crest. My basement is getting wet as we speak but I am much better off than many others in the community. People were happy when my M35 pulled into their driveway, loaded to the gills. Hand bombing sandbags is a workout. I am cheering myself up with all the gym money I'm saving right now.

M35A2 receiver hitch

I added a new reciever hitch.

I figured out that a NON "Camelbac" hydration carrier is a *perfect* fit over the stack of my Deuce to help keep rain and other stuff out. It is the older 6" square style, about 1 foot long. if anyone is interested in the rough size. I wrapped one of the MOLLE tails around the mirror leg, and back into the pouch webbing to secure it.

installed Summit part # WLK-41472, WLK-41686, AND 20" of part# SUM_640040-1.........for my "snorkel".