What did you do to your deuce this week?

rustystud · Mar 26, 2019

Floridianson said:
The "over-flow" valve has a "hole" in it to "always" allow some fuel to "flow" through "it" when there is "pressure" in the "system" from tank "pump" or "boost'' pump. So "when" the "truck" is just sitting "there" engine "off" then would it "not" seem that "there" would be "no" pressure "to" hold back "till" the engine "started" and in tank "pump" not working? The "plunger" makes "the" pressure right "and" the "delivery" valve holds the "pressure" till the "plunger" gets the "fuel" compressed to a "certain" pressure with "what" fuel is just "sitting'' and "held" in "place" because "the" "fuel" line ''that" is coming down "from" the "final fuel filter" going to the "Head" and then "back up "to'' the "secondary" is just sitting there with no "pressure" but "full". "Yes" "truck" will "not" "start". Sorry right "index" finger "has" a "twitch'' '' '' '' '' '' ''.

So to recap and on my meds so my finger does not twitch. From what is in the TM and what I understand the over flow valve is there to keep the boost pump pressure at around 60 psi at high idle no load in the fuel control area for the "plunger" (oops meds not working) and it will fully open at 70 psi so as not to over pressurize the head and blow out any O rings. When we turn on the in tank pump the small hole or orifice in the over flow valve will allow small amount of fuel to run through the head and back to the tank. With the small hold there any pressure is lost in the system when the engine is off.
Without the over flow valve the head would never see the sixty pounds it needs to operate at peck performance.

First off get your meds checked. Second, I agree with what you said. That is why if that valve is "stuck" """""" open then it will allow the fuel to """"bypass""" the hydraulic head not allowing enough fuel to compress as there will not be any fuel """"" . So basically you just said what I've been saying in two posts now.
Now, like I said in my first post this is just speculation. Just throwing out ideas to check.
Or does that trouble you ?
After reading your post again I see your not on the same page as me at all. Your talking about the "relief" valve in the filter assembly aren't you. I'm talking about the hydraulic head relief valve. Either that or your confusing the two. Since the "fuel filter" relief valve controls the maximum pressure of 60 PSI .

Floridianson · Mar 26, 2019

Still derailed and still sorry.

Maverick1701 · Mar 26, 2019

The other day, during my post winter shakedown drive, I gak-ed my drivers mirror on my fence while backing in (it popped the glass out of the frame which shattered when it hit the ground)

Well I ordered two new mirrors from Bret Fox AKA fuzzytoaster. They arrived today & I installed them in about 15min.

In the comparison shots, the new mirror is on the left & the old mirror is on the right. Now I'm off for a relaxing "sunday drive" in my M35A2.....

Kwaligura · Mar 26, 2019

Hauled a Ford Escape to the scrap yard in the dropside deuce.

ballencd · Mar 26, 2019

Ordered a tachometer cable and an e-brake cable. Both been needed for months.

I started it yesterday and topped up the brake fluid which was empty! Can't find the leak so far.

Kaiser67M715 · Mar 26, 2019

ballencd said:
Ordered a tachometer cable and an e-brake cable. Both been needed for months.

I started it yesterday and topped up the brake fluid which was empty! Can't find the leak so far.

Best to pull all the drums and check behind the rubber boots on the wheels cylinders. Another possibility is within the air pack itself, there are a couple different ways for fluid to leak out but be undetectable.

Please figure out the source of the leak before driving on the road, for your safety and others.

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fpchief · Mar 26, 2019

ballencd said:
Ordered a tachometer cable and an e-brake cable. Both been needed for months.

I started it yesterday and topped up the brake fluid which was empty! Can't find the leak so far.

Just give it **** on the road. I am sure there is a Subaru close by to soften the stop!! JK. On my '66, I had to add fluid every couple of months and ended up tracking the leaks down to a couple of wheel cylinders. I had a few leaking hubs and ended up being brake fluid also.

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Sparkyz911 · Mar 26, 2019

Got exterior bed lights installed over last couple days. 27w LEDs, flood on each side and 2 spots facing rear. I can actually see backing up now, LOL. I also managed to get the LED healights aimed today as well.

Deplorable1 · Mar 26, 2019

Sparkyz911 said:
Got exterior bed lights installed over last couple days. 27w LEDs, flood on each side and 2 spots facing rear. I can actually see backing up now, LOL. I also managed to get the LED healights aimed today as well.

View attachment 759217 View attachment 759218 View attachment 759219 View attachment 759220 View attachment 759221

Nice, I've been wanting to do this for awhile now. Are you running 24 volt? What brand lights and where did you get them? Thanks.

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Sparkyz911 · Mar 26, 2019

Deplorable1 said:
Nice, I've been wanting to do this for awhile now. Are you running 24 volt? What brand lights and where did you get them? Thanks.

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I got the bed lights from superbrightleds.com. They are 2025 lumen each and are capable of 12-24vdc. The sides are square 60degree and the tears are round 30degree. I originally bought these for a boat project but sold the boat. It's a bit overkill, but I paid under 100 for the 4 on sale.

rustystud · Mar 27, 2019

Floridianson said:
The Head over flow valve is there to keep the pressure up to 60 psi so the Head can operate correctely at higher rpm. It also has a hole in it so fuel can flow through it with just the in tank pump running. Think of a garden hose with no end on it and water turned on. We have flow but no pressure and the well is putting out 60 psi. Now put a nozzle end on it and it will hold back the flow creating pressure. As long as we have flow through the head and not pressure the truck would start and run even if it had to much flow. It does not bypass the fuel through the Head it just does not see the higher pressure. It might only idle but it will still run but you could not drive it. Yes we have two valves in the system. The secondary fuel canister pressure protection valve that opens at around 80 psi. Then the Head over flow valve is there to turn flow into pressure the Head needs to operate so the truck can be driven. Derailed this thread long enough.

OK, first off the "overflow valve" does not keep pressure at 60 PSI . That is the job of the "fuel pressure relief valve" .
Second, the hole is there for "air" accumulation to escape and for "cooling" of the pump head. Not for the fuel to flow with just the in-tank pump running.
Now according to TM 9-2815-210-34 and TM 9-2815-210-35, they say the "overflow" valve can cause low fuel pressures in the hydraulic head.
I've posted the pertinent information here.

Now another thing to check for poor fuel pressure is of course the "pressure relief valve" in the fuel filter housing. If it is stuck it too can cause the engine to not run.
Also the "plunger" in the pump can be worn out. The plunger "sleeve" can be worn and or sticking too.
Another thing to consider is the whole Hydraulic Head is crap. All this and more can cause a "no run" condition.

Floridianson · Mar 27, 2019

I don't think we should keep derailing this thread. I am getting ready to leave the house now for Newberry and maybe we can find a thread on the IP and discuss the finer points you brought up. Also I am still half asleep. I will say I got a "smile" on my face when you finely called the "plunger" a "plunger".

Kwaligura · Mar 27, 2019

Greased the 76 dropside deuce. Found what I think is the source of the vibration. The transmission output shaft yoke only had 2 bolts left in it and one was loose. Looks like a trip to the hardware store is in order.

ballencd · Mar 27, 2019

Brake Fluid Leak.

Kaiser67M715 said:
Best to pull all the drums and check behind the rubber boots on the wheels cylinders. Another possibility is within the air pack itself, there are a couple different ways for fluid to leak out but be undetectable.

Please figure out the source of the leak before driving on the road, for your safety and others.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

I just use the truck in the yard so no road worries. One day maybe but I have to find the leak first. I just replaced the axle boot on one side and looked at the slave cylinder but it was ok. Both axles have been leaking it might have hidden the brake leak. When i replace the second boot I will know more. The back drums will be a lot harder to check.

Deplorable1 · Mar 27, 2019

Sparkyz911 said:
I got the bed lights from superbrightleds.com. They are 2025 lumen each and are capable of 12-24vdc. The sides are square 60degree and the tears are round 30degree. I originally bought these for a boat project but sold the boat. It's a bit overkill, but I paid under 100 for the 4 on sale.

Nice, thanks for the info. They look plenty bright and that's exactly what I'm looking for.

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rustystud · Mar 28, 2019

Floridianson said:
I don't think we should keep derailing this thread. I am getting ready to leave the house now for Newberry and maybe we can find a thread on the IP and discuss the finer points you brought up. Also I am still half asleep. I will say I got a "smile" on my face when you finely called the "plunger" a "plunger".

I don't how you can say we "derailed" this thread. Since this is the "what did you do to your deuce this week" forum. Also naming a part by another name doesn't mean anything really. How many times have you called a differential a "rear end" ?
We all know what your referring to. Same thing here. Plunger, compressor rod, we all know what I'm saying.
I just wanted anyone else who's reading this post looking for help to know that the "overflow" valve can cause problems with a deuce engine not running correctly. One of many items but still one to look at. Your constant denial of that fact only hurts those who are looking for answers. So I posted the facts.

tobyS · Mar 28, 2019

Safety....

I about gave my right thumb to my deuce project but God let me keep it a while longer (both thumb and deuce project).

We are dealing with a lot of weight and mass in motion tends to stay in motion unless a body part is there to stop it. Don't do that.

fpchief · Mar 28, 2019

Dang. They look nice. I wish I was at that point of adding nice LED's.

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Scar59 · Mar 28, 2019

Finally dropped the transmission out of the A3. Soldier B (Private Wrench), and I had it on the floor in 4 hours. No smashed fingers, no busted knuckles, no broken hardware. Now to get it to a good shop.

tobyS · Mar 28, 2019

Scar59...If you don't find one that you want to go with, Rochester Indiana is far away but the guy that did mine is excellent on the Allison....and I bought him a $600 book with all the details.

If whoever you chose does not have the right manual....walk away. That's a nice clean holding jig. Did you have clutch abrasive in the pan? How about little balls of aluminum?

Never say never....I've had a very good safety record, not just for myself but with those I work with. But with 50 years of fabrication, shi+ happens.

What did you do to your deuce this week?

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