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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Nomad1

Nomad1

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View attachment 772798View attachment 772799View attachment 772800The story behind the photos the first has a grade 8 in place of the orginal screw I had ordered a complete set of new hinge bolts base on the part number from the Tm. What they sent was the ones for the door side of the hinge.So while the grade 8 is total overkill I don't suggest using stainless in that sizes because most Stainless won't be as strong as the origal screws. The second picture is a quick pin I used till the new hinge pin bolt came in. Want to have removable doors on your big jeep use these. Last picture is of the hinge bolt as some of you know they are not just a regular bolt.
 
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whatadeuce

whatadeuce

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Hey Mrmag1, The color design of your machine is the best!
Today I offerd to help move a mobil trailer. Didn't think the deuce could do that, did you!v WELL IT CAN!
I am extending the rear so as to accomodate the trailer 5 th wheel fitting. More pics to come as I build it...
 

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cattlerepairman

cattlerepairman

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First coat of Raptor liner sprayed. That was the fun part. Aside from dodging the weather. The prep part...less fun. My wife took a pic...

Tomorrow second coat and also bed sides.


Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
Wolfgang the Gray

Wolfgang the Gray

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Went last night to Turf Paradise in Glendale, AZ last night to be part of the photo shoot for our club's 2020 Arizona Military Vehicle Show flyer. Four vehicles showed (including a Canadian Ford F8) for the shoot. Unfortunately, my canvas cargo top tore another grommet out (I just had one on the other side repaired a few months ago). Also noticed small tears in both front boots so that is my next project. Plan on going with the newly designed boots from Rockwell Off-road based on reading a lot of posts about different boots.

Photo Shoot for 2020 AMVCC Show Flyer - 08-09-2019.jpg2nd Torn Grommet - 08-09-2019.jpgPhoto Shoot for 2020 AMVCC Show Flyer 2 - 08-09-2019.jpg

Sorry about the extra duplicate photos. Had issues uploading the images & then couldn't figure out how to delete the duplicates or delete the whole post & start over.
 

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Wolfgang the Gray

Wolfgang the Gray

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fasttruck said:
Working with tube tires at home is not an insurmountable problem. Many commercial shops will not do them as few have been fitted to commercial trucks for the last 20 years and many tire mechanics have never seen one. Also most shops will not mount a tire that is over 10 years old. An impact wrench aids in lug nut work (remember the ones on the driver's side have LEFT HAND threads). If a shop air com pressor is not available electric ones are available, some of which plug into the slave receptacle on the truck. The truck can also furnish air to inflate the tires. For really stubborn cases a breaker bar with 1.5" and 13/16s square will start them especially of the lug nuts have not been off in 20 years and are fouled with paint or rust. A tire inflation hose with 10' or so o line on the downstream side of the valve and a clip on chuck is recommended. When I was in the service with a 20 year old M818 under me, the motor sergeant let me carry an extra tube and I had a hammer and some lock ring tools and I would pull the nail out of the tire, install the tube, inflate it and move on. The tire in post 9162 appears to be cupped from the solid front axles causing the lugs on the NDT tire to wear on 1 side. This can be equalized by rotating the front tires to the opposite side or moving them to the rear.
Click to expand...
Before I bought my Deuce in 2016, I picked up a torque multiplier wrench set. It makes removing tight lugs as easy as buttering my toast! I keep it in the cab under the passenger seat. I also have an electric impact wrench under there to put the nuts back on. Then I have a torque wrench in my garage to get them tightened accurately.

torque multipler wrench.jpg
 
Wolfgang the Gray

Wolfgang the Gray

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tobyS said:
I ran out of rod welding the tube so the lights are just setting there.
RockAuto is usually good with descriptions but they say the clear backup has a 1056 bulb and socket but what came was a 1076 bulb and socket. I bought LED for the 1056.
Im going to get another red stop unit and use the housing with the white, thus having 1157 on all of them. The LED is colored, red, amber and white. I may use two reds.
I plan on a couple strobe controls, so there could be a lot of combinations.
Each light will have it's own SO cord going to a control box. I picked up some so cord that is foundry duty but with a rather small wire, 16-18 ga, I think. My trailer wiring will go back from that control box too, not tap off the lights.. Wiring for the lights is in that housing/tube.
Click to expand...
Get a green lens for your backup light & drive with two traffic lights on your tail. LOL!
 
tobyS

tobyS

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Yep....looks like two traffic lights. If I'm seen on the roads (being one of the slowest vehicles), it will be worth it to avoid being rear ended. I have not seen a green lens yet.

Every light there (and new ones on the front) will have a 3 wire SO cord going to it from the (added) control box, so it can be individually controlled, flashed, strobed, etc. The LED replacement bulb has really opened up a lot of options for lighting. They tell me my dimmer controls can't be used with the flasher modules....we'll see.

Maybe I should start an LED thread (with flashers, strobes, dimmers, etc) to see what people are doing beyond the standard OEM lights.
 
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