What did you do to your deuce this week?

Just made the spring pack of the m105 spring for the rear of the M35A3 4x4, less stiff. I took the spring pack apart and removed four leafs, leaving 7. I have air bags coming that will mount on top of the spring directly above the axle CL and shocks will go inside the frame to the axle (not sure on 2 or 4). Had to get 3/8" x 4" socket heads to replace the bolts in the pack. Taking the spring pack apart is not near as hard as I expected, with a good C-clamp. I kept all the leafs with the alignment clamps riveted on.

Only one more part to make for the perch from 1/2" plate and then will order the 3/4" U-bolts. The perch has about a 3 degree taper to bring the pinion angle to about 2 degrees. Perch will be about 4" high. I estimate I removed about 25% of the spring and hope empty I will have enough movement for the shocks to work. Will post some pictures when all parts of these springs and axle perch are finished.

I took my old rusted nasty parking brake shoes and cleaned them up and re painted them for rust protection. Just waiting to put the new liners on them and put it back together.

Looked at it longingly as I drove past going to work, hoping for a day I can get the spin on filters on, and bleed the brakes so I can get it inspected and driving....

I washed the muck off of it from sitting under trees. Then I drove it to town put some fuel in it and drove it back home (30 minutes round trip).

rustystud said:

I often wondered if installing a bronze bushing in there would help the axle shaft splines ? Since they will be spinning against the housing from now on. Just a thought.

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Yep would seem be the best way but in the thread it talks about it. .https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-axle-flanges&highlight=brass+bushing+for+hub

My son rebuilt the Airpack! Now just waiting for summer shows!

Introduced the two trucks to each other... And then promptly removed the fuel tank from the 109. I'm going to go dual tanks on the 35.

Replaced the water pump, both drive belts. Drivers door would not open from the outside. I figured the tang was bent just like everyone else said but the end of the handle square rod was rounded off. Built it up with weld then ground it square again. Put the latch assembly back in. Put the window back in. Went for a drive. Then remembered that the plates were on the other one. I'm going out to change them now.

Painted the front bumper yellow, so that when it heads home, even Darryl Freaking Issacs, "The Hammer", (TV ambulance chaser) can't win the case if some jack-n-apes decides to pull out in front of me, and then says, "I didn't SEE the truck!" Dark colored truck, YELLOW bumper, at head level of most cars out there..... Black unit markings will be applied at a later time.

drove it home from the trucking company that picked it up. the guy I bought it from threw in all kinds of stuff including the compressor belt replacement tools and belt, filters, O-rings, 4 complete manuals, LED spot lights, LED tail lights, cold weather cover for the front.

davidb56 said:

drove it home from the trucking company that picked it up. the guy I bought it from threw in all kinds of stuff including the compressor belt replacement tools and belt, filters, O-rings, 4 complete manuals, LED spot lights, LED tail lights, cold weather cover for the front. View attachment 758174

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Nice deal ! Truck looks great !

Floridianson said:

Yep would seem be the best way but in the thread it talks about it. .https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-axle-flanges&highlight=brass+bushing+for+hub

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Well it read the whole thread and still believe like so many others do that is needs a bushing there. There is only one bushing in that housing to hold that shaft, so the end of the shaft will droop down and rub on that spinning wheel hub. You could machine out enough material to prevent this but then the housing might split in two from all the material removed !
Also never put two hardened surfaces together !!!! Not unless there are ball bearings separating them. You always put a softer material against a harder one. That way you can always replace the softer one (bushing) when it wears out, and not have to replace both the shaft and the hardened bushing.
Good read though. Thanks "Floridianson" for sharing.

davidb56 said:

drove it home from the trucking company that picked it up. the guy I bought it from threw in all kinds of stuff including the compressor belt replacement tools and belt, filters, O-rings, 4 complete manuals, LED spot lights, LED tail lights, cold weather cover for the front. View attachment 758174

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That is a perfect looking deuce! Well done and great find!!!

Very nice truck. Great pic...what is all that white stuff? 75 degrees here.

fpchief said:

Very nice truck. Great pic...what is all that white stuff? 75 degrees here.

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Northern Idaho grass....it does keep the "free s*** army away.

Headlight upgrade

Last week it was the cargo bed lights. This week it was headlights. Had a car nut/Jeeper friend cleaning out his garage. He found these knock off JW speaker 8700 LED lights (multi-volt 12-28vdc) and handed them off to me. Haven't had a chance to see the beam pattern at night yet.

davidb56 said:

drove it home from the trucking company that picked it up. the guy I bought it from threw in all kinds of stuff including the compressor belt replacement tools and belt, filters, O-rings, 4 complete manuals, LED spot lights, LED tail lights, cold weather cover for the front. View attachment 758174

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She's a beaut clark!! I've got some friends out in Boise, nice country out there.

I don't like my hood hinges bleeding rust so I took off the hood and took apart the hinges and cleaned/ painted everything.

drilled exhaust manifold and tapped it at 1/8 inch NPT, installed EGT thermocouples, wired it up. The pod they sent doesn't hold the gauge properly, so they are sending another type. replaced the compressor belt and both alternator belts. removed the flame heater and plugged the manifold, installed the block heater in the water pump housing (400wt) replaced the lower radiator hose. tomorrow I'll inspect the thermostat and maybe replace it.

tested thermostat, put it back. bypassed FDC. had a heck of a time getting parts as our Napa doesn't carry much of anything. I ended up pulling the 45 out of the HH and installing a 45 air brake fitting with the sleeve built into the fitting, instead of a separate piece like the one I removed, then on the filter end I did the same but with a 90 that I got from Carquest.Two trips equals 80 miles...... put in 3 feet of line so it would be out of the way during filter changes. opened the bleeder, turned on the power for a few seconds, shut the bleeder and fired it up. EGT was around 325-360 no load. I didn't have time to test drive it yet.