How do I get a 6BT Cummins started after it has been sitting for a while?

You rae correct, I do plan to add those tools to my tol box as soon as I can get some extra cash.

I was just out there pulling those brackets off so I can get in there and get a closer look at how it all goes together.

i'm not sure. if it was a 2nd gen i'd say you are describing the fuel bowl heater (which is worthless and useless).

BUT, i don't know on a 1st gen. take some pics.

i'd've thought that some good engine diagrams were easy to find for 1st gens but that's not proving to be the case...

I dont want to be a smart ass..... Ok I really do . you could always wrap your lips around the exhaust pipe and suck start the stupid thing....but really tho I dont think it was a heater bowl you were feeling thats not typical for that era motor. if that motor sat for any period of time and had any small amount of water in the system which they all do. you very well could have an algea buildup blocking the flow. This usually happens in farm equip but has happened in DD.you could loosen and remove the fitting at rear of IP and the rmove fitting at tank inlet with the air gun blow pressure backwards and see if any buildup comes out . Then reassemble and reprime system.

Lonesome715 said:

I just went out and looked for a tag and could not find one.

I did find this photograph though.

Click to expand...

that looks like a BOSCH P7100 f.i.p.

i run a 97 6bta-same pump

sorry-i should add that my '97 6bta is built in england,i believe there all basically the same,metric , and built from the same drawings though.

no, that is not a Bosh P7100.

The pump you have is a VE bosch pump.

YOU don't take it apart, you take it off and let the pump shop fix it. They need calibration when they are assembled. Did you ever find out if you have low pressure fuel to the pump? Rotary pumps can be a iatch to get lit off if they are air bound.

I mean zero disrespect, but if you're questioning your abilities, taking apart an injection pump is not where you'd want to be. I've rebuilt three VE pumps (off of VW engines, but they're the same concept only a different head, cam, and a few other bits).

IMHO, start with the fuel first. Make sure the filters are primed. Then crack the injector lines until you verify fuel flowing. Then attach half of them. Then prime again, then the other half. It should start up if you've got fuel to that point.

If time allowed, I'd head down and give you a hand with it. Work is insane for me lately.

I have four of these trucks (civilian) and love every one of them. You need to procure a 1989 Dodge Diesel Supplement manual. It is invaluable for working on and troubleshooting first gen engines. I got mine on Ebay real reasonable.
A couple of suggestions. Don't try to remove the injection pump without this manual. And Will Wagner is right. Let a qualified person or company rebuild it or you might be sorry. Are you getting fuel and/or bubbbles at the injectors? This system is very simple and easy to work on when you learn the basic ins and outs of these early diesel trucks.

I figured I should leave it be. Right now I think it is just the bad fuel pump. As soon as I have the extra $100 I will replace it with a later model piston pump.

I do agree that a manuel will be a very good purchase for me.

you're looking at more than just money for the P-pump; the front cover, injector lines, and injectors will all need to be replaced/modified.

better off staying w/ the VE style that you have.

I doubt your issue lies within the IP, but here's a great thread on the internals.

VE rebuild with pics Look inside - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum