How do I get a 6BT Cummins started after it has been sitting for a while?

Lonesome715 · May 3, 2011

The IP I was planning to leave alone. I meant the lifp pump on the mottom driver side of the engine is what I want to up grade.

Thanks for the link, that is helpfull.

Lonesome715 · May 15, 2011

I finally got a new lift pump on but still no luck. Fuel is flowing and getting to the IP. However, when I crack open the injector line it is barely dipping out. I ran a jumper from the solenoid on the IP to the battery and I heard it click. But the truck still will not start. I can see the new fuel dripping out of the injector lines when I open them. I tracked wires coming from the IP and they are cut and psiced into god know what. So instead of just jumping it from the battery can I just run a continuos 12V from the ignition?

mightymanx · May 15, 2011

Have you checked your injectors? NOT fuel going in to them but fuel coming out of them.

You say you crack the injector lines and get fuel but it does not run a 6BT uses realy fine injector nozzles that can get crapped up fairly easly.

mightymanx · May 15, 2011

One more was the truck 12v or 24v they made a 24volt fuel solenoid for military cummins engines.

If you are putting 12 volts to a 24 volt solenoid you may only be cracking it open and it is not opening fully.

Lonesome715 · May 15, 2011

I tried to get a couple of the injectors out but they are stuck in there real good. Some one told me I need a special tool to remove them. Si that true? The truck is a nothing special 12v production truck. The only real difference is the stripped down intieror and the real short whel base.

Also, in the solenoid there are two male prongs. One faces the fire wall and one face the driver side fender. If I groun the test light to both prongs seperately the put the test light on the POS battery terminal it lights up. Plus, it clicks if I run a jumper ti either one. When I pulled the wireing off so I can make room to get in there for the fuel pump install only one prong had a wire on it. Which prong should I be using or doe it make a difference?

Lonesome715 · May 15, 2011

There is a special tool: :jumpin:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrcm4iWuNng[/media]

Very cool, I am going to make one. [thumbzup]

mudguppy · May 16, 2011

i just used a lug nut threaded onto the end and a pry bar. i think the flat 'wonder bar' worked the best. some popped out without much fuss while a couple were pretty stubborn.

Lonesome715 · May 16, 2011

I figured I would soak them in oil then after a couple of days of that yank them out. I hope pulling and claening them will get this job done.

By the way, is there anything I should know before I pull them out?

quickfarms · May 16, 2011

I had a similar situation recentally and we ended up rebuilding the injector pump and injectors.

After that it started right up.

Lonesome715 · May 16, 2011

I do not know enough to tackle that IP. I am hoping this will end with the injectors.

Floridianson · May 16, 2011

Lonesome715 said:
Which prong should I be using or doe it make a difference?

It would seem you should use the one it came off of.
A little confused on you explantion but when I hook at aligator clip to a pos battery termanal or any pos. known source then touch the tip of the test light to the lug I am testing if It lights then it would seem to be a ground. If your light does not light then I assume it is a pos or need pos. to work.
You saying both show they need a pos to work or eather one will make it work with pos.?

Lonesome715 · May 16, 2011

The test light worked on both and they are side by side just facing different direction. The wire running to it even with all the splices in it is hot when the ignotion is on. And, it clicks on which ever prong I use. It "looks" like they are ine piece.

By the way, forgive the spleeing erros. Some times I do nto have enough time to proof reead my responses.

Floridianson · May 16, 2011

If both are good to use to shut down maybe it uses one for the regular ign. switch and the outher could not be used but used for an emergency shut down switch in different aplacations????????????

Lonesome715 · May 16, 2011

That does make sense.

Floridianson · May 16, 2011

Yes and no seems like it would need power to run and no power would shut it down?? so that would shoot down my sheet.

Lonesome715 · May 17, 2011

I am hoping pulling and cleaning the injectors will finally get this thing running. When I open the lines fule in flowing to them. I just do not know how much should be going.

Floridianson · May 17, 2011

Hope you get it going but just think it will be just like Christmas.
Was thinking since I have never worked on your set up it's to me kinda all mechanical stuff all good not smart though.
I would believe If I built it the lugs on the solonoid would need voltage to ingage. So as you said the lugs do not connect so maybe I said it wrong before. You could use the extra lug as a remote start then just find power somewhere fast and your done.
Once again sorry to PW and let us know when you get it running :grd:

before you tell the wife!!!!!

nk14zp · May 17, 2011

Is the mechanical shut off lever in the run position?

Floridianson · May 17, 2011

nk14zp said:
Is the mechanical shut off lever in the run position?

Good call if it has one.

Lonesome715 · May 17, 2011

No idea... Where would this lever be?

How do I get a 6BT Cummins started after it has been sitting for a while?

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