Some more questions from a rookie

Hello Im new here, and for some time have I´ve been looking for a pick up truck that would work for my lifestyle. I live in Iceland and we sometimes get a lot of snow in the winters, and if u want u can always drive up to some of our glaciers. So there is enough snow!!

Me and my brother are both in extreme sports such as snowboarding, mountainbiking and dirtbikes, so its naturally a good thing to have a bed on your car to strap those toys on.

Pass these few years that i´ve been loking for the ideal pick up ive come across Ford f-250 6,9 diesel, GMC sierra 5,7l. and some more, and i´ve mainly been looking at the design of the truck, and to date I think the m880 is the coolest

I would maybe go on roadtrips around our island at winter and summertime so im wondering if this truck is good for that with the fulltime 4x4, On this web i´ve seen numbers around 8 to 10 mpg (29.402 - 19.601 liter per 100 km!!??) Well I would not want to spend more gas than 23 liters p 100 km (10,2 mpg) driving in the city! Please give me some fuel consumption numbers in and out of city
http://www.cactus2000.de/uk/unit/massful.shtml

So do u guys think it would work good in snow and for long roadtrips?

Another thing is back in my mind, that is if I would like to go on trips on glaciers, that means bigger tires like 38”. Putting a 38” tires under a m880 (w200) is that a big deal? what needs to be done? a body lift and maybe cutting the fenders?. How would the 318 handle these tires I would ofcourse change the gear ratio. What kind of a operation are we talking about here?

We don’t have many dodge m880 or w200 trucks here in Iceland but the army is leaving Iceland for good and heading back to the usa so I am hoping that they leave some trucks behind. Already one has been sold ´89 powerwagon. So there is a chance, but if that fails i´ll maybe just buy some online, on ebay or places like that. But that is hard, u cant drive the truck, photos are sometimes bad and it costs to ship it. Just overall much harder and u don’t really know what u have been buying until u take a good look for your self and test drive it. What advices can you guys give me if I don’t find a dodge here in Iceland, should I locate a truck and go out myself and check it out or what? I read here somwhere that you should keep a close eye for the front wheel bearings, can you show me some photos of a front wheel bearings in good and bad shape?

If I would want to swap a 350 small block chevy into a dodge m880 or a w200 would you guys consider that a good option if I want more power?
Because ive heard good things about the small block and I could get my hands on that kind of engine here in iceland and plenty of parts. (And that’s good because its hard to get pretty much everything in iceland unless if its fish or a beautiful woman ) Do you all know sombody who has done that? But I would not do that soon after I would buy the truck.

Have you guys been tuning this 318 engine? how much torque and hp are we talking about? Arent these about 150 hp orginal?

I think that’s about it for now.

Thanks

Thomas

Welcome Thomas! The M880 family of military Dodges and their FTFWD system sure are fine things to have and enjoy. Down here we don't have snow or ice but thousands of Km of bad, loose gravel backcountry roads. My '73 M886 ex-ambulance truck, now a small shop van and being (top) heavy, does better on that kind of terrain than my '90 K1500 Chevy with IFS.
The 318 is a good but thirsty engine, it was swapped out (mainly because of gas prices) for a GM 6.2 diesel with TH400, keeping the original NP203 tc. I'm running on 285/75R16 BFG MT on 8" wheels, stock 4.10 diff. ratio and I think that is about the biggest tire size you can easily put on without a lot of re-engineering of suspension and driveline. besides a 1 1/2" body lift. I also strongly recommend adding PS.
With that combination I get 6-8 Km/l at 100-120 Km/h Hwy (14-19 mpg at 60-75 mph), and I can burn WVO or SVO, too!

Hope this helped some.

Gerhard

The M880 will work just fine for what you want to do with it, Don't let the talk about the wheel bearings scare you none, as long as you keep them greased they wil not be a problem.

The 318 engin is the same as the cilvian ones ( without emissions) The FTFWD is great and you will love it..

However..... If you need a truck that gets over 10 mpg. ( some city but mostly highway) then you had better look at geting something else or look into making some changes to the truck. If you want a chevy motor then I suggest getting a Chevy truck. If the US Military is leaving greenland then there should be some Chevy trucks laying around.

Good Luck

I would worry about the front wheel bearings if you are going to put 38s under it. Actually, I would worry about the front Dana 44 holding up with 38s and any off road abuse. I'd want a Dana 60 front axle for anything over a 35" tire with any abuse in it's future. The 318 can be built to put out whatever power levels you want. It all depends on how much you want to spend. I wouldn't swap a GM engine into a Dodge for any reason, lol. To run 38s you are going to need something like 4" of suspension lift and 3" of body lift. This is what I had on my '88 model W150 with 39s on it. I think 33's are about as big as you can go without lift or major trimming.

Elwenil said:

Actually, I would worry about the front Dana 44 holding up with 38s and any off road abuse. I'd want a Dana 60 front axle for anything over a 35" tire with any abuse in it's future.

Click to expand...

I agree

A 360 is almost a bolt in swap, the torque converter needs to be externally balenced or B&M has a weighted flex plate.The right side engine mount where it bolts to the engine is different but you may be able to redrill the hole(s).

Ok, Thanks for all the answers guys. Im still trying to figure out if the 318 is the right engine, I think it would be alright. But just in case what can you all tell me about the 360 and 440cid engines that i´ve been seeing under the hood ? m108 said that 360 is almost a bolt in swap, But what can you tell me about that engine? Is the 440 almost
a bolt in or what? Just tell me everything u know!.

And another thing, if some of u are rock climbing or things like that, dont you miss haveing a locking diffs? Like Torsen? Or are you just happy with the locking that the np-203 gives?

the np203 only locks the diff in the transfer case. has nothing to do with the diffs in the axles.

To put in a 383, 400 or 440 you will have to change the trans. case because of the bolt pattern. Depending on year some engines were internally and some were externally balenced and you will need the corrosponding torque converter. The motor mounts are different but all of the frames I have seen have both sets of mount slots. The radiator will be different.The starter is the same on the ones I have had.Power steering pump and alternator brackets and engine wiring is different.Something I forgot in the earlier post is the 318 and 360 oil pans are different and they are different for cars and trucks. On big blocks any pans will fit any size engine and there are different between cars and trucks toil pick up tubes have to match the pan.Throttle pressure linkage between the carb and trans must match the combination and be adjusted properly or trans dammage will result.

I'm on the down hill side of a 440 swap into my M880 right now, and one other thing I've had to do in addition to what was listed above, was find the transmission kickdown linkage for the 440 in a truck. The motor I used originally came out of a station wagon, and the kick down linkage was completely different. One note here: If you can find engine brackets with out the A/C compressor, you can reuse a small block radiator since the compressor won't be in the way of the upper hose. I'm going to see if I can reuse it anyway, and try to get a flewible hose to work by routing around the compressor. I have plans to convert it into an air compressor...

Also, I believe if you are going to use stock exhaust manifolds with a big block (B/RB; 383/440) you have to use truck style, center outlet exhaust manifolds, as rear dump passenger car models will hit the frame.

DO NOT modify the frmae for clearance as some will recommend, get headers or the right manifolds.

rizzo said:

the np203 only locks the diff in the transfer case. has nothing to do with the diffs in the axles.

Click to expand...

Yes i know, Im asking if u think that is alright if you are rock climbing or in snow or whatever. How helpful is the locking in the transfer case? Do you think it serves its job well? Those of you who go off rode, what do you think?

Tommi,

I personally think the full time 4WD is great for mixed conditions such as where there is frequent pressence of snow and ice on the road. There's no fretting over whether or not you ought to put it in 4WD (as is the case with part time 4wd) because you are ALWAYS in 4wd. and you can quickly lock the TC diff on the fly if it get too dicey to run with it open.

Clinto-- good point. I did have to get the truck manifolds for this swap as well. I will also have to modify the exhaust pipe flange connection since the style is different between the SB and BB motors. That is next.

tommi3520 said:

rizzo said:

the np203 only locks the diff in the transfer case. has nothing to do with the diffs in the axles.

Click to expand...

Yes i know, Im asking if u think that is alright if you are rock climbing or in snow or whatever. How helpful is the locking in the transfer case? Do you think it serves its job well? Those of you who go off rode, what do you think?

Click to expand...

I'd agree that the 203 might work best in your situation. Full-time FWD has the downside of increased wear on the front end, but it makes up for it in a situation where traction is required and there isn't time to get out and lock in a set of hubs.

I've seen some pretty impressive trucks in Iceland. I'm sure you are getting some local ideas on what does or doesn't work in your area.

Smitty

The locking in the 203 TC is not really any different than the locking in a part time case. They both simply make the the front & rear drive shafts turn together.
Rock crawling with a full size 3/4 ton truck???????
Snow, I have been up to the rocker panels in the snow on the forest roads with my M882. Certainly gets the attention of snowmobilers.

I have both full time and part time trucks & have had to do more repairs on the front axles of the part time trucks. This is due to the internal componants not being rotated through the lube, moisture built up and rusting.

Alright. But i wanna know more about the 318 engine. Is it true that it is 150 hp orginal? If this is a thirsty engine i would want a little more power out of it. Whats the torque orginal?

Enough with the orginal talk, I dont like the sound of swapping engines, Im new in this truck buisness so no swapping, however if i wanted get get this 318 engine around and over 200 hp what could i do? Have you guys been tuning those engines up?

TB

ps on the 203. if you get a part time kit for the 203 you have to drive with 4wd on for a little while once a week to get proper lubrication in the t-case.

Tommi,

I've never done any performance work on the 318. Seemed like better money spent to devote that attention to a larger engine, like a 360, or a big block (383, 400, or 440.) However there are guys who have built up some impressive 318's. Make an inquiry over at www.ramchargercentral.com and there's bound to be someone over there who has done it.

How heavy are these trucks in tons ? i dont understand this 3/4 ton ..? how much whole tons are we talking about? 3 tons?

The typical W200 weighs about 4500 lbs.
The 3/4 ton thing is a general clasification refering to load capacity. Which on these trucks are rated for 2500 pounds (1 1/4 ton) Which is why the military calls them 1 1/4 ton trucks.
a 1970 318 was rated at 220 hp