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First '52 XM211

hendersond

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The impact wrenching on the cab was starting to get out of control. I set them up to remove some wheels. I figured that wear them down a little. I cracked the nuts loose and let them go. It was a good lesson on jackstands, wheelchocks, and shop safety. They let the air down on the tires with a clamp on air chuck first.
 

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hendersond

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I took Gunfreak25's advice on the cowl gasket. It trimmed up very nicely with a sharp putty knife. The red paint peels right off. Later I was able to get in the corner with a DA sander to get the paint off. I couple good coats of primer and some caulk and I'll be happy. Thanks for the guidance.
 

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butch atkins

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red paint

my M211 was also a former FD vehicle ,it was rose colored like yours,it had been painted with red LAQUER paint,so i scuffed it up with lots of sandpaper,wiped it down with PREPSOL,painted it w 2 coats primer and 4 gals of 34052 USMC Forest Green enamal paint and primer,and 5 yrs later the paint and primer was flaking off. My fault ,didnt take enough of the red paint off ,so the red Laquer bled thru ,just my experience ,this time i know i have to take ALL the red paint down to the original OD paint BEFORE primer and paint,if your truck has been painted with enamal ,no problem painting over it with any enamel based primer/paint.Hope your project tuns out better than mine,just a story of SIS (Self Inflicted Stupidity).Good luck on your project,and its your toy and your money ,do what makes you happy
 

hndrsonj

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The impact wrenching on the cab was starting to get out of control. I set them up to remove some wheels. I figured that wear them down a little. I cracked the nuts loose and let them go. It was a good lesson on jackstands, wheelchocks, and shop safety. They let the air down on the tires with a clamp on air chuck first.
As long as that isn't one of the tires/wheels off the M59 we are all good. Just sayin...:beer:
 

hendersond

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Thanks for the story. I'm taking all the red paint off for that very reason. I got the cab done this morning and primed it. It was 95 and too sunny, the primer dried before it would feather. I "test" painted a little spot to see how it looks and it ain't good. That red shows up every sanding mark and imperfection. I'm forced down the wet sanding path to get a good finish. If it were camo it would be done. I'm worried about the work I'm making for myself. My goal was to take it to the Iola MV show in August.

I'm really burned out on the body prep. All the 5/16 body bolts on the cab are real stinkers. Wire brush, sand, find some rust coming out from under the washer, take the bolt out, grind, prime, paint (under the bolt), put the bolt back in, scuff, and prime again. At least the worst is done.

I found this really interesting. I took all the wheels off except 4 and chained the rear axle up so I can move it around to work on it. -I'm getting the old rubber taken off for $5 a tire.:) Any way, it is like driving a totally different truck. I'm not a bobber fan, but I see why people do it.
 

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hendersond

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hndrsonj, I picked up your tailgate tonight. I just about fell over when I saw brand new tires on your stubby little dumper. You don't mind if the rims are red when you get here do you? (At least they would match the tow bar):p

Seriously, If you want to come around for a week or so in Sept, Oct or early Nov I will take the week off and we can tow one of your trucks to my place and get'er done. That one girl who lived here for 18 years will be in a dorm, so we'll have an extra bed for you and W this fall.
 

Gunfreak25

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Love the chain thing. Classic.

Have you considered the more traditional rusty metal primer? I find it hides a lot of surface imperfections and because it contains fish oil it soaks into any corrosion and halts the process. I don't use it over severely rusted metal, which is treated with a wire brush job before priming. I prefer it over the newer epoxy based primers and best of all it's quite inexpensive to do an entire deuce with the stuff. It will cover up the brightest color you can think of in a single coat and adheres like nobody's business. I find with an epoxy primer I have to do a lot more surface prep to get a decent final finish.
 
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Stan Leschert

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We had our paint custom mixed. If you need, I can try to get the code for you. You have a really fun truck, which was greatly ahead of it's time. Download all of the TM's and keep posting pics. I don't know an awfull lot, but I'll try to respond to your questions. If you need reference pictures of anything, a few of us have decent versions of that beast, so please don't hesitate to ask.
 

hendersond

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The soda blaster called today. My front fenders are done. The only place I had rust on the truck was the bottom of the fenders by the running board and the front of the fenders by the big rivits. I have another set I will use for patch material after work tonight. It will be nice to have clean metal to work with.

Any body know a source for a not cracked exhaust manifold?
 

Gunfreak25

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Call "Brian Asbury" in Canada, google the name and it will come up. Is there any reason why you can't weld the old one? The nay sayers will tell you that cast iron can't be welded. I say bologna, I've welded cast iron before with my cheapo mig welder and it always works just fine. Hard heck, cast iron welds.

It's good to see you are putting so much effort into your GMC. Lets me know I am not alone! May I ask what your blaster charged for each fender? Boy that would save me a lot of sanding if the price is right.
 

hendersond

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2 fenders, gas can bracket, running boards, toolbox and an arm full of misc small pieces $50.00, and they are clean! I'll post pics tonight. Did find some extra holes along the lip of one fender. Maybe some filler will take care of them.

Guy is also doing 11 rims for $15.00 each including primer. :razz:

As far as the manifold goes, it has been fixed Multiple times by what looks like chickens. Weld, braze, really high heat from a stick welder, and finally what appears to be JB weld. Iprefer to replace at this point. Thanks for the lead!
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Call "Brian Asbury" in Canada, google the name and it will come up. Is there any reason why you can't weld the old one? The nay sayers will tell you that cast iron can't be welded. I say bologna, I've welded cast iron before with my cheapo mig welder and it always works just fine. Hard heck, cast iron welds.

It's good to see you are putting so much effort into your GMC. Lets me know I am not alone! May I ask what your blaster charged for each fender? Boy that would save me a lot of sanding if the price is right.
In my "prior life" I spent 13 years in the employ of a Gray Iron Foundry. Our primary products were known as "Municipal Castings" - All the iron that you run over in the street, including: Manhole Rings and Covers, Valve Meter Boxes and their Lids or covers, Drainage Scuppers & Grates of all sizes.

In the course of production, welding the cast iron was commonplace for cosmetic defect correction and on some products, for assembly of components - both tacking and STRUCTURAL WELDS.

Unfortunately, I was not one of those skilled in this talent, nor do I retain any of the manuals and engineering specs to "get-r-done". My statement is simply this--- IT IS POSSIBLE TO WELD CAST IRON USING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT, FEED METAL, AND SETTINGS.
 

Gunfreak25

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Nothing wrong with Bondo on a Military Vehicle, if done well. I'll be using some on my windshield near a rust hole, my hood which has welding damage and my floor board.
 
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