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M1009 radiator replacement 432098; engine oil cooler lines don't fit

Matt5

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After spending way too much time looking at AF... you can think of that AF as a soap... it will clean everything... the 2 year stuff, deposits things... swapping to the 2 year stuff could give you a protective layer... or maybe cleaning all the old gunk from the last 30+ years is killing as mentioned the PH of the AF... for whatever reason using ELC coolant with SCA was not recommend for our trucks... idk why?

Getting test strips not a bad idea... I mean junk or not... it should be lasting... and not having holes ate though it... GL.
 

cucvrus

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DSCF5718.jpgI have had great success with the Aluminum core Plastic tank radiators in my trucks. I had several of the GM replacement Harrison radiators. They are great and easy to install. Huge improvement and weight saver. The Autozone replacement is a good deal if you like Lifetime warranties. I used many and had a few leak. nothing is infallible. Stay cool. I did see snow flying today for about an hour. Nothing that stuck.
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
After spending way too much time looking at AF... you can think of that AF as a soap... it will clean everything... the 2 year stuff, deposits things... swapping to the 2 year stuff could give you a protective layer... or maybe cleaning all the old gunk from the last 30+ years is killing as mentioned the PH of the AF... for whatever reason using ELC coolant with SCA was not recommend for our trucks... idk why?

Getting test strips not a bad idea... I mean junk or not... it should be lasting... and not having holes ate though it... GL.
AH ok, ELC "Extended Life Coolant" and SCA "Supplemental Coolant Additives" :doh:
I know we aren't supposed to use dexcool or other oddball AF's. But i thought some guys on here told me some years ago that this prestone was fine... still don't know what that would have to do with the radiator, as I know there are other vehicles with copper/brass rads that run this prestone.

As far as gunk built up in the block and etc, like I said before we flushed the entire cooling system after he first got the truck. Didn't really need it, but we had already bought the flush so we did it anyway. Even when I took the heads off about 2 or 3 years ago and such, all the coolant passages looked clean, and the coolant itself has always been clean.

I think I heard something once that voltage could "build up" in the coolant, causing an electrolysis effect or something. But would that make the solder joints all fail?

IDK...
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
View attachment 758313I have had great success with the Aluminum core Plastic tank radiators in my trucks. I had several of the GM replacement Harrison radiators. They are great and easy to install. Huge improvement and weight saver. The Autozone replacement is a good deal if you like Lifetime warranties. I used many and had a few leak. nothing is infallible. Stay cool. I did see snow flying today for about an hour. Nothing that stuck.
Hello Cucvrus! Thanks for your reply!
Yeah, I read where you said you had used the aluminum/plastic rads without much issue. I looked at several on several different parts sites (o'reilly, rockauto, etc) and all of them seemed to be pretty much the same manufacture irregardless of brand. And most all the sites had mediocre reviews it seemed. Then read where guys were using All Aluminum Rads, and that sounded like they would have less chance of leaks since they're welded, and not soldered like copper/brass, nor... "press fit" or "injection molded"? like plastic/aluminum rads.
Idk, have to just find the best one I can I guess and try it. Oreillys wants almost $350 for a plastic/aluminum one here, which is just short of what we paid for this brass/copper one too. I saw some of the All Aluminum Rads *were* going for around that price back sometime ago apparently. But now just can't seem to find one that is a direct replacement, at least not with the oil cooler built in.
 
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cucvrus

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I never read reviews. IMHO I never went on a site that sells products and posted a review. Most are whiny crybabies that failed to follow simple instructions on the installation. #1 most important rule when installing a radiator in a CUCV or any radiator is. Will the radiator be securely supported. I mean down to making sure the radiator core support is still bolted fast to the frame and the mounts still have secure attachment to the frame. Also do not use the OEM sponge rubber oil soaked radiator support/mounts. Do a minor investment and get
Prothane Radiator Support Bushings. Or not. Just saying. Reviews are opinions and everyone has one. Like ear holes all have 2. And that opinion will change depending on the company they are in at the time the question is asked. Have a Great Day. Good Luck. Make radiator tight and secure and it will last many years.
 

Jake59

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Kaggevinne, Flanders, belgium
Hi all,

I realise this tread has been on for quite some years and now that I have found my radiator to leak as well on the soldering seam between the tanks and the core header, I am naturally looking at either refurbishing or a new radiator.

The post I would like to hear more about is from Ovelordofmars who referred to the aluminium radiators made/sold by http://www.genesisautoparts.com/
Strangely enough this link does not open anything whatsoever. or maybe it's me who cannot access their site because my IP is not within the USA?

What is their radiator part number for our M1009?
Or how can I get onto their catalog?

Thanks for any/all advice and help.
Cheers,
Jake
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I can not reach that page either. Do you have a radiator shop in your area? If so they could fix your existing radiator by replacement or re core. I hope that helps. I prefer plastic / aluminum radiators. Good Luck. Not sure where in Belgium you are but sure they can make and sell quality radiators.
 

Jake59

Active member
169
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28
Location
Kaggevinne, Flanders, belgium
Thanks CucvRus!
Not sure yet what I am going to do... but yes there is a radiator repair shop in the area; just holding that off a bit until I check the radiator out all over and decide which way to go...
Thanks,
Jake
 

Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Hi all,
I realise this tread has been on for quite some years and now that I have found my radiator to leak as well on the soldering seam between the tanks and the core header, I am naturally looking at either refurbishing or a new radiator.

The post I would like to hear more about is from Ovelordofmars who referred to the aluminium radiators made/sold by http://www.genesisautoparts.com/
Strangely enough this link does not open anything whatsoever. or maybe it's me who cannot access their site because my IP is not within the USA?
What is their radiator part number for our M1009?
Or how can I get onto their catalog?
Thanks for any/all advice and help.
Cheers,
Jake

Hi Jake,
From what I could find back when I replaced my radiator, Genesis auto parts is no more, or they sold out, etc.

However, after replacing the stock radiator with another stock radiator at the cost of $400+, and then having more problems with it, had it repaired... repaired again... then it was so bad it would have cost $$$ to have it fixed (as they would have had to desolder both tanks and re-core it), and even at that none of the rad shops even wanted to mess with it. Also found out from a rad shop who had been in business for 40+ years, that these radiators had a major design flaw from the start which caused them to "flex" to much which is why they kept breaking and leaking (thats why they added the "metal straps" to each side, but it didn't fix it).... And also that the cores were Very Thin/small, which is why these were a so called "4 core" radiator in the first place, but they don't do any more cooling than a well built 2 core.

I was tired of the stock rads to say the least, let alone the truck being down every time it happened, let alone having to do all the work and etc over and over to pull, repair, reinstall etc etc etc. As I had pulled the radiator at least 5 or 6 times in just a few years.

So I decided that I was going to move to a full aluminum Rad, as I had also had problems with the plastic/aluminum aftermarket "box store" radiators in other vehicles. There are some companies that can make a custom full aluminum radiator with the trans cooler and oil cooler built in, but they were Big Bucks. Another option was to get a rad for the antifreeze, then add on external coolers for the oil and transmission fluid...

However, what I ended up doing was getting a "chinese" ebay full aluminum radiator, which also has the transmission cooler and oil cooler built in. From what I understand, these are the same units that GenesisParts was selling.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-RADI...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

After the shipping company damaged the first one, had to get an exchange. But when the second one arrived, Radiator looked good, nice welds, good solid construction. Just check it over good when you get it, I even pressure tested mine right off the bat. As if you have any issues, with it being ebay, the first 30 days is the time to find them and return it for an exchange.

HOWEVER, it was not without a few problems that i had to solve. My radiator did Not come with the adapter set that it should have, it was apparently missing. The main thing being that the ports for the oil cooler and trans cooler were not the correct thread pitch in the radiator itself. So I had to figure out what size/thread the radiator ports were, then what the truck lines were. I bought two adapters linked below, and I think I bought some adapters for the.... coolant level switch? can't remember for sure... from the local parts store as well in order to make it work. Can't remember exactly what those adapters (size etc) were that I bought from auto parts store. But here are the two that I also bought off ebay. The M16X1.5 Male to 1/2" NPT Female is very hard to find anywhere. Ebay was one of the very few places that I did find it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-to-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Straight-1...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


YES it took some problem solving. YES it took some searching for the correct adapters and etc. Maybe you can get the adapter set that mine should have came with and not have these issues, but you'd have to contact the seller and etc first.

BUT in the end, I am VERY GLAD that I went this route. After getting all the right adapters and etc, and installing the radiator, I have not had Any Issues at all. Truck stays nice and cool, Everything has worked great, and I do not expect to have to pull the radiator again any time soon. **IF** it did ever develop a leak, the nice thing is if you have a tig welder (or other aluminum welder) you can fix it, or a welding shop could fix it.

This route may not be for you, but its what I ended up doing.
In any case, Hope you find a solution that fits you that you're happy with [thumbzup] [thumbzup]

Peace
 
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Commander5993

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
glad it was of help Jake :mrgreen:
Like I said, such an option may require some problem solving and etc, but its also a Whole Lot Less expensive than the custom built all aluminum radiator from one of the "hot rod" and "racing" companies, like griffinrad or mishimoto. I wouldn't have minded buying a rad from either one of those companies, but they are Big $$$$$.

Hope you get it all sorted and fixed.
Have a good one
Warren
 
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jimm1009

Well-known member
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Location
Louisville, KY
glad it was of help Jake :mrgreen:
Like I said, such an option may require some problem solving and etc, but its also a Whole Lot Less expensive than the custom built all aluminum radiator from one of the "hot rod" and "racing" companies, like griffinrad or mishimoto. I wouldn't have minded buying a rad from either one of those companies, but they are Big $$$$$.

Hope you get it all sorted and fixed.
Have a good one
Warren
I am piggy backing on a somewhat related thread.
Does anyone have Gates number for the upper and lower hoses for an M1009 or are they the same as a Vin Code C 6.2? If so I can share the Gates numbers when they come in to O'riellys tomorrow.
 
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