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Check valve for oil filters?

Stretch44875

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Is there a way to install a check valve on the oil filters to prevent them from draining? I hate that 5-10 seconds on a cold start when the oil pressure is zero. I saw Devilman96 said something about adapting a different set of filters. I would rather modify the original filters. Is the oil filters filling the reason for the long wait?

Just seeing if anyone else had already put some thought into this, and it so, what would work.

Dennis
 
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houdel

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Yes, this is a major bother to me also. My Deuce takes about 15 seconds to build oil pressure on a cold start. There were a couple of threads in the past trying to figure out how to adapt a spin on filter with anti drain back to the Deuce filter housing, but all seemed to come to a dead end due to lack of a suitable adapter. Apparently, some Oliver tractors had LD/LDT engines with spin on filters, but have not been able to find any info on them. Don't know if the check valve would work, you'd need to valve both the supply and pressure sides to keep the cannisters full and the filter housing doesn't look too easy to work with. see the other threads at

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6700
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6656
 

rmgill

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What about an electric oil pump that's a bypass that pushes oil into the galleries and gets Oil Pressure up for a wet start? Flip a switch, watch the oil pressure come up, flip the switch off, then start the engine.
 

DDoyle

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No dry movement of parts is good, but keep in mind that the op manual says to pull out the engine stop, turn the engine over with the starter for a period of time, then push in the stop to start the engine. While the primary objective is to check for hydrostatic lock, getting the oil circulating at the relatively low RPM of the starter vs even the lowest idle has to be be a step in the right direction with respect to engine life.

Best wishes,
David Doyle
 

houdel

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Ryan - I've been considering that idea. Saturn has a 24V fuel pump rated at 5-7 GPM (pressure not stated) for about $50. All I'd need is a way to draw oil out of the sump (have a couple of thoughts on that also) and then pump the oil into the pipe drain plug on the oil filter base (which, BTW, I have NOT been able to locate on my Deuce - the pipe plug, that is). Would also need a check valve to prevent backflow through the electric pump once the engine has started.

Dave - I DO do a hydro lock check every time I start the Deuce, but it still takes about 15 seconds after the engine starts for oil pressure to show on my gauge. I doubt a few seconds of hydro check moves enough oil to be of any benefit.
 

jwaller

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drag cars have what your looking for and using the turbo feed line would be an easy way to do it. they are called oil accumulators.

you open the lever to supply oil to the eng tat has been built up by the oil pump in the eng on the previous startup. then once the eng is up and running and rebuilds the pressure you close it.

The problem is that the oil filters alone are so large the accum's that I know wont fill them before they run out of oil. The largest I see is a 3qt capasity and you could plumb it into the drain in the oil filter housing.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...atalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=14889
 

73m819

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a lot of over the road trucks and heavy equipment have the system that ryan was talking about,its called a preoiler, cat puts a preoiler system on some of there big iron as oem equipment, this works where the key is in start prosition ,the preoiler turns on, the engine wont turn over till oil pressure is built, the engine turns over and starts, at the same time the preoiller shuts down,
 

OPCOM

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Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

rmgill said:
What about an electric oil pump that's a bypass that pushes oil into the galleries and gets Oil Pressure up for a wet start? Flip a switch, watch the oil pressure come up, flip the switch off, then start the engine.
Great suggestion! Hot rodders have been doing that for years to protect their $$$ engines from dry starts. It's a great idea. How to get the oil? maybe through the drain sump plug, then through a filter to a gear pump and to the engine?
 

Recovry4x4

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

As DD suggests, I do a couple of 4 or 5 second cranks before I turn the fuel on. Cuts the no OP time from 13 seconds to 8 seconds. Dman has the adapters ready for remote spin ons for his truck. He's waiting until its done to do the tech article on it. I had an idea on filter placement that we discussed. If he uses that location I'll let you know but it will solve the dry start, keep the volume and be easy to work on.
 

houdel

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

Recovery4x4 - your "couple of 4 or 5 second cranks before I turn the fuel on" are still turning the engine over dry, so I don't see much improvement there.

Jim - The oil accumulator COULD work, but it would take 4-5 quarts of oil to fill both filters and the oil galleries. On a Deuce the accumulator would have to feed into the oil filters themselves. The turbo feed line wouldn't work, it is downstream of the filters so the oil cannisters will still be empty when you go to start, most of the oil would simply run through the turbo, out the drain line and back into the pan.

Luapmonn - The slick start looks good, would be nice if it had a manual feature so you could run it a few seconds after engine shut down to keep the turbo lubed until it has spun down.

TXSG 19 - I've thought of tapping a line into the rear drain plug. I've also noticed a second boss on the base of the engine block a few inches foreward of the oil dipstick tube. Could drill and tap that extra boss and run a suction tube down onto the oil sump.

Biggest problem overall is finding a 24V pump with adequate volume AND pressure to get at least a few PSI showing on the OP guage before starting!
 

73m819

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

cat uses a small starter moter and a small gear, postive desplacement pump, it take about 10 seconds to start the moter, and a pressure switch in serise with the starter selonoide, its a very simple system, im sure somobody could come up with something real easy
 

Recovry4x4

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

Well Lee, not totally dry. There should be oil remaining on th bearings from the previous start and it's my humble opinion that less wear occurs at the starter cranking RPM of maybe 100 vs the engine idling away at 800 waiting to build up oil pressure. Should also be less pressure on the bearings in cranking with a no fire condition since there is no power stroke. I do see the improvement.
 

devilman96

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

Ok here is my $5 soap box speech on what I have learned while researching my oil filter change out... and what finally drove the mod to be a necessity rather than a luxury for oil changes. Sorry its so long but its a lot of information...

Dry start is a bad thing... no argument there and yes there about 50 different ways to fix the problem... Pre lube units using a solenoid like shown in the EBay auction will work on most vehicles but on a Deuce it would need to be about 2 gallons to charge the system with stock filters... They are not at all hard to build yourself and work off of the engines own oil pressure from the last run. Where it would work with enough volume Its just a guess but I don't think you could get full pressurization due to the engines filter design but it would give it a really good start... The Cat type systems would be a cool deal but I think is more costly than most of us could afford, someone could proably dig up the parts to make it work on their truck but as a group I don't think we would all be able to find the spare parts and pieces. The fuel pump idea wouldn't work... Not enough volume nor pressure to put a dent in the oil systems capacity. In every thing said on the subject now and in the past we are overlooking something that is far more important...

As I was saying, dry start was the biggest thing that sent me looking for an answer but it was not what prompted me to make the change... If I was going to modify my oil system I wanted to get some facts for people whom know more than I do... In this case Herc, Wix, Baldwin and some others. In researching ideas I found out that the LD was never intended to have canister filters... It was a military specification and were designed into the engine against the manufactures recommendations. This was common place in military thinking at the time and was also spec'ed to several other manufactures on various engines used in military application such as Cummings and Onan to name a few. The opposition against the filters was simple and also confirmed by Wix and Baldwin in the fact that it was far outdated and inferior filter technology. Where as a spin on of good quality will give you about 10 micron protection the canister type design will hold more around the 20 micron rage (at best) and fall from there. (thats horrible to say the least)

To back the claim I was given I was told to look at oil sampling on the LD's particularly the soot and metal levels which will always be considered high on a LD by testing standards when compared to any other diesel. This is due to soot in the oil which is an engines number one enemy and acts as sand paper on the wear (bearing) surfaces of the engine. Soot levels in the 20 micron range and above are the most damaging... which is right around the area where the stock canister filters fail to protect.

I was told the military's reasoning behind this was that a canister can be cleaned and or discarded on a battle field still leaving the engine functional but a spin on can not... Personally I think thats a little drastic in the since of stupid on the military's part as spin on filters will bypass if clogged but as I said this thinking was rather wide spread at the time and was dished out on many pieces of equipment.

Another example I was given in comparison was the civilian version of the LD which had a completely different oil system using spin on filters and in turn gives many more times the number of miles / hours of life in return. Where as a LD is used up in the 30-40K mile range and have a great tendency to auto eject pistons and or rods out the side of the block due to bearing failure and on a 22:1 compression ratio engine the tick tick tick goes to a knock knock knock to a kaboom in less than a few minutes of operating under normal conditions... That little detail is what pushed me into the idea of changing my filter system out!!!

Another point of interest that I learned and was brought up in the thread... Wix (and only wix) produced a spin on conversion for the 1133 filter on LD applications... and in total irony for us was discontinued from inventory over 20 years ago and was out of production for much longer.

In mulling over the information I was given and in looking at the newer filter technologies available I decided that my best course of action would be going to a commercially available spin on type system that was ether adapted to the stock bases or was plumbed from the stock bases, though much easier to remove the base and go from the block but I did not want to sacrifice the engines oil cooling system.

In studying the idea of spin on filters I was on a crash course learning curve... Full flow... Bypass... Micron ratings... Flow capacities... Pressures ratings... EEEeeekkkk... Here is the deal... All primary oil filters are full flow design, meaning that oil goes in and out at the rate it is pumped into the filter. Bypass filters are identical to full flow filters, some go to 5 micron but the functional difference is in the filters mounting base. All filters intake oil from the outside of the cartridge and return it into the engine from the center threaded hole of the filter. In any filter size if the flow and pressure are exceeded the filters ability to function your micron rating begins to drop... So on a bypass filter base this center hole is reduced in size to about 1/8th of an inch slowing oil flow through the filter and allowing the filter to collect more contaminants from the oil as it passes through. Bypass filters can be added to just about any engines oil system but when you are talking a 5 gallon system with horrible primary filtering capabilities your kinda wasting your time on that little .125 dia hole to make a dent in the over all health of your oil system.

Looking at commercial style filters in the size range needed for a Deuce none are of "anti back flow" design so I would still have 0 psi start issues... Something I felt was more prevalent was the filters upside down orientation which allows trash and sediment flow back into the oil pan after shut down and the shoved right back into the oil system upon start up... (something that is always skipped over on this topic) so I decided to fore go the idea of adapting spin on filters to the stock bases and look into remote mounted filters. In doing so I would reduce starting pressurization time and keep the crap in the filters actually IN the filter body.

This brought up another bit of irony to my search... No one produces a remote filter mounting base large enough for the oil systems requirements... Or if they do... I can not find it... You can buy remote filter bases all day long for Ford, Chevy and whomever else on the automotive market but nothing on the trucking market unless you go to a high dollar set up specifically designed and tailored to large trucks... Usually in the price range of $500+ and you are still left to your own devices for "how to" on plumbing it in (which is 90% of the work on a LD). There are some hydraulic filter bases that would meet the requirements but most have bypass valves installed in them or are not designed to use anything resembling a commercial sized "standard" oil filter part number in a low enough micron rating... Slightly annoying!!!

What I have opted to do in considering the above and looking at all of the options (with price being the driving factor) is go with a Wix PN 1970 which is a very common commercial truck and heavy equipment oil filter part number. The other nice detail is that this filter is also produced in paper, cramatic, and hybrid high mileage versions using the newer "spin flow" technology which filter in the 5 micron range giving a full flow system the same filtering abilities as a bypass system all in the same package. The choice is do I want to spend $45 on the high mileage or $14 on the standard jobber... My choice will be the high mileage but I think you see my point in having options and being able to find an oil filter without having to special order something in.

As for the base... Since I have not been able to find a spin on base that will take a filter in 1-1/8, 1-1/4, 1-3/8, 1-1/2, 1-3/4 or a 2" thread (all of the common commercial oil filter sizes) I opted for modifying a Wix bypass filter base into a full flow base that accepts 1-1/8th X16 thread filters allowing me to use the 1970 spin on number... It was the minimal amount of work and the least costly in parts to buy but giving the best of all available technologies in filtration.

As Kenny pointed out in the thread I have yet to mount these things up... At the moment I have to be patient in doing so until I get the other 5000 add on's in place on the truck and find out what fits where. In studying the oil housing and respecting the stock bypass valves the plumbing job is a little tricky but do'able with a little red neck + welder + hacksaw technology... I have / know several different methods for plumbing but I don't know which will work best for line routing and so on... But in no way will I compromise the cooler and or bypass system in place, when the set up is done I will post pics, facts, figures, methods, etc...

When I am done with that I may look into add on a pre oilier type system as shown on the EBay auction... Its a great idea to adding life to an engine but is also easy enough to build out of a 24 volt solenoid, relay, some lines, and a tank which could be a of suitable and much more reasonable size.

We all love to speculate and we all love to debate these ideas but it always seems we go off of "so and so" and "Joe blows" opinion about oil systems and seem to forget that all one really needs to do is ask the right questions to the right people... Herc, Wix, Baldwin, etc in this case and we will get answers that are less opinion and more fact. The crappy fact is that we have a great truck designed with a engine that is made to puke its guts after a very dependable but short life span... In all of the mods that we come up with and build into our toys one of the most important and most critical revolves around the oil system and as many have debated the pros and cons of the idea it turns out it is far more critical that anyone would have expected.
 

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Recovry4x4

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

Great read Mike. I must admit, I never thought about the drain back and all the crud that it takes with it back into the pan. With that said, I'm sold on the remote mounts. Now I understand the military request for the cannister filters but don't place all the blame on the military, after all, did they request them to be mounted upside down? I would retain them if they are mounted correctly but now I'm considering the remotes seriously. All the crud previously filtered and drained back is what sold me.
 

clinto

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

I'm with Kenny, up until now, I had planned on staying with my stock setup. But Devilman's write up is very well thought out and very convincing.

Guess I'll be doing the swap, as I'd rather swap filter setups than swap a Multifuel…. rofl
 

rmgill

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RE: Re: RE: Check valve for oil filters?

Are the current mounts removable from the engine? Would it be as simple as remote mounting them and adding some hoses?
 

devilman96

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Yeah the whole assy unbolts right off of the side... Acts as part of the lifter covers... You would have to hunt down some civilian parts to remove it and or make some adapters up plus you loose your oil cooler in the process. It also houses one or two of the relief valves for the system so you would have to acquire the information on their exact functions and more importantly how to make the system function correctly afterwards...

The pic below is a good example of a stripped down oil system but is on a High HP pulling tractor... Functional yes, but I am not so sure it would be drivable as such.
 

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rmgill

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Mount the Oil Cooler and Filter housing remotely on the left side of the hood (where to put the heater then...).

Almost seems like a one way flow valve would be the best thing to install in the supply side of the filter housings.
 
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